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leaf spring removal?

S

sharky

Guest
Hi` my 68 has a crack in the r/end cover so in order to replace. i have to remove springs. Doesn`t look so tuff but i`m guessing it is. anyone out there ever tackle this? I don`t know if I should try it or send out. also anyone know of a Ballpark figure to have this done? Thank`s.
 

Yoda

Well-known member
Administrator
Joined
Oct 12, 2000
Messages
4,885
Location
Amarillo, TX
Corvette
1981 UL5
Not that big of a job

Sharky,

This is something you can probably do yourself. HERE is a very good description, with pictures. Scott81 documented the removal of the rear end on his 1981. Your 68 should be almost the exact same, with the pumpkin cover maybe being a little different.

The key is to use a small block of wood and "C" clamp along with the floor jack to remove the bolts in the rear spring. You can also remove the bolts while leaving the tires on and use the floor jack to get the correct angle to get the bolts out then jack up the car.

Good Luck

BudD
:w
 
B

Bullitt

Guest
Hey there Sharky, I would just like to elaborate on Budd's advice. A while back I attempted the same replacement of my rear diff. cover, on my '71 Vette. It's not a diificult job, but it is labor intensive. The first step is to buy a Haynes manual and read over the procedure till you are clear on everthing to do. I have always used these manuals since I started wrenching on cars, myself. Also, replace the cover with a heavy duty one that won't break like the factory units. Every Corvette retailer sells one. Above all, be carefull.
 

Gus

Active member
Joined
Apr 23, 2001
Messages
44
Location
Charlotte, NC
Corvette
1972 LT-1 Convrt Met Burgandy
Go Fiberglass

Hi Sharky,

Let me suggest switching to one of the fiberglass springs while you are back there...from "Vette Brakes", i would suggest the 315 lb rate or the 330

I replaced both the springs on my 80 and 72 vettes with the 330 and its WELL worth the money and trouble. The ride has improved beyond my wildest expectations :L (and I am using the middle stiffness) they have 300, 315, 330, 340 and 355 spring rates.:cool

The hardest part of taking out that metal spring will be getting the car up high enough so that the spring can be pulled out, so use GOOD jackstands. The orignal springs arch is LOT more than the fiberglass one you'll put back.

Alot of people don't like going to fiberglass because of it not being original, but it is very easy to go back (though WHY you would want to go back, I don't know) :confused

good luck, its not hard, but it IS dirty.
Larry (gus) :cool

Visit the LT-1 Registry
 
B

Bullitt

Guest
Heat!

Keep in mind, that if you do go to a fiberglass spring, you must make sure to have enough clearance between it and the exhaust. The temperatures will destroy the effectivness of the spring and will void the 5 year warranty. Even with proper clearance, I suggest fabricating a heat shield. I believe Hib Halverson did this on the Big Block From Hell.--Bullitt
 
R

redmist

Guest
Maybe I shouldn't post this here, but I have a 340 lb fiberglass spring for sale on E-bay for $150. Includes heat sheild etc.
 

Ken

Gone but not forgotten
Joined
Jan 30, 2001
Messages
8,237
Location
Hermosa Beach, CA
Corvette
1987 Z51 Silver Coupe
Hey Red, there's a marketplace for stuff like that in both the C3 and C4 forums. ;)

Ken
 
M

minesa69

Guest
My first post!

Sharky,

One piece of advice that no one has mentioned yet:
when re-installing new spring, do not torque the 4 bolts that hold the spring plate until the car is back on it ground and the weight is on the tires. Otherwise the stress may break one (or more) of the ears off your new rear cover.
 

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