Is it possible?

[JEFNLSA]

I would like to switch out my base a/c for the electronic climate cotrol. Is it just a matter of replacing the dash unit or is it more in depth than that? Give me a rough guesstimate on cost pls. The a/c plays a major role here in AZ (summertime) and the base system is kinda weak IMO. Would the climate control even be an improvement?
Thx,
Jeff

 

[c4cruiser]

For the work involved, I don't think a switch would help a lot. While the Electronic Climate Control System is sort of a set-and forget system, there are a lot of parts that would have to be installed in the conversion process. Sensors, wiring, dash control panel and the controller would best be taken from a donor car. The heater/A/C box under the dash would have to be swapped out as well. Figure on tearing out the entire dash of your car and swapping out a number of wire looms. Dont' know if the CCM does anything with the C68 option, but if it does, then a new CCM would be required.

Coupes with all of their glass surfaces absorb the suns rays and act like an oven. I would use the solid top instead of the see-thru top and have a dark as legally possible tint installed on the rear hatch. It looks like you already have that from the pic, but also a black car doesn't help either

Make sure the A/C system is working properly and get the cold air temps as low as possible as measured at the outlet vents. Your 96 probably uses R-134a as the refrigerant and it just plain does not cool as well as R-12. You might want to check with a reputable A/C shop to see if they can use a different refrigerant that will provide colder air temps.

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

Auto vs manual A/C

Is it possible? Yes Is it expensive? Yes Is it easy to convert? No Is it worth the effort and money involved? No.
Auto-climate control is strictly used as a convenience feature and does absolutely nothing to make the A/C system cooler. The same basic refrigerant components are the same (compressor,condenser,accumulator), and the control head (dash unit) simply controls blend door and airflow door positions, albeit automatically.
The short answer is this: make certain the system is properly charged and the basic components function properly, and live with the car as is.

You'll notice a dramatic difference in cooling efficiency if you change the color from black to white as darker colored vehicles retain solar heat as opposed to lighter colored vehicles reflecting that very same heat. Consequently, the A/C system has to work much harder. Black cars look cool, but aren't in the literal sense.

 

[JEFNLSA]

For the work involved, I don't think a switch would help a lot. While the Electronic Climate Control System is sort of a set-and forget system, there are a lot of parts that would have to be installed in the conversion process. Sensors, wiring, dash control panel and the controller would best be taken from a donor car. The heater/A/C box under the dash would have to be swapped out as well. Figure on tearing out the entire dash of your car and swapping out a number of wire looms. Dont' know if the CCM does anything with the C68 option, but if it does, then a new CCM would be required.

Coupes with all of their glass surfaces absorb the suns rays and act like an oven. I would use the solid top instead of the see-thru top and have a dark as legally possible tint installed on the rear hatch. It looks like you already have that from the pic, but also a black car doesn't help either

Make sure the A/C system is working properly and get the cold air temps as low as possible as measured at the outlet vents. Your 96 probably uses R-134a as the refrigerant and it just plain does not cool as well as R-12. You might want to check with a reputable A/C shop to see if they can use a different refrigerant that will provide colder air temps.

Hey...
Thanks a bunch for the well informed answer. After reading that, I'm not gonna mess w/ it. I may take your advice on the refrigerant though.

Also on the tint...I just had the windows tinted (after sig pic was taken) and I used limo tint on the rear, what is legal (35% I think) on the sides and a 5" strip across the top of the windshield. Hopefully that will help this summer. I only have the tinted glass top for her right now but I have heard of those inserts you can use to block the sun. Let me tell ya, it was warm in that baby last summer.

Ya know it's funny...the a/c in our BMW blows w/ 10x the ferocity as the one in the Vette. Just a better unit I guess.

Thx again,
Jeff

After reading both posts...thx to the both of you.

Painting the car is not an option. I always wanted a black Vette and I will live w/ it and like it!

 

[tcramstrek]

I lived in Scottsdale, AZ. my 79 is also Black. You'd never catch me out driving when the sun was out. Black is strictly for the night, in the Desert.

 

[JEFNLSA]

I lived in Scottsdale, AZ. my 79 is also Black. You'd never catch me out driving when the sun was out. Black is strictly for the night, in the Desert.

Now ya tell me!!!:L
I moved here last year from Wyoming...black....desert....who'd a thunk?

 

[jmccloud]

Ferocity

Hey...

Ya know it's funny...the a/c in our BMW blows w/ 10x the ferocity as the one in the Vette. Just a better unit I guess.

Thx again,
Jeff

You might check the blower resistors (in the plenum, near the blower, under the hood, they are where the blower power leads connect). If they're not right or if your blower is sick, the air flow will be greatly reduced.
Also, crap tends to collect in front of the condenser (in front of the radiator). Make sure it's clean.
And assure that the refrigerant level is dead on the money. With 134a, just a few ounces will kill cooling capacity.
And does one radiator fan come on as soon as you activate the A/C? It should. Then as the engine temperature coolant heats to around 230, or as the 134a pressure rises, the second cooling fan should activate. Both fans must run at high speed in order for the A/C to achieve maximum cooling.
If ferocity in your comment relates to velocity/quantity of air flow, concentrate on the blower and resistors.

 

[JEFNLSA]

You might check the blower resistors (in the plenum, near the blower, under the hood, they are where the blower power leads connect). If they're not right or if your blower is sick, the air flow will be greatly reduced.
Also, crap tends to collect in front of the condenser (in front of the radiator). Make sure it's clean.
And assure that the refrigerant level is dead on the money. With 134a, just a few ounces will kill cooling capacity.
And does one radiator fan come on as soon as you activate the A/C? It should. Then as the engine temperature coolant heats to around 230, or as the 134a pressure rises, the second cooling fan should activate. Both fans must run at high speed in order for the A/C to achieve maximum cooling.
If ferocity in your comment relates to velocity/quantity of air flow, concentrate on the blower and resistors.

Good info...thx

I may have to have it looked at cuz , to me, it just doesn't seem to be at 100%.

 

[tlong]

Hi JEFNLSA

tlong here. I have a manual climate in my '96. Have you read about the troubles with the automatic control? Your fan isn't working correctly. The fan in mine is exceptionally powerful, and is about the best cooling/heating system I've ever owned. The charge in the system may or may not influence it, I doubt it. Get a solid top or buy the inserts. That makes a world of difference.

I like to push the buttons and have it work perfectly. The auto system has a bad reputation. That ought to be blowing your wig off on #4.

 

[JEFNLSA]

Hi JEFNLSA

tlong here. I have a manual climate in my '96. Have you read about the troubles with the automatic control? Your fan isn't working correctly. The fan in mine is exceptionally powerful, and is about the best cooling/heating system I've ever owned. The charge in the system may or may not influence it, I doubt it. Get a solid top or buy the inserts. That makes a world of difference.

I like to push the buttons and have it work perfectly. The auto system has a bad reputation. That ought to be blowing your wig off on #4.

Hey tlong...thx for the reply

Actually on #4 the fan is screamin' but I can't good air-flow to direct at the driver. Hard to explain...the @#$!ER blows everywhere but at me!

You're right...solid top or the insert is a definite must.

 

[jester]

The advice to get the AC checked out is right on. I spent a few days in AZ with mine a couple years and it cooled down fine. My car is white but I had the tinted top on and it got really hot inside. It was 115 in Havasu and around 110 in Phoenix. Even the white steering wheel with a towel over it was too hot to touch, but it didn't take long to cool down once the AC was on.

I took it in to get the AC checked before I left on the trip and the Service Writer wanted to know what the problem was. I told him it cooled well and seemed to be working OK but I wanted it checked before I crossed the Mohave desert with it twice. Sure enough, although it seemed to be working OK, it was a pound low on coolant.

Get the top taken care of and the AC checked and you should be OK.