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Question: Is half shaft orientation REALLY important?

Bolisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Crystal Lake IL
Corvette
1972 LS5 Convertible PS, PB, A/C
So, this winter I decided to rebuild my TA's. That lead to redo-ing everything short of taking my diff out. . .which I still might do.

Anyway, I removed the half-shafts. . .sand-blasted them, POR-15'ed and painted them. I know which side is for the driver, and which side is for the passenger. . .but I forgot to mark which end was the inner and outer for each side. Is this important? If I don't put them back exactly as the were. . .am I up the creek without a paddle?

-JR
 
ok. . .great.

thought so. . .but wasn't sure. All the online DIY pages show people marking and making sure. Figured since these are not weighted (for balancing) that it wouldn't matter.

-JR
 
ok. . .great.

thought so. . .but wasn't sure. All the online DIY pages show people marking and making sure. Figured since these are not weighted (for balancing) that it wouldn't matter.

-JR

Also ignore the note in the Chassis Service Manual in item #1 under "Installation" that says to rotate the diff yokes so they're phased 90* from each other; that one belongs in the "Shop Manual Misprints Hall Of Fame". :D:eyerole
 
Not sure if balancing them is necessary but probably a good idea...
 
the only issue is the grease fitting of the ujoint , if installed incorrectly you will not be able to grease the fitting.
the grease zert should face the center of the car. i had a 64 that had a vibration at about 40 mph. did everything i could to correct it.
when i installed the ujoint correctly the vibration was solved.
universal is not universal installation.
 
The longitudinal orientation of the half shaft is not an issue.

Because the halfshafts turn at a much slower speed than the driveshaft and their diameter is far less than a tire makes balance not as important as it is with the driveshaft or the tires.

Oh...and BTW, while we're on the subject of halfshafts, I have a set of OE 3" halfshafts for C3 for sale...if anyone's interested, email me at finspeed@charter.net
 
the only issue is the grease fitting of the ujoint , if installed incorrectly you will not be able to grease the fitting.
the grease zert should face the center of the car. i had a 64 that had a vibration at about 40 mph. did everything i could to correct it.
when i installed the ujoint correctly the vibration was solved.
universal is not universal installation.
From what I understand, Spicer u-joints without zerk fittings are preferred.
 
I wound up using the top of the line non-greaseable forged USA made u-joints from NAPA. Precision . . . something or rather. 231's.

While installing I found that I bent the damn flanges. . .while removing the stuck old u-joints. I can't quite get the lock clips in. Have to order replacement flanges. Guessing that the stock cast metal flanges don't like to be bent. . .then unbent much.
 
You've probably already done this, but make sure one of the needle bearings in an end cap of the u-joint didn't fall out and is between the cap and the joint. It'll keep you from getting the clips is and make it seem like the joint is to big or the flange is to narrow.
 
I've heard about that happening. . .but I don't see how it is possible. The neadle bearings (at least on mine) are longer than the opening is wide. It would seem impossible for this to occur.

Having said that. . .it is a good point. . .and I will look into that today.
 
While installing I found that I bent the damn flanges. . .while removing the stuck old u-joints. I can't quite get the lock clips in. Have to order replacement flanges. Guessing that the stock cast metal flanges don't like to be bent. . .then unbent much.

That's the risk you take when you don't use either another flange or a reinforcing plate tool bolted to the flange to stabilize it before pressing out the old joint; they bend quite easily without reinforcement, and then they're paperweights.

:beer
 
What are the symptoms of having bent flanges? I have pressed mine out and in a few times and I have a strange noise when taking off from a stop light. Its almost like the geometry of the u joint flanges is off, causing some weird over center type rotation of the half shafts. Everything else in the rear appears normal. Has driven me nuts for 13 years.
 
bent flanges prevent you from being able to install the retinaing clips. Over bent flanges would have play from the end caps to the retaining clips. Proper installation will have the retaining clips just fit.

When you check your universal joints, they should move fairly freely. One hand should not exurt much (if any) effort to move them. Obviously you would have to disconnect the half shafts to check them.

Do you have greaseable or non-greaseable u-joints? make sure they are well greases if greaseable. . .or check to see if they need to be replaced if non-greaseable.

Other things to check Make sure all your bushings (Trainling Arms, strut rods, and down links to the ends of the leaf springs) are all good. If your strut and down links are dried out. . .you can bet your Trailing arm bushings are done too. In which case you are loooking at a TA rebuild.

If those are all ok. . .then the noise could be in your wheel bearings. . .which would eventually become dangerous. . .or in your diff. If it where your wheel bearings, I would expect that noise to be more or less constant. . .but I'm no expert.

-JR
 
[QUOTE The neadle bearings (at least on mine) are longer than the opening is wide. It would seem impossible for this to occur.

[/QUOTE]

The needles are shorter than you may think.. I have had just one get out of place and there is no way to install the retaining clips with one needle laying sideways in the cap.. I does make it appear the the yokes are bent, but not so.. In fact it happened to me twice on the same ujoint. grrrrrr..
 

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