How Much hp can the stock drive train take

[Mako]

For my vette then I would just stick with the 10bolt. I am going to make the car a hot rod with some modern touches to it. Once I get her moving I will be taking it out to the strip to enjoy it. I will be practically be replacing the whole suspension and I would rather just put in stuff that will hack the torque and then some along with the necessary components so that I can run it at the strip. The 10 bolt would be all I need.

Ok, define "10 bolt".

There are two different 10 bolt setups iirc. The 4th gen F-body get 's the original, spec'd for Vega's wimpy 10 bolt R&P setup. They grenade like pop corn on a M6 car with slicks, auto's soften the hit enough that they live much longer. I blew up two of the wimpy R&Ps before installing a Strange 12 bolt axle.

There is a larger diameter gear 10 bolt setup as well, it's a truck application I think. Call Tom's up and ask. The Tom's setup has got to be the beefier of the two.

That said, if your running a Muncie and phat slicks, get the 12 bolt. For a 'glide car, the 10 bolt is likely to be fine.

FWIW: the entire 12 bolt axle assembly, including gears, ABS sensor, axles etc., from Moser or Strange for a 4th gen (torque arm) F-body costs about the same as just the 12 bolt 3rd member from Tom's, yipe!

CYa!
Mako

 

[Glensgages]

I believe there were a FEW '10-bolt' rear-ends offered by GM. In the early '70s, some had a 8.20" diameter ring gear 10-bolt (a friend runs 12.50s with this type rear end in a Chevelle); this may have been the 'standard rear housing' of the ear. The 'H-D' 10-bolt is 8.5" diametter ring gear, which came in '70 1/2-'81 F-bodies (my '79 Z28 runs 12.70s w/ slicks & 8" converter thru this type rear-end, and has had NO problems!), and possibly other chassis, too. I never paid attention to '82-up F-cars, but I 'think' they had an 8" diameter ring gear. Maybe that has confused EVERYBODY!!!

 

[sscam69]

Thanks for the input Mako.

You answered my questions

 

[Mako]

Thanks for the input Mako.

You answered my questions

Your welcome sscam69. Glensgages's answer is very good too, I didn't know the #'s on the other 10 bolt style gears before, tnx!

iirc, the ring gear in the Vega/4th gen F-body 10 bolt is ~7 7/8" in diameter, pathetic and far too small to take shock loads for the M6 cars.


CYa!
Mako

 

[Glensgages]

I checked-out www.dragvette.com , in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. He says he goes 10.80s in his Vette, and a few pieces look very interesting for C3s at the strip. I didn't even think to include the 'Vega' 10-bolts in my earlier post, nor the Gen IV F-bodies (no dis-respect). I don't know of ANYBODY who would consider a 7.5" ring gear an 'upgrade', altho several F-bodies run WELL into the 12s, or quicker. My '82 Corvette has the 'beefy' Dana 44, I think; put two big guys in it, with NO traction or power increase, and "ZING", or so I'm told. I hope to 'see' just how much punishment this rear-end can, or can't, take.

 

[WayneLBurnham]

FWIW: the entire 12 bolt axle assembly, including gears, ABS sensor, axles etc., from Moser or Strange for a 4th gen (torque arm) F-body costs about the same as just the 12 bolt 3rd member from Tom's, yipe!

CYa!
Mako

Mako makes a very important point to remember:

A bullet proofed conventional solid axle rearend (like the standard of the day: a Ford 9" in a nodular iron case with 41 spline axles - available from Moser or Strange for about $2,00-2,500), capable of staggering abuse, is far cheaper even with all the necessary surgery to install it, than even the main parts of such a "made as strong as it can be made" IRS system from Tom's - which is still nowhere as strong by any means. Don't forget besides the $2300 for the pumpkin you need that much MORE for the "1480" axle kit!!!

The only reason for going to that extreme is if you are determined to keep the absolute best handling only possible with IRS systems. Mainly straight-line use doesn't need it, but where a Camaro does not even begin to compare to a Corvette is on a nice irregular path, especially at speed.

If drags, stoplight-to-stoplight hits and straight highway use at modest speeds are the main uses you'll put yours too and you aren't trying to stay up with Porsches, Jags and other road car designs of the period (or modern versions of those designs, Vettes and Vipers today, if you add lots of power and other upgrades) then you are much better off putting that $5,000 for rear end parts into $2,500 for those parts and the balance into engine guts.

I kinda want everything and can wait for more money to make itself found to pay for the difference. The one thing that does not interest me that much is all out drag capability - I hate the shock that puts on any driveline and only enjoy the "30 punch" type use without being afraid I'm destroying something.