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Lifter noise...adjusting...

youwish2bme

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2003
Messages
471
Location
Clayton,NC.
Corvette
White 66 vert
Since I've bought the vette (3 months) the lifters have been getting louder and louder.. I thought that hydraulic lifters were pretty much set and forget???? The are to the point that I want to do something about it now!! What should I do now??? Dave..
 
Are you sure they are not solids?

How is your oil pressure ? pull the valve covers and make sure your getting oil up there

And are you sure its not coming from the bottom of the motor or is it just that there clacking?
 
IH2LOSE, my oil pressure is still good and it sounds if it is a clacking noise from just under the valve covers. I haven't pulled them yet I wanted to know what to look for/ do once I have them off. I'm very mechanically inclined I just don't know jack about engines... As you work in the HVAC world I work on medical instrumentation so I'm very electro-mechanical just need guidance...thanks.. Dave..
 
check als rockers for correct lubrication. that needs to be checked with a running engine (or at least pull ignition cable and give t a kick with the starter...) friend of mine had that problem and one of the oil channels was almost closed.....also noise coming out of the valvetrain.
 
The diagnostics are not so easey to exsplain on this,I would recomend a trip to an auto parts store or barns and noble to get a service manual, I have several manuals I always refer to before starting a project weather I have doen it 100 times or if I am doing it for the first time.I have a manual called CORVETTE 1966 TO 1982 I can scan in the pages for you then email them to you if you want.

Most hydrulic lifter once adjusted STAY adjusted unless wrong rockers or those poly lock down are used and installed improper.
 
Also what do you know of the motor? tell us or post a picture of whats under the valve covers Is it all junked up or clean as a whip just oiley.Have you used any special oils in the motor of flushed the motor .
 
Dave, Since they changed the configuration of the website, I wanted to post one of my valve adjusment threads. If you can find it, (my name) look for something about "EOIC" in the article. That should help you with the valve adjustments. Now as far as a "valve tick" in the engine, just hope the tick goes away when the vavles are adjusted. If the tick is still there, it's probably a burnt piston. The slapping noise from the skirts moving from one direction (down) to the next (up) is the "tick" you hear. But first do a simple valve adjust. If you can't find my valve adjustment article in the archives, ask the webmaster how to go back farther looking for past posts of mine. If they are wiped out for space, then ask for a walk through here, and I will give you the steps in my next post if need be.
 
IH2LOSE, I know what you mean about having a procedure is nice, to bad I didn't go to Barnes and Noble while I was out. The wifey says you want to go in as we walk by and I say nope. Once again hind site is 20/20. Oh well. The engine appears to be a 327 casting date 62. It has 350 heads (double hump) and 350 intake. I have only since I bought the car changed the oil, filter, plug wires, plugs, no problems. I worked on the dash lights last week and all hell broke loose. Ya I know they can't be related but since then I've developed a miss out of the passenger side bank and the lifters seem to be noiser. TICK TICK TICK. I've added no "special additives". When I jumped on your post about tune ups I replaced the rotor, cap, condensor, points and vacuum can to correct the miss issue. Still working on that. The ticking lifters are really bothering me though.
Cntrhub, I will search the archieves soon... Dave...
 
also with the car ideling take a long handled screw driver and set one end9the handle end in you ear) and then the other on top of the valve cover and feel your way along to see what side is the noiseyest the witch one is the noisest,

NO KIDDING remeber your leaning your head in to a dangerous area,NO LOOSE HAIR OR CLOTHES that could get stuck in the fan or any turning parts.
 
It seems that 7 and 8 are the loudest when I changed the plugs 8 was really fouled. I hope I don't have to tear into this engine. I think my better half would have a small problem with that as today I spent about 2k on it new 17X7 TTII's, adjustable timing light and a dwell meter... I still have the standard squid buzz cut so no long hair her. Also it's amazing that a long screw driver is so effective as a engine scope... Once I set the timing and dwell I will delve into the noisy lifter issue it's pouring down rain right now so without a AIRPACK to breathe with I can't set either. I'll have to wait until tomorrow for it to dry out to see if the miss is gone. It only occurs between 2500 and 3000 under load. It's never done it when you just rev the engine. Is it a good idea to go ahead and buy and new set of valve cover gaskets? or are they reusable??? Dave..
 
New gaskets.Have you done a wind test yet to see if 8 has low comprestion?

Also while the car is running if you talke off the 8 plug wire does the engine change as if if cylender was firing correct and you pulled the plug wire you would see a noticable miss if no noticable miss then cylender is not fireing.

Do I understand correct that the tic is only around under load?
I hope some one els chimes in before tomorow with more knowledge then me on this
 
I haven't done a compression test yet I need to one, buy a gauge or borrow one from someone locally. The miss only occurs under load the noisy lifters are evident at idle with the hood up. Hood down it's not as noticable. Maybe I just need someone to listen to it, it may be fine. As for the miss would it be okay to disconnect #8 and drive it around the block to see if that's where the miss is coming from or would that cause bigger issues???Dave..
 
Dave, Nope, just cash out and get new gaskets. What you don't want, is an oil leak down the cover and onto the exhaust headers and start to burn or catch fire. You should invest, borrow, or rent a "leak down tester" and check that #8 cylinder. Of course check the rest, but you can tell what will need the most work once you take a reading. You'll hear air leaking out the carb (intake valve) or the exhaust muffler(exhaust valve) or the breather vent (rings). Sounds like you're due for a complete tear down. Forget the "snake oil" repairs to fill those so called wear marks on the cylinder walls. If that plug was gas fouled, that might be a minor problem. But if it's oil fouled (still shinny if you look at the old plug now) it's tear down time.
Put the timing light on any plug wire and rev the engine. Make sure it has a constant light beam. If it's intermittent, it could be the condensor in the distributor going south. That might be your misfire........under load or no load.
 
As for the miss would it be okay to disconnect #8 and drive it around the block

NO!
Follow what he is saying with the timing light.You only need to pull the wire and see if the enging changes it tune,hen you put it back on
 
Just went out into the garage and looked at the old plugs, All were shiney around the threads but the anode and electrode look dry but pitted and look to have a carbon build up on them?? The one I pulled out of #8 looks/looked the worst with some crap on the anode. As for the condensor I replaced it last night along with the rest of the usual stuff in the dist. It stopped raining so I may go try out my new timing light and dwell meter.. Dave..
 
Not a good sign Dave. I think you'll find it will be #8 oil fouling that is giving you the misfire. #7 might be on it's way out too. Go out and play with your new tools, and get aquainted with the turn-up procudure. Give the engine the 'ol dwell and crack the distributor shaft to time up the timing marks. Then take the car out for a quick drive. Break for a snack or whatever, to let the engine cool off. Then go right to the #8 plug and pull it out. Check it for oil at the porcelain..... This being your worst fouled plug. If it's there (oil) with just that little run around the block, you might as well start thinking about what you want to do with the car. Either commit and do the engine overhaul, or just keep it all together and drive it on short weekend trips... knowing you'll have to change out that #8 (and/or #7) occasionally.
 
It doesn't smoke going down the highway or anything. So is it that the rings are shot??? I thought that if the rings were shot it would be smoking a lot and all of the time... So should I just plan on pulling the engine this winter and doing a complete rebuild... Dave.
 
Here are the two scenarios for engine smoke. You had the first one right. Constant smoke will cause smoke out the exhaust pipe and if you pulled the crankcase breather off, it would also smoke there. This will be caused by bad rings. The second smoke effect will be valve guides. This will take a little rear view mirror work for you, or a second pair of eyes following you at the back of your car. When you lift on the throttle, the engine will cause a suction effect. When this happens, the valves will be open and the vacuum caused by the pistons going down, will pull oil from the worn valve guides. When you accelerate again, a puff of smoke will emerge from the exhaust pipe, and cause a bellow of smoke for just an instant. Now even though doing this will immediately show a worn valve guide, it does not eliminate the constant suction going on at every intake stroke when you just motor along. It is constantly burning away oil. You just don't see it that much when you're on the throttle. It's being burned though on every stroke.
A Compression Test is like ordering a pizza. A Leak Down Test is like making a pizza from scratch. It just popped in my head for a lame analogy. But you will get the full picture with a leak down test. You'll know exactly what's going on inside the engine as far as what is, and what is not sealing properly.
Of course, it won't tell you the guides are worn. This will take disassembly of the heads, and making accurate measurements of the valve movement, to and fro against the guide.
If the leak down pushes a lot of air out the breather tube, then yes, rebuild the the whole engine from the bottom up.
If you want to just pull the heads, guide and valve replacement will be the cheap fix. When you put the heads back on, leak down the engine again with just torquing the heads back on. No push rods in or anything else. Just install the heads and take another leak down test.
You'll accomplish two things. One will be the integrity of the head job. Meaning, no leaks from the exhaust ports or intake ports. Simply stretch a balloon over the ports and watch the air movement against each port hole. Very little should cause the ballon to move too far out. The second test will be the rings again. If you are reading over say, 5 to 9% leak down (with the new V-Job), you can run the engine for little while longer. 2% leak down is considered ideal on a well built engine.
 
Could also be an intake-to-head gasket failure at the bottom of one or more port openings, sucking in oil/vapors from the lifter valley and oiling the plugs.
:beer
 

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