Lifted body off frame today!

[69MyWay]

Bill,

Nice work!

When I first saw these pics, I could not figure out how you cleared the frame enough to pull the chassis out. Then, I read you had already yanked the tank.

The tank requires you to lift the body a solid four plus feet high because you have to get the battery and storage cubby to clear the top of the tank.

I would suggest pulling the tank first to anybody considering this as you can see from Bill's pics....the body does not have to go all that high in the air.

On a convertible you really want to pull the doors and install the side brace from the latch striker to the hinge post. The coupe is not as big of a deal, but you will lighten the load considerably with the doors removed.

So....any new pics of the frame detailed, etc?

 

[matchframe]

Thanks Chris,

I really have not done very much since pulling the body except for documenting everything before pulling it all apart. (Must be the engineer in me) The frame is in execellent shape, absolutely no rust. Much better than I expected. I have stripped down the body more, pulled the dash out so I can get to the wiring and other things. Next step, I will be pulling the wiring harness to be replaced. I had found that most of the wiring was brittle.

I will post some pictures of the progress soon.

I really would recommend pulling the fuel tank to anyone planning a frame-off. The body only needs to be lifted about 2 feet to clear the engine when the frame is pulled out.

Bill

 

[Nomad78SA]

Looks like a lot of fun ahead. I pulled my body 3 years ago and I just am starting to wrap things up kinda. Good luck and have fun
Neil in Tenn

 

[matchframe]

Neil,

I would love to hear what all you did in your restoration. If you have some pictures, I would love to see them!

Bill

 

[KANE]

WOW-

Looks great! It'll be a few years before the Kraken is ready for a body off resto/mod/proceedure. My daily driver is coming along. The z28 is looking pretty good, with the paint and light repairs. Next comes the new car......

Again, the documentation is wonderful! Without people like you and Chris, so much of the hobby would just be lost. No pictures makes for telling some one a better way just that much harder!

 

[matchframe]

Framewerx

I am almost ready to take the frame to the Powdercoat people to do their thing. I have not yet recieved a firm quote yet, but I have made my mind up to have it powdercoated....How many chances will their be to do this to the frame?

Also, since my Vette came from the factory as an automatic, I will weld the clutch linkage bracket to the frame....just in case. I will probably never use it, because if I do decide one day to go manual, I will most likely use a hydraulic clutch, but it never hurts to have the braket anyway.

I will post some pics of the progress later!

Bill

 

[69MyWay]

Bill,

Before you get it coated, you might take it to a local welding shop and let them sew up the rest of the frame welds to once solid joint. You can also have them guesset the frame according to GM racing specs.

Get in touch with TZracer. He has the original GM power book specs to make the frame rock solid. Then get it coated, and you will have the ultimate backbone to build your ride on.

 

[matchframe]

Great Idea!

Would just a regular welding shop be able to guesset the frame, or do I need to look for a shop that specializes I frame set ups?

There are several shops I know around here that fabricate specialty frames, such as offroad, hotrod, and racing frames. They would probably be pretty pricey though. What would you recommend?

Bill

 

[69MyWay]

Anybody handy with a welder should be able to do the trick.

 

[matchframe]

A Welding We Will Go.....

I was last certified for welding in 1984, just before I left the shipyards. That was about the last time I did any serious welding, only dabled in it since. I think I will give it a try.

I was looking at the welds that the factory did, man they must have had it going through the line fast. Only spot welded about 8 to 10 inches apart. The flux was not even chipped off in most places! If we had done that when we were fabricating tug boats, and barges, we would have been fired. Every bulkhead, even the inside ones had to have at least a double pass, chipped and ground even.

I will take some before, during and after pictures, and post them as I take them.

 

[matchframe]

This is what the frame looks like now.

 

[matchframe]

This is how the factory welded the frame together. Just spotted it along the way.

 

[matchframe]

Powdercoat Quote

I recieved the quote for powdercoating the frame this afternoon. To blast and coat it will be $325. They will even come pick up the frame and deliver it for $40. I think I will use my brother's lowboy trailer and save the 40 bucks however.

I have ALOT of work to do before I take it to be powdercoated. I will post pictures along the way.

 

[matchframe]

Ready-Set-Weld!

I have been working on getting everything setup for doing some welding to the frame. When I was ready to start working on the frame, I quickley discovered that when my garage was wired, the 220 was wired for 30 amps. My welder requires 50 amps. I did not catch this when the electricians were wiring the garage. To make a really long story short, I finished wiring in the 220, 50 amp circuit yesterday. Crawling through the attic, I think I may have lost a few pounds, it was sooo hot up there.

NOW, I can start welding.

 

[matchframe]

I started welding the top side of the frame this afternoon! Took me a couple of passes to regain the hang of it. But like riding a bike, does not take long to get back into the groove. I am using 3/32 6013 rods so I can get the best looking weld possible. I started out with 3/32 6011 rods, but the splatter was making it look like a sloppy job, which it was at first.

One big mistake I made, I was wearing cut-off jeans, and now I have a nice sunburn on my legs. :eek
I should have known better! Oh well, live and learn.

I will post some pics of the frame later.

Bill