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Installing Hooker sidepipes

  • Thread starter Thread starter C3RVETTE
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C3RVETTE

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Is there a "how-to" on the site,or does anyone have experience with installing Hooker sidepipes & headers? I got a very decent used set,& had everything ceramic coated,& wouldnt mind getting them installed during the summer.Wish I had a lift though! ;shrug
 
All you need is 18" of clearance between the frame and the ground. The most difficult part is getting the old exhaust off. I have a Kwik-Lift- drive on it and raise it so the car is level. Puts the car 20" off the ground, but still sets on the tires. I rolled my headers in with no problems after I lifted it up about 10". Don't forget to disconnect the battery- you don't want to touch the starter with your new headers and arc burn them.
 
All you need is 18" of clearance between the frame and the ground. The most difficult part is getting the old exhaust off. I have a Kwik-Lift- drive on it and raise it so the car is level. Puts the car 20" off the ground, but still sets on the tires. I rolled my headers in with no problems after I lifted it up about 10". Don't forget to disconnect the battery- you don't want to touch the starter with your new headers and arc burn them.
Thanks,I dont have a lift,& I dont think enough room in my measly one-car garage,so I most likely would be attempting this in my gravel driveway.Not ideal.As far as my current system coming off,I dont think it will be much trouble.It consists of ceramic headers,& aluminized dual exhaust with a removable 'H' crossover,I had installed about 4 years ago. I read in a post I found during a search,that Hooker supplies a template with a newly purchased set,for trimming the stock metal rocker panels.I wonder if I can get that from them,or off their website...whatever thats listed as.;shrug
 
I still need to finish my rocker panels too. The PO had the sidemounts and had trimmed the rockers to fit. I swapped over to a new set that's Jet-Hot coated and they're just enough different the panels need some more trimming. I'm going to get a 3" drum sander one of these days.

I've done my share of this stuff on dirt, gravel, and in the street. Get a big chunk of old carpet and lay on that- it's not as pointy as the gravel is.
 
I still need to finish my rocker panels too. The PO had the sidemounts and had trimmed the rockers to fit. I swapped over to a new set that's Jet-Hot coated and they're just enough different the panels need some more trimming. I'm going to get a 3" drum sander one of these days.

I've done my share of this stuff on dirt, gravel, and in the street. Get a big chunk of old carpet and lay on that- it's not as pointy as the gravel is.
The p[roblem I had with gravel.last time I worked on it,is you need LOTS of plywood if you plan on floor jacking,& using jackstands.These dont slide around too well in gravel.;shrug
 
Besides you don't want to set a car on jackstands on any non-solid surface. :ugh Good way to have to bench press your car.

Might want to wrap the headers w/ something to protect the finish from scratches as you thread them thru the frame and block.
 
Besides you don't want to set a car on jackstands on any non-solid surface. :ugh Good way to have to bench press your car.

Might want to wrap the headers w/ something to protect the finish from scratches as you thread them thru the frame and block.
Yeah,well,at this point everyones pretty much talked me out of a self-install. :ohnoes:eyerole:cry
 
Actually, in my experience, once the old exhaust manifolds were out, I was able to snake in the new headers from the top-down. It will require two sets of hands though to install them, as you need one person to hold them in place while you start the retaining bolts. Having them held from under the car was the easiest way because then the other person isn't in your way..

I highly suggest using Stage 8 bolts for the headers. You can also order them from Summit Racing.
 
you can do it in the garage with a floor jack and a couple jackstands. i lifted the car from the lower ball joint area and put the stands under the frame rail at the front of the doors. make sure you chock the rear wheels for manual tranny. just work the front end up a little at a time on each side until run out of floor jack. i took me three side to side swaps to get it airborne. as for the install, disconnect battery prior to playing with headers and put them in from the bottom. i could not fit mine with the A/C stuff in place from the top. as for the rocker panel trim, each one needs custom trimming. the headers are not all the same as are motor mounts. i had a second pair of hands to help place the header to head and measure the area i had to trim. used a dremel tool with carbide cut off wheel. do no skimp on the manifold gaskets, pony up and buy the head gasket type, paper will not cut it. also, you may want to considder some STS baffles for the tubes, the Hooker inserts are very restrictive. good luck and enjoy, the pipes, remember to step out and OVER them when getting out of the car.
 
Here's the instruction that come with the pipes. Use liberal amounts of anti seize on the pipes before installing on the header.

Gary

Hookerinst1-1.jpg


Hookerinst2-1.jpg


Hookerinst3-1.jpg
 
This is probably moot but running the AIR pump into the collector will probably not pass a sniffer test since the original design injects the fresh air right at the head of the exhaust valve where the temperature is maximum.
 

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