I tried to start my 454 tonight.

[Paranoid]

I replaced the carb gasket, and ran a new vacuum line to the canister. I pushed the distributor further back CCW. Can't go any more because the tach cable is hitting the firewall. I had to try to start it now to take advantage of my spotter who came home from school but has to go back soon for a football game.

It started right up( I have the idle screw set to high), no back fire, no misses, no shaking or bucking. It ran for about 6-7 min (could have been longer) @2500rpm's like a champ, I had my wire tying down the throttle and got out of the car to walk around to check for leaks & such. No smoking either, must have burned everything off this morning.

I pushed the distributor CW but the engine liked it better where I had it originally.

No coolant leaks, but the fans never turned on at 165?? Oil pressure 40-50, temp reached 200.

Then after about 7 min it started getting a miss! Still ran but the rpm's dropped to 1500. I tried to give it more gas but that made the rpm's even worse.

Then fuel started leaking out of the fuel pump! Right along the seam where the rubber membrane is. :crazy:

Maybe it's me, but I can barely hear those solid lifters---I have the "special oiler" ones from Isky, with a 0.024 hole in the bottom center. Supposed to help lubricate the cam better.


I shut it down. Looks like I'll be working on the fans and the fuel pump.

Why the onset of a miss after running so strong??

 

[KOPBET]

Sounds like you are making progress. I always had this notion that #1 post was at the window. Am I nuts or is this different?

 

[Sting Ray]

On the miss issue have you checked your coil wire, a buddy had one with the connector basicaly falling off, and it would skip after a while when it kind of broke the connection, if the skip is only at lower RPM's check to make sure the dist. cap isn't broken or corroded.

Good Luck
Tom

I replaced the carb gasket, and ran a new vacuum line to the canister. I pushed the distributor further back CCW. Can't go any more because the tach cable is hitting the firewall. I had to try to start it now to take advantage of my spotter who came home from school but has to go back soon for a football game.

It started right up( I have the idle screw set to high), no back fire, no misses, no shaking or bucking. It ran for about 6-7 min (could have been longer) @2500rpm's like a champ, I had my wire tying down the throttle and got out of the car to walk around to check for leaks & such. No smoking either, must have burned everything off this morning.

I pushed the distributor CW but the engine liked it better where I had it originally.

No coolant leaks, but the fans never turned on at 165?? Oil pressure 40-50, temp reached 200.

Then after about 7 min it started getting a miss! Still ran but the rpm's dropped to 1500. I tried to give it more gas but that made the rpm's even worse.

Then fuel started leaking out of the fuel pump! Right along the seam where the rubber membrane is. :crazy:

Maybe it's me, but I can barely hear those solid lifters---I have the "special oiler" ones from Isky, with a 0.024 hole in the bottom center. Supposed to help lubricate the cam better.


I shut it down. Looks like I'll be working on the fans and the fuel pump.

Why the onset of a miss after running so strong??

 

[Paranoid]

Once I get the fuel pump & fans fixed, I'll be able to let her run longer. The carb, distributor, rotor, cap and wires all came from my well tuned SB about a month ago.

I examined all the plug wires yesterday and the coil wire again this morning. I couldn't find any problems.

I started her up again a little while ago just to see where the rpm's would be and it started right up at 2500 rpm's, which is where I had the throttle set.

Heat boiling the fuel in the bowls?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Paranoid]

Sounds like you are making progress. I always had this notion that #1 post was at the window. Am I nuts or is this different?

Here's two pictures of L-88's, not mine. You be the judge. :gap

 

[67HEAVEN]

Len,

You may have compensated for it, but your #1 is one position beyond the positions in the L-88 photos.

 

[Paranoid]

Holy crap!


I've been working off the wrong drawing which also happens to match how my SB is setup. I don't know where i got it. How bizarre is that.

You're correct, my caps are ALL off by one. That's how my SB was setup when I bought it.

I don't think I'll be able to rotate the cap, so I'll have to switch all the wires. Then what will I need to do? Start the timing & TDC location from scratch?

Thanks Bob.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Then what will I need to do? Start the timing & TDC location from scratch?

I would, just to be on the safe side.

 

[Paranoid]

I tracked down the site with the bogus info and the drawing from which I was working. I don't remember how I happened upon or if someone referred me to the site for "distributor removal & installation. Anyway it's wrong.

I am so Miffed! I shoulda stuck with the manual.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/disremov/firingorder.jpg

 

[Sting Ray]

Actually that setup might have been right for a shark, there was a service bullitin for sharks if I remember correctly to compensate with an interference with the dist. and the intake, but I thought it was to turn the dist 180*.


Sounds like you might be on the right path.

Good Luck,

Tom

 

[Glassman]

Don't you own a timing light.

Is the distributor points or magnetic pickup.

I usually set the timing to start by setting the advance on the damper about 18 degree then open the distributor line up the pickup and lock it. Then make sure the rotor is facing the number one cyl.
works for me.

 

[paul67]

Re plug wires and tach drive position, here is the GM tech bulletin for the small block, 1968-74. This comes courtesy of the NCRS. (It may not be relevant to your big block.)

The reason for the change from the C2s was the reconfiguration of the firewall in 1968. You would have thought the factory engineers would have picked up on the tach drive interference issue but it appears not and left the corrective action to the dealers.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/paul79//ncrs04.jpg

 

[Paranoid]

Wow! #1 is way over in the corner by the VC. I'm way off.

 

[Paranoid]

I think I got the wiring right this time guys, check it out. I re-wired the dist (correctly this time) and relocated the rotor based on TDC. End result? It runs great. Took it down the street (dead-end) and it didn't die or sputter. Got it timed to about 16+. Thanks for your tips and discerning eyes.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Good news. It sure looks a lot better too.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Man ...That's a good looking Motor... Nice work.. Ain't nothing like a Big Block Stuffed in the Engine Bay of A Vette...!!!!:bar

 

[BlackNBlue95]

"The worst could have happened, but didn't, that being when I turn the key I get just a click. :cry "


It's a good thing that fuel fountain didn't meet a backfire! Would have been worse than a flatline!!!

I'm with all the other guys - check the firing order and make extra sure you have the distributor on the right tooth.

I worked on a van one time where you actually work on the car from the INSIDE.. Tried to start it after changing the plug wires and POW I had flames on the inside ... picture a 20 year old kid not knowing what the hell just happened and trying to fan the flames with his hand and blow out the flames... yep that was me. I had the wrong firing order.

Brian

Ha had that happen a while back too.. grabbed the water hose to keep the interior from frying.. thank god no damage..

I had cleaned the back of the motor with some solvent after replacing an oil sender. i also cleaned the throttle plates on it and it back fired through the intake and ignited the solvent.. i am lucky that nothing got melted.

accidents do happen, thats life, just gotta be catious and stay calm.
-=Rick

 

[00fxd]

I just noticed this thread. You have spent a substantial amount of money and done a very nice job and it would be a great shame for anything to go wrong. My ONLY advise to you would be to have some one who has done an initial start up over to give you a hand, particularily with whats been happining. If I lived close to you I would be MORE than happy and a bit flattered to be asked to come by. A smokey stinky noisey engine start up and cam break in is no place for kids with a water hose and tying thottles open is a sure recipe for disaster. It is far better to wedge the throttle open with a small piece of folded cardboard etc so it can be pulled out when nessesary. Turning off the key at 2500 rpm can result in run on with the throttle plates adjusted open [I learned that the hard way] when you REALLY want it to shut off. Have an assistant there to throw a cloth/blanket over a carb fire. Less messy, and water is known as NOT a good method for putting out a gas fire as gas floats on water. I don't get too excited with a little flame in the cab, if your sitting there by the key anyway, I just spin the engine and the flame gets sucked into the engine where it belongs. Actually, you should have a fire ext there for if things get that far outa hand but thats real messy.........

 

[Paranoid]

I just noticed this thread. You have spent a substantial amount of money and done a very nice job and it would be a great shame for anything to go wrong. My ONLY advise to you would be to have some one who has done an initial start up over to give you a hand, particularily with whats been happining. If I lived close to you I would be MORE than happy and a bit flattered to be asked to come by. A smokey stinky noisey engine start up and cam break in is no place for kids with a water hose and tying thottles open is a sure recipe for disaster. It is far better to wedge the throttle open with a small piece of folded cardboard etc so it can be pulled out when nessesary. Turning off the key at 2500 rpm can result in run on with the throttle plates adjusted open [I learned that the hard way] when you REALLY want it to shut off. Have an assistant there to throw a cloth/blanket over a carb fire. Less messy, and water is known as NOT a good method for putting out a gas fire as gas floats on water. I don't get too excited with a little flame in the cab, if your sitting there by the key anyway, I just spin the engine and the flame gets sucked into the engine where it belongs. Actually, you should have a fire ext there for if things get that far outa hand but thats real messy.........

Too bad you came about a week late to the party.

 

[00fxd]

Just tryin' to help. Nice job. Many guys would have been tickled to help out on a quality deal like that.
Did you find out what your miss was?