Intake Gasket?

[militant_x]

Just wondering what you guys opt to use on your intake gaskets. There alot of colors of sealant etc.

Ive heard people tell me to throw away the rubber things for the front and back of the intake and just use sealant.

Ive heard people say to just use some sealant in its place and let it sit for an hour.

Ive had people say to put the sealant on and let it sit 24 hours.

Ive heard alot of things, all I care about is... ?what works?

Pretty much everyone I know (truthfully not alot of people) that have installed an intake ended up with a leak. I Do Not Want a Leak. I cant afford it, any spots on my driveway and the association will start to kick my ass around.

anyway, just wondering what the general method/procedure that gets results is.

pretty basic huh? yes i know... but im paranoid.

thanks,

-Chris

 

[Moonunit 451]

Check this thread, and use The Right Stuff. http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45799

 

[cntrhub]

I like factory parts. Figure they know what they are doing and have a reputation to hold. If that gasket kit for your year comes with a rubber gasket, and you are going to remove the manifold that already has a gasket and it lasted that long, what do you think? I would use the rubbers from the kit again.
The best sealer I found happens to be Goodwrench RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant. Part # : 12345739.
Contact clean sealing surfaces free of grease. Run a bead along the bottom and up the sides. Lay the rubber seal in place. Run a bead over the rubber and up the sides again. Lay the manifold in place and set a few bolts in place to line up the manifold. This sealer dries somewhat fast, so you better be efficient on reassembly.
Next is to use Goodwrench Pipe Sealant. Part # 12346004. Spin the manifold bolt as you squeeze the pipe sealant around the beginning threads of the bolt. Install each bolt with sealant. Torque to specs.
When you bolted down the manifold, you should see the black RTV ooze out of the manifold and cover completely. Do not wipe anything off. Leave it alone. Light off the engine in 15 minutes to help cure the sealant. Let the car sit for an hour or more before driving off.
I've done many of these at the dealer level. I can't have a "come-back" or I would have to do it for free and lose money in pocket.
That's about all I can say. Good Luck however you attempt it.

 

[militant_x]

Thanks guys, thats exactly what I needed to know. I didnt see the thread before sorry.

Another random question: There are two holes in the top of the superram plenum that are supposed to be plugged with pipe ends or something like that. Point is they come with the superram kit, and I got mine used and dont have them. Now yes I could easily buy some. No problem there, thats what I plan to do. Just wondering about the possibility of them coming loose... I mean, if they do they could possibly go down a runner and completely blow up my heads.

So, should I care about the material of the pipe fittings,? You know, expansion rates. Anything that expands slower than aluminum will become loose as the plenum heats up. What was supposed to come in the kit? Use locktite? etc.

Now the real big question.... why are these holes there in the first place? And there are two more holes in the front right after the throttle body, only they have no thread.

thanks again. I might make the above its own thread. Love the forums here, you guys always help.

-Chris :cool

 

[Moonunit 451]

Another random question: There are two holes in the top of the superram plenum that are supposed to be plugged with pipe ends or something like that. Point is they come with the superram kit, and I got mine used and dont have them. Now yes I could easily buy some. No problem there, thats what I plan to do. Just wondering about the possibility of them coming loose... I mean, if they do they could possibly go down a runner and completely blow up my heads.

So, should I care about the material of the pipe fittings,? You know, expansion rates. Anything that expands slower than aluminum will become loose as the plenum heats up. What was supposed to come in the kit? Use locktite? etc.

Red locktite, be libereral, I don't think the material is critical I just used the cast ones.

Now the real big question.... why are these holes there in the first place? And there are two more holes in the front right after the throttle body, only they have no thread. -Chris :cool

Don't know why they are there, and I don't remember the others, sorry

 

[rrubel]

On top in back or on top in front? I've got my Superram still sitting in the garage and could see what's plugged - it was unused when I got it. There are two plugs on top on the right rear for the coolant line and EGR pipe, one on the side for the 9th injector, and one on top for the EGR solenoid. I think there's also one on the back for the brake booster line.

If you need their installation instructions, which lists what came in the kit, give a holler and I'll scan them or fax them to you. There's something about a piece of hose for the brake vacuum line; that's kinda important as my kit didn't have that and they say the factory piece won't fit.
[RICHR]

 

[militant_x]

Thanks, I found the installation instructions for the superram at the lingenfelter site. http://www.lingenfelter.com/superraminstall.doc. What do the mean by

"
1. Install all sensors, fittings, etc… on your new ACCEL/Lingenfelter plenum and runners. Be sure to put sealer on threads. Install the two (2) 3/8 pipe plugs into threaded holes inside your new plenum. You should use Loctite 262 or equivalent and stake the plugs with a punch or chisel to prevent loosening.

"

the part in bold im unclear about.

thanks again,

-chris

 

[rrubel]

"
1. Install all sensors, fittings, etc… on your new ACCEL/Lingenfelter plenum and runners. Be sure to put sealer on threads. Install the two (2) 3/8 pipe plugs into threaded holes inside your new plenum. You should use Loctite 262 or equivalent and stake the plugs with a punch or chisel to prevent loosening.

"

Normally, when you stake a nut or similar item, you bend part of the lip of the nut (there's usually a flange) into a slot with a punch or screwdriver to help lock it into place. For example, the axle end on my Subaru Outback has a small slot into which you bend the edge of the axle nut after tightening it down. This is instead of the castle nut used on the Vette (which I find vastly easier to work with - the Sube axle nut came loose on me after NTW staked it wrong).

Anyway, I'm guessing (need to look) that there's a place to bend the edge of the pipe caps to lock them in place. Hope that helps a little.
[RICHR]