I think I broke my AC

[1984C4]

Hi guys. I have an 84 that was low on freon so I topped it off with a 30 lb. cylinder of R-12 that I have access to. I stopped pumping in the freon when the line coming from the compressor was nice and cold and the low side pressure was 40 psi with the compressor running. I drove the car for about 3 hours with the AC running the whole time on a hot humid day and it was nice and cold. All of a sudden I smelled something burning and the air from the vents got hot. I shut the AC off and when I got home I discovered that the belt smokes with the ac on and the compressor makes a gurgling sound like liquid running through a hose. I can hear the clutch click but the compressor does not move. Could it be overcharged and locked up from too much freon or did I fry my compressor? Could it just be a clutch and how could I determine that vice a seized compressor? Is it time to take it to a pro or is this something I can do myself? Help!!

 

[gmjunkie]

It's Over charged!!!! You may have Killed something!!! Clutch or Compressor!!! You may let some out, and it may be alright or maybe not!!!! Theres a reason they want every body certified now days!!!!!!!!Over charge and Break a hose and get Blasted in the Face,see how long your Eye balls Last!! Let a Professional Do it!!!! Going through Life Blind with a Dog leading you around is no Laughing matter!!

 

[G Winter]

Depending on the ambiant temp I wouldn't think 40 lbs on the low side would destroy a compressor. Was the system nearly emty when you filled it. If so you may have been low on oil and should have added a few ounces first. If you overfill, the compressor will usually make a rattling noise almost immediatly.One other thing ,the bearing may have gone out. You need special a tool to get that apart. You could try it when it cools and drop the pressure to about 30 but I am guessing the compressor is gone.If that is the case the system should be flushed befor a replacement is installed. If you do take it to a repair shop to have it repaired then R134a may be the way to go. Good luck


Glenn

 

[1984C4]

Thanks for the replies. I initially filled it to 35 psi on the low side and drove it around a few times and it just wasn't getting cool. The compressor would run and cycle but no cold air. I bumped it up to 40 based on a recommendation I got from this site and it worked great for a few hours. You may be right about the oil. I have had the car for 3 years and the AC needed a top off every year after sitting in a cold Maine garage over the winter. It always worked great. I was able to get my hands on a 30 lb cylinder so I figured I could do it myself and save the money. With all this extra freon I really don't want to convert to R-134.
Junk, I really didn't need the butt chewing. I'm a pretty handy wrench and a certified aircraft mechanic who takes safety precautions. Airplanes use aircycle cooling systems so I have never dealt with Freon. Just looking for help not criticism.

 

[gmjunkie]

Junk, I really didn't need the butt chewing. I'm a pretty handy wrench and a certified aircraft mechanic who takes safety precautions. Airplanes use aircycle cooling systems so I have never dealt with Freon. Just looking for help not criticism.

Sorry!!!!!! But I seen a Dude, Loose both his Eye's This week in the Parking Lot at a Auto Part's Store, with a Cheepo Plastic Charge Kit!!!!!! R-12,Freeze 12, and 134a will Freeze Delicate Membranes in your eyes Quickly, "Safty Glasses or Not"!!!!! Sorry,I'll just keep my Fingers off the Key Board from Now On!!!:W :W

 

[redvet]

You most likely have two things happening; the system is probably overcharged, but that is probably not the major issue. The system is probably very down on oil due to it leaking out with the refrigerant over the years. This has caused the compressor to seize (and those R4 compressors aren't the most tolerable of low oil conditions to begin with).

If it were my car, I would take it to a professional shop to have the refrigerant recovered. I would then take it home and replace the compressor with a brand new, not rebuilt unit (they are available at very reasonable prices). I would also replace the orifice tube and accumulator. I would then take it back to the shop to have an evacuation and proper (weighed in) recharge performed. I would also have the shop add the proper amont of oil to the system. The bottom line is that you simply cannot charge the system properly going by pressure gauge readings; the refrigerant must be charged into the system in the amount specified on the underhood A/C spec label. I would not retrofit the system. Keeping it R12 will give you the best possible performance.

 

[bobder41]

In addition to redvet advise. have the shop do a leak survey to find the leak in the system. Repair or replace the defective item to avoid another problem. It is cheaper to fix the problem now than blow another compressor and doing it all over again. Redvet is right about the R4 not handling a low oil system.

 

[tyrel]

I agree with redvet, the system was probably low on oil and now the compressor is basically a doorstop, all the internals are probably trashed. This is why, on aging a/c systems, it's not always a good idea to simply top it off and leave it at that, you need to discharge the system, flush the system, add oil, pull a vacuum, and then recharge.

 

[1984C4]

Thanks guys. Junk, sorry about the curt reply. Your advice is proper and appreciated. I guess I'm just tired of things going wrong everytime I use this car. It only has 33k miles on it and although it is 22 years old now it should still work albeit some shrunken seals from age. I think everyone here is probably right about the oil. Found some oil splashed on the idler pulley right above the compressor which is probably also the source of the slight leak. I'll take your advice Junk and bring her to someone who does this everyday for a living. It is just my mechanic pride that makes me try things on my own (with goggles, gloves and a face shield!!). That and this is supposed to be a hobby car! Please keep giving your advice. I as well as others enjoy learning from your experience. On a side note: the system will probably need to be flushed also. What type of solvent do you use and is it just poured into the lines and blown out with compressed air?

 

[JonM]

I have no clue when it comes to AC...Just tossing up a few sites to look at...

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_auto_air_conditioning/article/0,2021,DIY_13674_2276709,00.html

http://www.aircondition.com/

http://www.duracool.com/

http://www.id-usa.com/

 

[1984C4]

Thanks for the links JonM. I've seen a couple of them before but one of them tells you how to do the flush which is what I was looking for. I called a mechanic who has a mobile AC repair company. He comes to you. He gave me some advice so I'm going to order a new compressor, orifice tube, receiver dryer, oil and a flush kit. Once I have it all assembled he will come over, pull a vaccum, charge it and leak check it for me for $89.00 using my freon. Sounds like a bargain to get some professional training and experienced eyes on my work. He agrees that 40 psi was not enough to lock it up but the fact that it may have been losing oil over the years was the culprit. I'll let ya know how it goes. Chevy dealer wanted way too much for a compressor and my local NAPA can't get one for a week so it may be a while.

 

[1984C4]

For anyone that is interested, I ordered all this stuff from ackits.com. A rebuilt compressor was only $172.00 but since a new one was so cheap I got it. I got all this for $118.00 cheaper than what the dealer was going to charge me just for a compressor. If you need any AC stuff I suggest you check them out. Very user friendly web site.

Code Name Quantity Price/Ea. Total
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CP3011 GM COMPLETE SYSTEM O-RING KIT 1988 & PRIOR 1 $2.82 $2.82
CP3016 GM SEALING WASHER ASSORTMENT 2004 & PRIOR 1 $8.30 $8.30
15-20185 COMPRESSOR/CLUTCH(New) 1 $212.73 $212.73
41462MD ACCUMULATOR/DRIER 1 $40.57 $40.57
31-50001 EXPANSION VALVE (ORIFICE TUBE) 1 $1.16 $1.16
09500MD Mineral Oil 525 Viscosity (Quart Bottle) 1 $5.22 $5.22
91046-A Mastercool A/C Flush Kit 1 $50.74 $50.74
Shipping:UPS Ground: $33.68
Sales Tax: $0.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total: $355.22
Year: 1984
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Corvette
Engine Size: 350 CI

 

[WhalePirot]

Thanks for the parts info.

Check this; you may be interested in getting 'blessed".

http://www.epatest.com/e_609cert.html

 

[1984C4]

Thanks for the link to the 609 cert. I found it yesterday and started reading it. I'm going to print it out, study it and take the test. It has already answered a lot of questions for me. Another excellent site is http://www.autoacforum.com/index.cfm Tons of excellent people helping eachother out just like this site but it is dedicated to AC questions.