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Lifting the Vette

  • Thread starter Thread starter nmacdonald
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nmacdonald

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Any recommnedations on lifting my Vette for oil changes and such? I know there are "lift marks" on each side front and back. But I seem to recall others talking about body twisting and such.

Is there a good safe way to lift the car to get all 4 tires are off the ground using a standard floor jack? Or is there a better way?

As always....
Thanks
 
How 'bout if I tell you how I've done it... ;)

I have lifted the entire side of the car from just one of the jacking points. When you lift from either the front or the rear jacking point, once a wheel leaves the ground, it's not long before the other follows.

To get both front wheels off the ground at once, I lift from the crossmember once I get it high enough to get a floor jack under. A couple of pieces of plywood, one at each front tire, will usually raise the front high enough.

To get both rear wheels off the ground at the same time, I utilize a homemade piece on my floor jack saddle and lift from the differential.

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Be sure you have at least one of the front wheels chocked, preferably both wheels. Same goes for the rear wheels when you're lifting both fronts. Hell, anytime you lift a car you should chock the wheels. ;)

Sometimes I drive the front up on my Rhino ramps and then lift the rear. I then place jackstands under the rear and go around to the front and lift it off the ramps and put it on jackstands too.

Always use jackstands when working under a car! :CAC
 
Here's how I lift mine using the recommendation of Richard Newton: using a floor jack, lift on a 12 inch long 2x2 (to spread out the load) on the steel ridge at the center of the car between the two jacking points. With one side lifted place jack stands front and back at the jacking points. Go to the other side and repeat. The only thing I've noticed is that the car is so stiff it only sits on three of the jack stands. One of the things that concerns me is if I am going to crack some fiberglass or something by lifting in between the jack points. That is why I place the 2x2 between the floor jack and the frame rail. I like to trust so called experts, but there are so many things in Newton's book that are incorrect, some times I wonder. The first time I did this, I jacked real slow. Nothing cracked or snapped. Maybe it would be better if one jacked just on the front jack place? But then where do you place the jack stands? I am leary of jacking on the differential, because I've had cars where the operator's manual specifically says do not lift by the differential. Let's have more opinions!!
 
I got the book 101 projects for your C4, and in the book they say to think like NASCAR, just jack it on the frame rail in the middle.

I did just that using my little floor jack, being careful of the cables and such behind the rail and had no problems at all. Everything up in one shot.
 
bmwgsa said:
...being careful of the cables and such behind the rail...
Yeah, something to keep in mind when using the jack points, or jacking anywhere along the frame rails... the fuel lines run along one side, and I think the brakes run along the other?? Anyway, make sure you're not pinching any lines!

I, too, have lifted mine up at either the front or the rear jack point, and been able to lift the car up high enough to get a jack stand under the other point on the same side. I make sure my doors and hood are shut, and the top is secure.

Talk about a stiff frame...
 
I always use a block of wood on top of the jack. It halps spread the load and protect from scratching the frame rail.
 
Dean:

I took the same approach as you when lifting from the center. I was VERY careful the first time I did that. No problems. It is very important to be sure the saddle from the jack does not damage the brake lines. Otherwise, this technique seems to work just fine.
 
Thanks folks. This has been really helpful.
 

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