I created a larger Callaway logo

[Brangeta]

Since I didn't have any replies in my other topic... :ugh ... I decided to create the logo from a smaller version in Adobe Illustrator. So that's what I did -- I traced it. I don't intend to violate any copyright laws or anything, but if anyone would like to use it for anything, feel free to. I tried to get it as accurate as possible, but I'm not exactly an Illustrator expert. There is a noticable flaw on the A's, and if you look closely, I'm sure you could find flaws with the Y.

 

[critt99]

Brangeta, thanx for the work. This will come in handy with the models.
BTW: tell me about your model ideas I might be able to assist...mike

 

[Brangeta]

Hey critt, I don't know how much you dabble in graphic design stuff, but if you need the EPS version of my Callaway logo (uncompressed vector artwork -- completely resizable without quality loss) let me know. I could also invert it into a windshield banner for the model if needed.

I ordered a dealer promotional model (already built) of a '93 Camaro by Ertl that should be showing up anyday now. I plan on cutting the improper panels off and creating new ones out of epoxy putty or perhaps sculpey. I don't really plan on doing any casting or even plan on considering weight issues (from not using hollow pieces), so we'll see where this leads me.

One thing that concerns me is that Callaway has a picture of a C8 with the Callaway panels exploded off of it... and they apparently change the lower door panel from the Camaro. I never knew this, and not sure what exactly it changes...

I'm not quite sure what I am going to use for wheels either... the stock Camaro Z28 wheels will be really noticable.

 

[critt99]

Avoid the epoxy putty and just use plain old autobody filler it sands, carvs and cut very nicely. You trim it while it is firm but not hard to a close "rough" shape and finish from there...believe me it is easier...I have tried them all. You need to becareful though and not break the weak bond with the metal before it hardens. There is a chemical bond with the material later in the hardening stage.

 

[Dirtfarmer]

This may be after the fact, but check out this site.

http://www.sharkshock.com/fonts/fontsaut.html

There's a Corvette font at the bottom of the page that might have cleaner lines. I've never used this paticular site, but have used font downloads from other sites. Just download the zip file and add the font into your computers font files. You will be able to use the corvette font in your word processor and art/drawing programs.

 

[Brangeta]

Thanks dirtfarmer; I actually spent most of the night looking for similar fonts. Never came across that site though, so thanks!

 

[Dirtfarmer]

I didn't open the file to see if it matched what you had done. Let me know if it works for you.

 

[Brangeta]

A few of the letters are similar, but nothing is close to exact. My logo I made is about 99% accurate, so it's a better choice in my opinion.

By the way...
--Critt-- When you say body filler, do you mean Bondo? We aren't on TV giving a product plug, so you can tell me the brand .

Also, I just got the Camaro model in the mail. It seems like it is going to work very well for the job, even though it seems like I am going to have to fabricate most of the bodywork by hand. I definitely can't reuse the front or rear bumpers in the slightest. I don't know what to do about the wheels either... they don't seem detachable. I'm not used to building or taking apart models, so maybe there is a way to get them off I don't know about...

 

[critt99]

I prefer 3M litefiller you can get it at NAPA. Bondo brand is crap.

 

[Brangeta]

Hmm. I'll consider it.

Can you give me a summary of it? Such as:
How much does it cost?
Do you mix it like an epoxy putty, or does it start out as a liquid?

As you might guess, I've never been in a wreck so I haven't had to do any body repair before :L