V
vetter1986
Guest
My vettes' dash lights will intermittently go out and comeback on. It sounds like a ground problem to me, possibly a connection at the printed circuit. Has anyone else seen this before?????
vigman
Motor head!!!!
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Messages
- 3,471
- Location
- Valencia, CA,USA
- Corvette
- 88 Convert ( SOLD ) /1973 coupe 4 speed/1964 Vert!
All at once......
Or just corners..... does the dash wig out as well ( bogus readings on all gauges?)
If you TAP the top of the dash.. do the lights come back on?
When the lights go out do the turn & Hi beam come on?
The typical problem isn't ground ( external ) of the dash but a crispy 12 pin molex style connector
internal of the dash module.
I need more info to help with this.
Mike
Or just corners..... does the dash wig out as well ( bogus readings on all gauges?)
If you TAP the top of the dash.. do the lights come back on?
When the lights go out do the turn & Hi beam come on?
The typical problem isn't ground ( external ) of the dash but a crispy 12 pin molex style connector
internal of the dash module.
I need more info to help with this.
Mike
- Thread starter
- #3
V
vetter1986
Guest
Dash lights flicker
It doesnt matter if you go around a corner or not there is no pattern to it. Sometimes tapping the dash will make them comeback but the gauge readings are fine. Thanks
It doesnt matter if you go around a corner or not there is no pattern to it. Sometimes tapping the dash will make them comeback but the gauge readings are fine. Thanks
vigman
Motor head!!!!
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Messages
- 3,471
- Location
- Valencia, CA,USA
- Corvette
- 88 Convert ( SOLD ) /1973 coupe 4 speed/1964 Vert!
Ken
Gone but not forgotten
Thank you for providing that link Mike, excellent article.
I met Gordon and bought his book when I was in Bowling Green earlier this year. I highly recommend it for any C4 Corvette owner with the digital dash.
_ken
Ken
Gone but not forgotten
- Thread starter
- #7
V
vetter1986
Guest
Dash lights flicker
Good info just what I was looking for thanks.
Good info just what I was looking for thanks.
CorvetteArchives
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2001
- Messages
- 547
- Location
- Carbon County, PA
- Corvette
- 1984 Z51 Silver/Gray & as Much SS & CFibre we find
If everything goes out at same time.....yet functions properly when it does light........it probably is the ground
vigman
Motor head!!!!
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Messages
- 3,471
- Location
- Valencia, CA,USA
- Corvette
- 88 Convert ( SOLD ) /1973 coupe 4 speed/1964 Vert!
More good dash info
http://www.batee.com/corvette/index.html
75% of the dashes I've torn apart the right most molex pin has fried internal of the dash ( to much current from the 882's)
I've been moonlighting for a bit rebuilding dashes
84-89 and I've had more fun with this one, a few months ago I had a heck of a time getting my cruise to work...I got bad or incomplete info ( from dealers & mechanics) I found out very few people ( that I had contact with) actually understood how it did what it did. One dealer ( who shall remain nameless) stated "I had to replace all my LED's in the display" I got SO FRUSTRATED I built a car emulator....Two days later & one cobbled together vac pump I started reverse engineering the dash.
So far Ive fixed 12 dashes and have it down to a science. Call me crazy!
Mike
ps not to start a war... there are a lot of good mechanics out there in the real world... Just not out in Valencia!
http://www.batee.com/corvette/index.html
75% of the dashes I've torn apart the right most molex pin has fried internal of the dash ( to much current from the 882's)
I've been moonlighting for a bit rebuilding dashes
84-89 and I've had more fun with this one, a few months ago I had a heck of a time getting my cruise to work...I got bad or incomplete info ( from dealers & mechanics) I found out very few people ( that I had contact with) actually understood how it did what it did. One dealer ( who shall remain nameless) stated "I had to replace all my LED's in the display" I got SO FRUSTRATED I built a car emulator....Two days later & one cobbled together vac pump I started reverse engineering the dash.
So far Ive fixed 12 dashes and have it down to a science. Call me crazy!
Mike
ps not to start a war... there are a lot of good mechanics out there in the real world... Just not out in Valencia!
Ken
Gone but not forgotten
One of these days...
Mike, when would be a good time for me to get in touch with you, or try to hook-up?
I think it'd be cool to meet and from the sound of your responses here, you have a pretty good handle on the digital dash.
My fix wasn't complete enough I guess; mine's acting up again.
_ken
Mike, when would be a good time for me to get in touch with you, or try to hook-up?
I think it'd be cool to meet and from the sound of your responses here, you have a pretty good handle on the digital dash.
My fix wasn't complete enough I guess; mine's acting up again.
_ken
vigman
Motor head!!!!
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Messages
- 3,471
- Location
- Valencia, CA,USA
- Corvette
- 88 Convert ( SOLD ) /1973 coupe 4 speed/1964 Vert!
Dash Fritz!!!
Ken what's you dash doing???
Oh BTW
The starter circut is the following..
The (#5 Gauge) Yellow from the Ignition switch is the Start signal Pin S.
Which connects to
The VATS starter enable relay, Pin E (#5 Gauge),
*****behind the drivers information panel****
(Even though you VATS sensing has been bypassed the relay is still in circut)*****
Which connects to
The oppostie side of the VATS starter enable relay Pin A. The Wire in the circut is now a Dark Green with a white stripe (#5 Gauge) pin C
Which connects to
The Clutch Start switch Pin C Dark Green with a white stripe (#5 Gauge) swinger side of the switch.
Which connects to
The Clutch Start switch, Pin A, Purple wire,(#6 Gauge) The switch CLOSES with the pedal pressed.
Which connects to
A splice in the harness which supplies power to the CINJ/CLU fuse.
*****behind the drivers information panel****
and this supplies power to the cold start injector
via a small (.8) purple wire.The BIG Purple wire keeps going!
Which connects to
Firewall connector (C-100) the one under the brake booster.
Which connects to
The starter!Purple wire,(#6 Gauge).
My Guess is
A) The relay behind the drivers info panel is shot
Test Condition
CAR WON'T Crank!
Test
CAR IN NEUTRAL, Wheels chocked.
Put a 12 volt test light on the Dark Green/white wire( and to ground )
If the light LIGHTS the Starter ENABLE relay is ok.
If no light ( or dim ). Cut & splice those two wires together, do a NICE crimp connection & don't spare the tape.Yellow & Dark Green/White.
Next guess......
B) The clutch start switch is shot
Test Condition
CAR WON'T Crank ( Again )
Test
Put a 12 volt test light on the Purple wire( and to ground ) and press the clutch to the ground. You might want to check the mechanical adjustment while your under there.
If the light LIGHTS the Clutch Switch is ok.
If no light ( or dim ). The switch is KAPUT
If the light lights in either of these tests and the starter still dosent spin...it's the firewall connector.. but I doubt it.
Maybe this coming weekend..If you can hoof it to Valencia or E mail what time your going to be on here today.. I'll be on & Off today
Mike
Ken what's you dash doing???
Oh BTW
The starter circut is the following..
The (#5 Gauge) Yellow from the Ignition switch is the Start signal Pin S.
Which connects to
The VATS starter enable relay, Pin E (#5 Gauge),
*****behind the drivers information panel****
(Even though you VATS sensing has been bypassed the relay is still in circut)*****
Which connects to
The oppostie side of the VATS starter enable relay Pin A. The Wire in the circut is now a Dark Green with a white stripe (#5 Gauge) pin C
Which connects to
The Clutch Start switch Pin C Dark Green with a white stripe (#5 Gauge) swinger side of the switch.
Which connects to
The Clutch Start switch, Pin A, Purple wire,(#6 Gauge) The switch CLOSES with the pedal pressed.
Which connects to
A splice in the harness which supplies power to the CINJ/CLU fuse.
*****behind the drivers information panel****
and this supplies power to the cold start injector
via a small (.8) purple wire.The BIG Purple wire keeps going!
Which connects to
Firewall connector (C-100) the one under the brake booster.
Which connects to
The starter!Purple wire,(#6 Gauge).
My Guess is
A) The relay behind the drivers info panel is shot
Test Condition
CAR WON'T Crank!
Test
CAR IN NEUTRAL, Wheels chocked.
Put a 12 volt test light on the Dark Green/white wire( and to ground )
If the light LIGHTS the Starter ENABLE relay is ok.
If no light ( or dim ). Cut & splice those two wires together, do a NICE crimp connection & don't spare the tape.Yellow & Dark Green/White.
Next guess......
B) The clutch start switch is shot
Test Condition
CAR WON'T Crank ( Again )
Test
Put a 12 volt test light on the Purple wire( and to ground ) and press the clutch to the ground. You might want to check the mechanical adjustment while your under there.
If the light LIGHTS the Clutch Switch is ok.
If no light ( or dim ). The switch is KAPUT
If the light lights in either of these tests and the starter still dosent spin...it's the firewall connector.. but I doubt it.
Maybe this coming weekend..If you can hoof it to Valencia or E mail what time your going to be on here today.. I'll be on & Off today
Mike
Ken
Gone but not forgotten
Thanks Mike. It's funny, I was thinking this morning that even though I took notes last night, I'll never remember what you told me when I get around to working on it. Now that I printed this response, how can I forget?
_ken
(BTW, I be sure to give you plenty of advance notice when I head out your way. :L)
_ken
(BTW, I be sure to give you plenty of advance notice when I head out your way. :L)
- Thread starter
- #13
B
BasketCase
Guest
Hi guys, just thought I might toss in my 2 cents worth. I had the same intermitent lights out on my dash cluster, everything worked just no lights. I being in the restoration and upholstry field at the time bravely tore the dash apart and dove into the gauge cluster. I found that where the two circuit boards plug together there was a cold solder joint on the pin that went to the LEDs . I have heard that this is a common occurance on these dash modules. I resoldered the pin and perfection no more problem. Hope this helps
Ken
Gone but not forgotten
Gordon Killebrew specifically told me about that when I met him at Bowling Green, but of course I negleted (forgot 
) to dab a bit of solder in that area. I'll be sure to get it this time.
_ken
) to dab a bit of solder in that area. I'll be sure to get it this time. _ken
dash panel keeps going on and off
thanks BD
I see your web link but it is no longer valid do you have another link that i can read about my instrument panel
thanks BD
instrument panel
thanks BD
i saw your post and i tried a few web links that other people posted but they are not working anymore....did you find out how to fix your dash problem because i have the exact same problem with my 1987 vette. and it goes off at any time not when i go over a bump, but if i tap the dash it comes back on...very weird
thanks BD
hcbph
Well-known member
Check over at Batee.com, there's a wealth of info there. Additionally, Bryan does repairs on C4 instrument clusters. Mine went out on my 86 the other year and I sent it to Bryan at Batee and had him repair it. Did an excellent job of it and it's worked fine ever since.
Similar threads
Corvette Forums
Supporting Vendors
Dealers:
