Hydroboost Install

[MaineShark]

I'll be installing a Hydratech hydraulic brake booster kit over the next few days, and reporting on the progress in this thread.

The package from Hydratech is due in tomorrow, so I figured I'd get started with the disassembly.

As everyone says, the very first step is to inspect the whole power steering and braking system, since everything needs to be in good shape.

First step was removing the seat. Technically, this is not necessary. Technically, you could decide to fill your brake lines with water. Technically, a lot of things are possible. Some are less recommended than others. Don't even attempt this with the seat in place. I know, from working on the wiring under the dash, just how difficult working around the seat can be. Excrutiatingly painful would be another way of saying it (and I don't use Novacaine at the dentist, or even think that getting my teeth drilled is more than "uncomfortable," so if I say that something is painful, I really mean it).

Removing the seat is a piece of cake. Four bolts. Slide the seat back, flip up the carpet at each corner, and remove the front two bolts. Slide the seat forward, same deal for the rear two bolts. Fold it forward, and pull it out. If you can't handle that part of the job, stop right now and have a professional do the rest of the install - you don't want to be working on a brake system...

Next step is the steering column. Again, this is not technically required. But it will make your life so much easier. Insert the key to unlock the column, centering the wheels, then remove the key and tap the wheel slightly to one side to trigger the lock. That will keep the internal parts aligned correctly. Disconnect the battery. If you're smart, you'll use this chance to install a switch on the battery hot lead (Ecklers sells them, as do many other vendors - just get one designed for side-terminal batteries). The switch makes life so much easier, especially when you're trying to align the bolt with the terminal, and you leave the switch in the "off" position so you don't have to deal with arcing.

The column is fairly simple. There's a panel on the underside of the dash, below where the column goes through. It's held on by a few screws (probably varies by year). Remove it, being careful of the headlight vacuum over-ride switch. Locate the spot where the column goes through the firewall, and the two bolts that mount the plate (one to either side). Remove te nuts from those bolts.

Now, pop the hood and look at the firewall, where the column comes through. You should see a plate on the firewall, that was connected to the nuts you just removed. One of the bolts is welded to the plate - the other is loose. Remove the loose bolt, then pull the plate away from the column. Mine had some wires attached, so I just swung it down and out of the way, hanging on the wires.

Next, locate the steering box and rag joint. Just behind the rag joint is where the column attaches. There is a clamp with a 12-point bolt (just in case anyone is unaware, 12-point bolts don't require any special tool - just a ratchet and an ordinary 12-point socket). Now, because you aligned the wheels straight forward, there's a good chance this won't be pointing straight up. Mine was pointing toward the fender (that might always be the case, or it might vary by year - I don't want to make any promises). You can ratchet it off with a little bit of time and effort, or do it nice and quick with an air ratchet, if you have one.

With the column disconnected from the steering, it's time to slide under the dash again. This is the last bit. If you haven't already done so (and your car has this part - some may not), remove the A/C duct. Gentle but firm pressure to the side should allw you to pull the inboard end down and away from the rest of the ductwork, then you can pivot it down and rotate it aft to remove it from the vent (this will make sense if you get under there and look).

After the duct is out of the way (or if you didn't have it to begin with), remove the two bolts that hold the column to the dash. They should be pretty obvious. The column will drop a few inches, but it doesn't weigh much. With it down a bit, you should be able to disconnect the wiring. There should be a long, narrow connector on one side, a connector on the dimmer switch, two on the ignition switch, and one small one (I think it's for cruise control, so your car might not have it)(this one is easy to miss, to be careful). With the two connectors on the ignition switch, chances are that one has to be removed before the other (the one closer to the firewall had to come off first, on mine).

Verify that all wiring is disconnected, watch you don't snag any new wires or vacuum lines, and begin to pull the column toward you (if you have tilt, it may make things eaiser to adjust it so the column is straight, before you start moving it). There is a rubber boot that helps seal the column to the firewall, and you may need to coax it a bit to separate it from the column. You also need to be aware of the orientation of the mounting plate, with respect to the brake pedal shaft and the various wires. This is where having the tilt centered is helpful - it's much easier to rotate the whole assembly when it is straight instead of bent.

With a little bit of care, you should have spent about and hour, and have the seat and column sitting on the floor of your garage (or someplace safe).

Be careful not to move the steering components on the car, or you'll have to re-adjust everything to get the wheel straight. This is why I recommended straightening the wheel at the start, rather than rotating it for easier access to the 12-point: if you have to re-adjust, it will be easier to measure from the frame to the brake disk on each side, and adjust to have them equal, than it would be to get the wheels and column aligned by trial-and-error.

More on the actual install, tomorrow...

Joe

 

[matchframe]

Thanks for documenting this for us Joe. I for sure will be doing this as a mod before I am done with my project.

Thanks for being as detailed in description as you do!

Bill

 

[MaineShark]

Next installment:

Remove the vacuum booster. Start by disconnecting the vacuum line. That was the easy part. Everything is downhill from here (sort of). You need to remove the four nuts that hold the booster to the firewall, which sounds simple enough, but will take a bit of work. A deepwell socket, a swivel, and a lot of extensions (I used two 3" extensions and a 6" extension, giving me a variety of possible lengths, to fit the individual position) will make this go easier. I made the mistake of not using the swivel for the removal, and I wouldn't recommend that anyone else make the same mistake.

I'm not sure about other cars, but one of the studs on mine actually had two nuts. The first held a clip that retained part of the wiring harness (remove this one first, if you have it - being able to move the wiring around makes getting at the other bolts easier), and the second held the booster to the firewall. I didn't realize this, at first, and wondered why the booster would not pull free from the firewall, until I looked again, and saw the one remaining bolt. If you have this setup, make sure you save one of the nuts, so you can re-install that wiring clip.

Once the nuts are off, use a screwdriver to pop the clip that holds the clevis pin, and slide the pin out. Now you can pry the booster loose from the firewall. Remove any scraps of gasket from the firewall.

The clevis won't come off my vacuum booster (I think it may be a non-standard booster), so I'm departing from the recommended assembly procedure. Normally, the clevis is installed on the booster, before the booster is installed in the car, but I'm going to install the clevis from under the dash. I'll let you guys know if I run into any snags because of this.

Today, the first thing I did was to install the booster, itself. I simply lined it up with the holes in the firewall, pushed it in as far as I could get it, by hand, then a couple taps with a rubber mallet sent it the rest of the way. I climbed back under the dash and installed the nuts. No trouble at all, especially considering that I didn't have to mess around with getting the clevis aligned with the brake pedal. We'll see whether I end up paying for this with extra work under the dash, when I finally get a new clevis.

I'm not going to discuss the hoses much, since they are pretty simple, and I'm installing a cooler, which changes the routing. If there is any interest in a description of this, I can go into more detail.

The master cylinder came next. Even though I wasn't having any problems with it, I decided to replace my master cylinder, as a "while I'm at it" sort of thing. I ordered a new Wagner cylinder from Paul (Hydratech) with my booster order, so the first step was the bench bleed it. I got a simple "universal bench bleeding kit" thing from Napa, and used that. It didn't do a great job (it leaked air slightly, so it took forever to get the cylinder bled), but it served its purpose. The cylinder came with a baggie full of plugs, so I chose the correct ones and installed them in the cylinder as soon as I took the bleeder off, to minimize leakage. I also installed the cover, obviously.

Back in the garage, I slipped the cylinder over the studs on the booster, and proceeded to attach the brake lines. Let me say that this was not an easy task. Either the booster of the cylinder is slightly different in dimension, and my lines ended up about 1/4" back and down from the fittings on the master. With some rather firm application of force to the lines, I got them attached, then added the nuts to the studs and tightened the cylinder to the booster. If anyone else runs into this sort of problem, I found that the best way to pull the line into position was to wrap a string around it, behind the fitting, then tie the other ends of the string to a wrench, forming a "T" handle. By rolling the wrench, I was able to take up the right amount of slack to place one end of the wrench against the top of the master, where I could then lift the other end to form a lever and pull the line forward and up.

And that's basically where I'm at, right now. I need to install the clevis, finish attaching the lines, make the final adjustments to the pedal height and brake light switch, then re-install the column and I'm ready to fill with fluid.

Joe

 

[MaineShark]

Okay, I couldn't do much today, since I was busy with other stuff, but I did pull the vacuum line off the carb.

Start by using a pair of pliers to squeeze and remove the spring clip that holds the hose leading to the filter onto the metal line. Then unscrew the line from the base of the carb. In my case, the line (flare fitting) was screwed into a flare-to-NPT adapter, and the adapter was then screwed into the carb. I removed the line from the adapter with a wrench, and the adapter from the carb with a ratchet and socket. A quick trip to the hardware store to purchase a 1/4" NPT bronze plug, a quick wrap of Teflon tape, a couple tunrs with a wrench, and the vacuum port was plugged.

I have a few questions for Paul that he obviously can't answer right now, what with the blackout. As soon as I hear back from him, I'll be able to finish everything except that brake pedal clevis, which I'm still searching for.

Joe

 

[MaineShark]

Time for an update. I've been extremely busy, so I haven't been able to do much, but here's what did happen:

Paul was able to track down a new clevis for me. I would have had it today (Friday), but UPS had some trouble, so it won't get here until Monday.

I got all the lines connected. Some people have suggested that the lines should be attached to the booster, prior to installation. I don't agree. I tried it that way, and it made the job much more complicated. I ended up having to disconnect the lines to route them correctly, anyway. It would have been much easier to install the booster alone, then attach the lines. Yeah, it's annoying to work on the underside of the booster, but not as annoying as trying to install the booster and route the lines at the same time.

I ran the two braided lines forward from the booster, through the "V" of the power steering pump bracket, and then connected them. I had to unscrew the control valve connection slightly in order for it to line up correctly, but Paul assures me it's no problem, even with significant gaps. And, after all, the most you could possibly need to unscrew the connection to change the angle is less than one full turn, so you shouldn't be running a significant gap, anyway.

The booster return line splices into the return line from the control valve to the pump, normally. I'm running a cooler, so the return line from the control valve and the one from the booster both connect to the Tee fitting, but the line on the third side goes forward to the cooler. The other end of the cooler connects back to the pump return fitting. This is the routing that Paul recommends, and I agree. If anyone wants more details on this, or pictures of the cooler installation, email me.

Getting very close, now.

Joe

 

[69MyWay]

When I was building my car, there was no hydraboost, or steeroids. So, I put all new stock stuff on there.

I regret it a bit now, because the stock stuff works too well to remove it just because I can.

I am anxious to hear your feedback on the hydraboost.

 

[MaineShark]

Another small update:

After some UPS-related delays, the clevis finally arrived today. All I gotta say is, if this is stock, then my previous vacuum booster was definitely far from stock.

Anyway, the clevis went in easily, despite my "backwards" way of doing it. I simply slid under the dash, put the clevis over the brake pedal rod, then maneuvered it into alignment with the threaded rod from the booster. The rod is on a ball joint, so it is fairly easy to get them aligned correctly. Took me two or three tries to get the thread started without cross-threading it, then it was simply a matter of turning the 7/16 hex on the threaded rod to move the clevis back into proper alignment with the hole in the brake pedal rod. It will ahve to thread on quite a bit, if your car is anything like mine, so just be patient and keep checking the alignment.

Once you get the clevis in position, the fun begins. Try to make sure the clevis hole is as close to centered on the pedal rod hole as possible, and then start working the pivot pin into place. It helps to jiggle the brake pedal slightly as you push the pin into the hole. Once it's in place, attach the retaining clip.

I was worried about doing the clevis this way, but I found that putting the pin and retaining clip in place was 10x more difficult than getting the clevis in.

Tomorrow, I'll get everything adjusted, then re-install the steering column and associated hardware. I had to remove the column mounting bracket in order to do some custom wiring for my electric fans, so I may have to re-align things (the four bracket bolts are each adjustable in two axes, so things might get a little mis-aligned). That won't be an issue for anyone doing a normal install, since the bracket would stay in the car.

After that, I just need to put some zip-ties and retaining clips on the cooler lines, where they run under the forward frame crossmember, and the install will be done.

Unfortunately, the car is not yet re-assembled, so road-testing will have to wait a bit...

Joe

 

[MaineShark]

Yet another small update.

The column is back in the car. All that remains is securing the cooler lines.

I spoke with Paul for a bit, today, regarding the proper brake pedal height. I was curious about the reason why the instructions say to move the pedal 1/2" closer to the firewall. His response was basically that the greater assist* applied by the hydraulic booster makes the brakes react sooner within the pedal's travel, so there is a subjective feel that the pedal is "higher." Essentially, by adjusting the pedal height, you make it so that the relationship between braking force and pedal height is closer to stock. Of course, moving the pedal doesn't change the number of inches that your foot has to move in order to achieve the same braking, but it does mean that your foot will be in a position, relative to the firewall, which is closer to stock.

So, for anyone like me who has to know "why?" on everything, that's why. I also tend to drive with both feet (left on brake, right on gas - one of the advantages of an auto trans), so it didn't exactly take twisting my arm to convince me to move the pedal down into a more comfortable position. Should eliminate some leg cramping

You also need to adjust the brake pedal switches. The lower one is electrical, and the upper one is vacuum. At least, if your car is like my '79, you have two. In any case, just firmly push the switch towards the pedal, until it rests against it.

Some brief points about the column install:

For the most part, this is an "installation is the reverse of removal" sort of deal, but you need to be careful of the order in which you do things.

Start by getting the column into the car. Then carefully work it past all the wires, until you can slide the splined end through the opening in the firewall. Don't worry about getting it into the coupler, just yet.

With the column in place (front to back), but sitting on the floor, re-connect all the electrical connectors. The headlight dimmer connector was tight (not much wire, to reach the column all the way on the floor, but it did reach). Next, step outside the car and close the door (with the window open, obviously). Pull the column back a little bit (and inch is all that's needed), and lift on the steering wheel. The steering lock should still be engaged, since you haven't re-inserted the key yet. I was able to reach through the window and around into the engine compartment at the same time, so I didn't need a helper. If your arms aren't long enough, get someone to assist you. What you need to do is use your left hand (in the engine compartment) to guide the splined end of the column into the coupling on the rag joint, while you use your right hand to lift and pivot the column (the firewall acts as a fulcrum) to get the splined end into position. Then a quick push, and the splines are engaged enough to hold the position.

Now comes the tricky part (if you have a helper, ignore the majority of this). Don't let go of the steering wheel. Walk backwards along the side of the car until you can open the door. Then carefully crouch down so you can slide one of the bolts that holds the column to its bracket into place. Twist it in by hand, and breathe a sight of relief. If you were smart and had a helper, your helper could have done that, and you wouldn't have had to do the contortionist act

Get the other bolt in place, but don't tighten either. Push the column forward as much as you can, to seat it as far into the splines as possible. Then go back to the engine compartment. You need to get that mounting plate that goes on the firewall side (mine was hanging on some wires, if you recall), and move it back into place. Get the welded-fast bolt into the hole, and find some way to secure the plate temporarily. If you have a helper, you're golden. If not, I found that my flashlight was a perfect tight fit between the exhaust manifold and the other side of the plate. That provided more than enough pressure to keep the plate in place for a few minutes.

Slide under the dash and spin the nut onto that bolt. Be careful not to push forward on the bolt. Get the nut a little looser than hand tight. Now go back to the engine compartment, align the plate, and slide the loose bolt into place. Back under the dash, very carefully grasp the bolt as close to the firewall as you can, and pull gently, to keep it in its square hole in the mounting plate. Spin the nut on until it is against the column mounting "ears," and then tighten both nuts. Tighten them pretty good, to compress the gasket and force the column correctly into the splines on the coupler. Tighten the other two mounting bolts, while you're under there.

Put the key in place and release the steering lock, then hop back to the engine compartment and rotate the steering wheel until the 12-point bolt hole is in a convenient place. I found that aiming it about 45 degrees off vertical (sort of towards the carb) was good, allowing me to get my air ratchet in there without interference from the hydraulic lines. If you don't have an air ratchet, you're probably going to be a bit unhappy with this part, but it won't be horribly.

Re-install the trim plate and the A/C duct, and all that's needed is some fluid and to bleed the lines, and you're done. I know Paul has been reading this thread, and he said that there would be some changes to the bleeding instructions, so I'm going to invite him to chime in here if he'd like. If not, y'all will just have to wait a few weeks until I get the cooling system re-assembled, so I can start the engine again.

All-in-all, I'd rate this a "4-6" difficulty level, depending on your car. 4 means your car is correct, with no oddities. 6 means your car is mine, with some freaky aftermarket brake booster with a non-removable clevis, and you also decided to install a cooler while you were at it.

Joe

*for anyone wondering why the hydraulic booster can offer greater assist, think of it this way: the assist is dependant on an energy source. In the stock system, the differential pressure between atmospheric and engine vacuum is used. That means a maximum possible head pressure of 14.7 psi. And, since an engine never creates a perfect vacuum, or anything close, the reality is that there is far less pressure than that as an energy source. The hydraluic system uses the power steering pump, which supplies a pressure in the hundreds of pounds per square inch (I think Paul said 200 psi or something like that). Much greater energy supply, no?