Question: Inside bolts on SuperRam?

[WhalePirot]

Living the nightmare, again: I am reassembling the Lingenfelter/Accel SuperRram manifold after the clowns at 7s Only Racing screwed it up, royally.

I want to ease this process and thought that nylock nuts and/or Loctite would keep bolts from loosening and getting sucked into the cylinders. For those familiar, you know the design has 16 small bolts attaching the plenum base to the runners, all from outside the plenum; a cause of bleeding and foul words when worked on.

Has anyone or would anyone advise if drilling out the threaded plenum bolts, then using bolts and nuts is okay, given the above?

Thanks in advance. The thunder is getting closer.

 

[rrubel]

L
Has anyone or would anyone advise if drilling out the threaded plenum bolts, then using bolts and nuts is okay, given the above?

Sorry to hear about your bad experience. Fixing someone else's screwup is never fun .

The last time we had my SR off (redoing intake gaskets) he went with the from-inside method. He didn't use nuts, but longer bolts and loc-tite. He drilled the plenum holes and tapped the runner holes and so far (couple K miles, couple years) they've held just fine. It's hard to test looseness from the outside on a couple of those fasteners because of their location, but nothing looks like it's backing out.

The other alternative, which you've probably already considered, is to cut slots in the ends of the bolts, feed them from the outside, and screw them from the inside.

[RICHR]

 

[WhalePirot]

Thanks Rich. I swore that I would sell the SR before doing this again, but did not, as y'all can see. I just found that they broke the wiper motor plastic cover, too, so I have to find or fabricate one. There is almost no clearance there. Is that your situation, too?

The other alternative, which you've probably already considered, is to cut slots in the ends of the bolts.....

I did, but thought that my skill at those cuts, given the tools available, might not yield bolts that would allow proper tightening torque, whole being rather time consuming and that a better result would be to go the other direction.

I did polish, then clear coat the unit, putting black epoxy paint in the 'valley' and edges of the cove. I think it looks better than the rough casting finish.

 

[rrubel]

I've got maybe 1/4-1/2" clearance by the wiper motor; it's enough that it doesn't hit so I'm not concerned.

I've considered polishing/painting mine, but it looks decent the way it is for now. If I did anything, it'd be to paint or powdercoat it red to match the rest of the car.

[RICHR]

 

[WhalePirot]

UR lucky

That's more than I have; about 1/8". I had hoped that the engine would have been re-installed slightly differently on the motor mounts, giving more clearance.

I wish I could find a simple cover, just the plastic and not the whole WW motor.

 

[Hrtbeat1]

That's more than I have; about 1/8". I had hoped that the engine would have been re-installed slightly differently on the motor mounts, giving more clearance.

I wish I could find a simple cover, just the plastic and not the whole WW motor.

Let me check on the old '90 ... Pretty sure the WW motor is still in good shape. Maybe even the cover. You think the parts are the same between '84 and '90?



G

 

[WhalePirot]

You think the parts are the same between '84 and '90?

Wow! Cool! MA Motorworks shows '84-'96. there is one on eBay that closes in a couple of hours... IF you have a chance to look and relay what you want for it.

Thanks you so much. Mike

 

[Hrtbeat1]

I'll check on it this evening. You need the whole thing, or just the cover?

 

[WhalePirot]

I'll check on it this evening. You need the whole thing, or just the cover?

Just the plastic cover, but there is a circuit board attached to the inside. The cover attaches with three #10 Torx screws. Any idea what you want for it?

Thanks again.

 

[Hrtbeat1]

I'll have to check the condition first. When the '90 burned it started in the rear, the firewall did its job backwards... (kept the fire OUT of the engine compartment) It was still hot enough that it melted and broke the front windshield, have to check that the cover didn't get damaged. If it checks out its yours.



G

 

[Hrtbeat1]

Hey Mike,

Sorry but my WW cover isn't in very good condition. The top edge nearest the windshield is slightly melted, right where the connector is.

Sorry I couldn't help man

 

[WhalePirot]

Sorry I couldn't help man

Hey pal, thanks for taking the shot and for your time. Amazing, that Corvette guys will lend a strong hand to others amid this world of 'other' people. What a great and encouraging example!

Guys, Hrtbeat had offered to pull the cover I need from his old car, which had burned from the rear, saying in reply to my query about price, that "it is yours" if its in good condition. We do these things for each other, don't we?

I wonder how many other forums; how many other marques have this happen. (USAF)

 

[Hrtbeat1]

Nothing to it really. We've talked before, and I know you are a stand up guy. Plus the part is just sitting there in whats left of the car. I wasn't gonna do anything with it, and you could have used it, too bad it wasn't in good shape.

(USA & USN)

 

[WhalePirot]

I drilled out the taps in the plenum and got 1/4" hex bolts with Nylock nuts. The reassembly should be much faster. While it was off, I filed and dressed the plenum' sports, matching them better to the runners. It probably won't matter much.

I am considering solid motor mounts, as after grinding away the rubber under the wiper motor mounts, the plenum fits, but touches. Any torque movement will probably crack the cover.

 

[rrubel]

I hesitate to suggest this, but you could probably grind 1/8" or so off the corner of the plenum corner and be fine. IIRC the walls are pretty thick. Might not do much for the looks, though .
[RICHR]

 

[WhalePirot]

...... grind 1/8" or so off the corner of the plenum corner

I had considered that and may do it yet. I finally got all the wire looms routed under and redid the vacuum lines to clean things up. I also make gaskets for the plenum mount, but will used a "generous nerdle" of Permatex black for the cover seal. I mechanic friend has a gasket punch set for the hole; man, is that slick for quick, professional gaskets.

You know, the casting is not all that pretty and tends to dirty up through collecting goop in the pores. If I grind the corner, I can polish it as I did the rest. I used my belt sander as step one in the polishing process, then progressed through finer and finer sandpaper, then rubbing and polishing compounds to shine it up. It is not chrome-looking but it is much better than the wavy, rough finish.

I was thinking about you this morning and was going to ask if you had yours all neat and if you would post a picture of it.

Thanks, bud.

Mike

 

[WhalePirot]

That d*%$ed Accel plenum is on; cover soon to follow. FWIW, drilling and using bolts and nuts is a slight time saver, but did not simplify the assembly as much as I had thought. Some of the holes were drilled too closely to the edge to get nuts on the inside and the Allen bolt heads were also tight.:bash

The engine might run tonight or tomorrow. hnoes

 

[rrubel]

This is probably the best engine shot I have:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=321108&id=809077305

This is the album of the engine rebuild.

[RICHR]

 

[WhalePirot]

thanks. I got into the album and saved a couple of shots. I may have more A.I.R. valve issues, as the belt broke and punished them. Also, documentation on vacuum hose routing is scant.

Hmmm, those headers look sooo familiar!

How's the car run?

 

[CRV3TT3]

I hear the superram install is alot easier when you stud the plenum, drop the plenum on the runners, and put lock nuts on the studs.

Mine will be going on here shortly. The car is at the paint shop right now.

studs install like so...