How much should machine work cost?

[saopm]

How much should machine work cost?

Deck the block (Its not the original block)
Line Hone Mains
Hone Cylinders
Grind Crank – Mains and Rods

 

[Dave65]

How much should machine work cost?

Deck the block (Its not the original block)
Line Hone Mains
Hone Cylinders
Grind Crank – Mains and Rods

For a reference this is where I had mine done.

http://www.besracing.com/services.html

Dave

 

[allcoupedup]

I can tell you what I paid in a Chicago subarb. You're going to get a wide range of prices. Some of the variability is due to location - middle of nowhere vs. urban and some will be due to the quality of service - a small shop jobber vs. a shop that does specialized race work.

Clean block/freeze plugs/cam bearings - $220
Bore and hone with deck plate - $290
Grind Crankshaft - $150
Drill and tap crank snout - $30
Press fit rods to pistons - $105
Balance crank/rods/pistons - $260
Flywheel resurface - $42

I was expecting excellent service and got mediocre service at best so I feel the prices I paid were high. I had to spend another $100 to rework some of the stuff above - at a different shop. Plus - my flywheel grind was too smooth and cost me a clutch/pressure plate, another regrind, and hours and hours of wasted time.

Shop around, tour the shops, and be very direct and up front with the shop guys as to what you expect. The shop I chose did all kinds of race engines for big $$ so I got treated like a small fish in a big pond. My stuff was late and half-assed - probably had the apprentices do it all.

Brian

 

[67l36driver]

Clean block/freeze plugs/cam bearings - $220
Bore and hone with deck plate - $290
Grind Crankshaft - $150
Drill and tap crank snout - $30
Press fit rods to pistons - $105
Balance crank/rods/pistons - $260
Flywheel resurface - $42

Out here in farm country, shop costs run about half of above.

 

[allcoupedup]

How much should machine work cost?

Deck the block (Its not the original block)
Line Hone Mains
Hone Cylinders
Grind Crank – Mains and Rods

Suggestion: be sure to measure your piston/deck clearance and your combustion chamber volume on the heads before decking and or milling the heads. I say this because I have seen guys deck their block only to find out they can no longer use their pistons or heads because the new compression ratio would be too high.

Most stock rebuilds do not need decking and do not let your machine shop guy do it because he "does it on all rebuilds". My deck was .010 higher on one side than the other from the factory. If I was building a race engine, I would have fixed this via decking. Instead, I used a composition head gasket that was .010 thinner than the .039 I used on the other side.

Brian