I'm floundering... again

[studiog]

Here is my latest quandary. I have my car primed with high build primer surfacer and blocked to the point where I am very happy with the straightness of all the panels, most of the primer is down to where I can almost see through it. All my edges are nice and I'm happy with the fit of my trunk, deck lid, hood and my doors seem good too. I have inspected every nook and cranny. I have the whole car blocked to 320 grit. I need one more primer coat before paint but I want something that will lay down smooth with no texture so I don't have to go back to 220 grit paper and block again. Should I be thinking about just a sealer primer? Would an epoxy sealer be good at this point or should I still be using something with a little build? I know I don't need the corrosion protection and that the epoxy is hard to sand if I goof and it has a limited window for topcoating. I have decided to go with single stage urethane for my topcoat. Your comments are appreciated.

 

[61 Silver]

Primer

Hi! Studiog



I had a problem with the paint on the 65. I am currently stripping the paint and reading the car for a re-paint (Base Coat-Clear Coat this time). I had something from under the paint causing it to craze, it look like water spotting. I finished sanded a couple of times, removed the craze only to have it come back after a few days. The 65 was top coated with lacquer by a friend at his shop and not sure if contamination occurred after I delivered the body. I follow the same procedure with the 61 and the paint looks great, but I did all the work myself. I used PPG products and called PPG about the craze look. They ask what primer I use and told them acrylic, I wanted to keep as close to factory as possible. I used the red oxide for the first coat and the gray as my sanding guide coat. PPG strongly recommended an epoxy primer. It will seal the polly-primers, any sand through and help to prevent telegraphing of bodywork. I would contact the person that I purchased the paint from or manufactory of the paint and follow the manufactures recommendations. I am sure John M will provide us with additional information.



Studiog: I may be traveling your way over the holidays. My son lives in Danbury CT and I plan on stopping at my brothers in Chatam NY on my return. I also hope to stop in Poughkeepsie NY. The dealer that originally sold the 61 is located in this area and I would like to track the dealer down and see if they may have some old photos.





Ray

 

[studiog]

Hi! Studiog



I had a problem with the paint on the 65. I am currently stripping the paint and reading the car for a re-paint (Base Coat-Clear Coat this time). I had something from under the paint causing it to craze, it look like water spotting. I finished sanded a couple of times, removed the craze only to have it come back after a few days. The 65 was top coated with lacquer by a friend at his shop and not sure if contamination occurred after I delivered the body. I follow the same procedure with the 61 and the paint looks great, but I did all the work myself. I used PPG products and called PPG about the craze look. They ask what primer I use and told them acrylic, I wanted to keep as close to factory as possible. I used the red oxide for the first coat and the gray as my sanding guide coat. PPG strongly recommended an epoxy primer. It will seal the polly-primers, any sand through and help to prevent telegraphing of bodywork. I would contact the person that I purchased the paint from or manufactory of the paint and follow the manufactures recommendations. I am sure John M will provide us with additional information.



Studiog: I may be traveling your way over the holidays. My son lives in Danbury CT and I plan on stopping at my brothers in Chatam NY on my return. I also hope to stop in Poughkeepsie NY. The dealer that originally sold the 61 is located in this area and I would like to track the dealer down and see if they may have some old photos.





Ray

Thanks for the info Ray. Sounds like epoxy might be a good choice. Sorry to hear about the 65's paint problems. I hope John M. has some input also. Chatham is probably the closest town to me about an hour or so away. We are heading to NJ over the holidays. I would really like to catch up to you sometime. I'm sure we will at some Vette show sometime.

 

[John Mcgraw]

Studiodog,

You never told us what primer you used, but if you are using one of the polyester 2K primer/ surfacers, then I would just stick with that material for the last coat, and sand to 600 grit before applying the finish coats. The epoxy sealer/primers like DP90 are good, but are not really intended to sand, and you really don't need the corrosion resistance it affords.


Regards, John McGraw

 

[studiog]

Studiodog,

You never told us what primer you used, but if you are using one of the polyester 2K primer/ surfacers, then I would just stick with that material for the last coat, and sand to 600 grit before applying the finish coats. The epoxy sealer/primers like DP90 are good, but are not really intended to sand, and you really don't need the corrosion resistance it affords.


Regards, John McGraw

Sorry, I forgot to mention I used Slick sand 2K polyester high build primer. It seems to have a bit of texture no matter what i do with the gun and reducing.

 

[studiog]

HVLP Devilbiss Finishline 2.2 tip

 

[John Mcgraw]

Studiodog,

Slick Sand does not lay down that good, and you can expect it to orange peel no mater what. I like using PPG NCP271 for my final prime coats, just because it lays out so nice. I would not invest in another primer and all the related reducersand hardners just to make it smoother. It will be just as easy to sand a little more. You can reduce the SlickSand with acetone a little, and it will lay out better, but it is still not great. That tip is plenty big for this material. and you are probably not going to make any improvement except for maybe a little more tip pressure.


Regards, John Mcgraw

 

[vette]

Slick sand is a polyester primer as you know. It is meant to be like mud. Use PPG K 38 or any urethane primer you like. I use K38 and tint each coat a little darker as I go. You can tint K38 with DCC black tint. You can also thin it with DT 870 and it will lay out very nice. Sand with 400 to 600 and you are ready to go. Use what ever sealer that is made for your top coat. I use K38 every day for many years. I only tint it on full paint jobs. Brian G.