Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

I am looking for a good paint job on a tight budget.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hartvette 84
  • Start date Start date
H

Hartvette 84

Guest
Hello,
I have a red 84 that could really use another paint job. I am looking at painting it red again or black. The problem is that I am in the military and money is steady but not heavily flowing, if you know what I mean. So I would like to buy all the materials myself, and then either paint it myself (I am willing to learn) or get a professional to do it. My other option is to do "touch-ups" on a couple areas, but again I wouldn't know how to do that.
If anyone has ANY suggestions that would be great!

By the way I am stationed near Baltimore, MD.
 
Hello,

I don't want to burst your bubble or sound pessimistic but getting a paint job for our Babies doesn't come cheap. It seems like once the techs you take it to hear "Corvette", a bunch of $$$$ signs go off over their heads.

You're probably looking around $3000-$4000 for a good paint job. Depending on where the problem is and how bad it is, you could do touch ups.
 
Hi,

Although I don't know any paint shops in Baltimore, I do know that keeping the color the same is going to be a whole lot cheaper than changing colors. That's when the $$ really start adding up!

I'd ask around, especially of Corvette owners, and check out a number of places in your area. We've had a couple of Corvettes repainted (in the original colors), and we paid $5,000!! Don't let that scare you, however...shop around and ask the shops for names of former customers.

Good luck!

Elaine
 
Wow, I just sat here and typed a long response telling you how I painted mine a couple of years ago in my garage. Then I hit the wrong key and lost it all.

So this time, I'll abbreviate it. This subject will probably get you a lot of different responses, just like "which spark plug is best" and "which motor oil is best".

I went with the DuPont system, base coat/clear coat, because GM shoots all Vettes using Dupont. Why re-invent the wheel.

Read all you can get your hands on first. EXACTLY follow the directions on both the materials and the gun. I used a HVLP to minimize over-spray and save materials.

I'd never painted a car before and my job turned out much better than a buddy's 85 job that he paid big $ to have painted.

So unless you want a show car or a factory like paint job, do it yourself. You'll be absolutely amazed at how well it will look.

Just be sure to use materials formulated to work with each other, certain primer/fillers are specifically formulated to work with certain base and certain clears. Don't mix 'em up; use a system.

Be sure to get reducer designed for the temps you'll be seeing. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS TO THE LETTER ESPECIALLY REGARDING FLASH/DRY TIMES AND PAPER GRITS. Shooting's easy, it's wet sanding that separates the men from the boys.

If you want any specifics, email me and I'll fill you in on how I did mine. In fact, my Vette turned out so well, I painted my Suzuki GSX 1100 this past Oct. This time I used DuPont's ChromaLusion (changes colors depending on how the light hits it). High dollar stuff, but looks great.

Hope this helps.

Jake
 
If I were you I wouldn't change the color.

Painting under the hood and doing the jams is really where alot of the money is spent via massive masking and detail work.

If your simply wanting a fresh paint job (Like what I did) stay with the red. You can alter the shade a bit and the jams will still look ok or you can stick with stock red and have them match perfect.

In Canadian dollars from probably one of the best body shops in the city I paid 2200$ for a sand down and 2 paint and 3 clear paint job. Looks great and is a quality job.

Ive actually have a various body men comment of the job so naturally Im exstatic.

Go find a good professional body job with a good staff (Not one who will take you for the "Corvette Ride") and get a quote for a scuff and splash.

Also around here paint job are guaranteed for life. If it fades its coverd if it chips due to their work, covered. However if you old paint job is flakey and it chips off from underneath its your problem. (Of course)

Good Luck hope to see pictures.
 
Hart,
If I was you, I wouldn't paint it myself unless you have a lot
of time to do the research and a place to do the job. I think
it must be enclosed with an exhaust system so that you can breathe, but the fresh paint is not exposed to the elements.

Shops:
1). Try Sport Chevrolet which is in Burtonsville. I think you don't need to sand down to the fiberglass, just need to go over the old
stuff. This is the shop where I had mine done when my plant
over sprayed the car.

2). You could try Macco if you are REALLY on a budget and the
paint is shot. In 1996 I paid $750 for a down-to-the metal job.
Paint was fading 5 years later, but I should have used a better
wax on it.

What ever you do, wait to wax for several months after the new
paint and then, wax with Zaino or Meguire's twice per year at
least.
 
My first question is, do you need paint or not? How bad does it look? Sometimes a good polish will bring the paint back... even a wet-sand, compound, polish, wax may do it... So the first question I have is, is the paint just faded, or is it bad enough to need a new paint job?
 
Thank you all very much for your replies. They are are most helpfull. As far as the condition its in: there is a 2 inch chip on the hood (pretty bad), several paint bubbles on left quarter panel, many other areas that would need to be sanded, and the left quarter panel is very dim...like it was washed with a course sponge.
I like the Macco idea best so far.

Thankx again
 
I forgot to mention these points.

The total cost of all the materials for painting my Vette was about $650.00. That even includes the wax.

Two things that make or break a paint job are:

Surface preparation BEFORE the base/clear goes on and

The quality of the products you use.

When prepping, go over the entire car with your bare hand. Any imperfection you feel or see will be there after you paint. That's why many painters shoot a mist coat in contrasting colored primer so that all these high/low spots and other surface blemishes stand out and can be corrected.

Use only quality products, not O'Reilly's $29.95 a gallon enamel. Quality paint runs two to three times that amount a QUART. For example, the DuPont ChromaLusion I used on my GSX 1100 costs $458.00 a PINT!

The actual shooting is the easiest part and, depending on the system you choose to go with, can be done in an afternoon. Some systems, though, require the primer/surfacer or primer/sealer to set up overnight meaning you'd shoot the base and clear the next day.

Some self-confidence, a few days and following the directions on the cans is all you need.

Just my thoughts.

Jake
 
I have been thinking about painting my own car. With the supplies around $700 or so I cant see spending $4K on labor.

Im going to get some quotes around my way later this year.
 
Just strip and dissassemble the car your self and you will save a bunch!

For my own edification, what about the 1985 White color, it is enamel I think and the newer whites have a clearcoat dont they?
 
LD85 said:
Just strip and dissassemble the car your self and you will save a bunch!

For my own edification, what about the 1985 White color, it is enamel I think and the newer whites have a clearcoat dont they?

My ex-brother-in-law shoots for Ford at their plant in Chicago; has been for about 25 years or so. He told me Ford shoots enamel - but that was some years ago so I don't know if they still do or not.

I don't keep up with that sort of stuff but if memory serves, Vettes were never shot with enamel; either lacquer - base/clear. Some of you paint gurus can chime in and correct me if I missed the mark on this.

I shot my car using a Chrysler color, but it was a DuPont base/clear too.

Jake
 
LD85 said:
Just strip and dissassemble the car your self and you will save a bunch!

For my own edification, what about the 1985 White color, it is enamel I think and the newer whites have a clearcoat dont they?


Do you mean disassemble the molding & strip the clear coat myself?
 
From what I read from the literature I tracked down from DuPont, if the car has original paint only ( that is, this won't be the third paint job) there's no need to strip it.

Remove all the old wax and silicone (extremely important) before you sand. Then sand, wipe down several times, tack and shoot the primer/surfacer.

Some of the info you need can be picked up at any DuPont paint store - I went to FinishMaters - and some add'l info is on their website.

Also, DuPont system doesn't require flex agent either. The presence of flex agent is the main reason some noses/tails look so different from the rest of the finish after a couple of years.

Their system is pretty much idiot proof. Remember, they want your paint job to turn out RIGHT. It's good for their reputation so they've really tested their products.

Jake
 
Im in the same boat as this guy, I've allready started sanding. How much do you have to sand? What I mean is there areblack spots showing where I think Im down to fiberglass. I don't want to sand too much.
 
Hartvette

Oh I remember when I was in your shoes all to well.
Having a Vette that needs a paint job sucks. Even worse is having a Vette that needs a paint job, and NO money.

My problem was two-fold. Time and Money (wife).
I didn't have the time, nor did the wife want me to spend the money. When your getting quotes for 5-6 grand, it's enough to make you throw up.

I finally called Maaco.

With some body work, and a 3-stage Pearl paint job, one week later, my Vette looks great, and I couldn't be happier.
All for 1800.00 (Body work: 600, Painting 1200)
Their prices are even cheaper for single stage painting.
Less than a 1000 I think.

So, unless you decide to paint the car yourself,
Maaco's a very good low cost alternative. At least IMHO.

I wouldn't hesitate to take it back, for that kind of money, you can afford to get it repainted every 5 - 6 years.
(I'm just now starting to "work" the wife about painting it Black)
So, in a couple more years...........

Good Luck
 
tntcorvette said:
Do you mean disassemble the molding & strip the clear coat myself?

I mean take off the door panels, trim, head light and tail light lenses etc and sand it down to get it ready to paint. Then the paint shop can prep it, then paint it and you can put it back together
 
Corvette Craig

Yea I think Maaco sounds like the best idea.
Do you how the single stage painting would
look, would it last?

thankx
 
Hartvette....

I really can't comment on on single stage paint job but,
the 3-stage pearl paint job they for me, turned out to be quite acceptable.

I would rest assured though, these people are in the business of painting cars, and they do stand behind their work.

For the cost, I really don't think you can beat it, unless you do it yourself.

Good Luck.
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom