6
64cat
Guest
I am going to look at a '66 vette tomorrow. I need to know where to look for the engine #. Please help me ...
There are several numbers of importance to some people. You may be thinking of the VIN derivative on the pad at the front-passenger side of the block. Look where the head meets the block. You may have to wipe it clean.
Here's an example.
Obviously, not all the numbers are showing here.
There are other items of interest like casting numbers, date codes, etc. on various components. Some of the numbers-matching guys around here can help.
Good luck.
Here's an example.
Obviously, not all the numbers are showing here.
There are other items of interest like casting numbers, date codes, etc. on various components. Some of the numbers-matching guys around here can help.
Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #3
6
64cat
Guest
Location of engine # on a '66 Vette
I need to know where to look to find the "H" code to see if the engine is what the owner says it is.
I need to know where to look to find the "H" code to see if the engine is what the owner says it is.
Vettehead Mikey
Well-known member
The engine stamping pad is located in front of the right hand (passenger side) cylinder head. That's a picture of one further up the thread.
If you're not familiar with these cars and are considering buying one based on it having the original engine, you may want to have someone inspect the car for you. Restamped (phony) pads are not that rare.
If you're not familiar with these cars and are considering buying one based on it having the original engine, you may want to have someone inspect the car for you. Restamped (phony) pads are not that rare.
magicv8
Well-known member
The stamp is in the same place for BB and SB cars (as noted above).
The casting number is on the flange on the back of the engine in raised numbers - try to move them with a screwdriver - I have seen tales of woe - on the web from owners whose numbers matching engine had the numbers (forged in plastic) fall of the back of the engine at a high pressure car wash.
The casting date for an SB is also on the rear flange, but on the BB it is on the RH side under the exhaust manifold.
To see these items on an assembled car - you generally need to take a flashlight, small mirror, small wire brush, and possibly solvent and rags.
Even then - an engine with a good casting and date may not be correct - as stated above - since the pad may have been restamped with the correct date, engine code, and serial number.
A Tonawanda only BB stamped date code starts witrh a T followwed by ddmmcc where the cc is the engine code (e.g. IL=390hp/427ci 4 speed) - next to it in smaller characters is the last part of the vin that is stamped on the plate below the glove compartment door. On an all original car the same partial vin is stamped on the trans and on the frame.
Take the advice given above - if you are looking for an original car, take along an "expert".
The casting number is on the flange on the back of the engine in raised numbers - try to move them with a screwdriver - I have seen tales of woe - on the web from owners whose numbers matching engine had the numbers (forged in plastic) fall of the back of the engine at a high pressure car wash.
The casting date for an SB is also on the rear flange, but on the BB it is on the RH side under the exhaust manifold.
To see these items on an assembled car - you generally need to take a flashlight, small mirror, small wire brush, and possibly solvent and rags.
Even then - an engine with a good casting and date may not be correct - as stated above - since the pad may have been restamped with the correct date, engine code, and serial number.
A Tonawanda only BB stamped date code starts witrh a T followwed by ddmmcc where the cc is the engine code (e.g. IL=390hp/427ci 4 speed) - next to it in smaller characters is the last part of the vin that is stamped on the plate below the glove compartment door. On an all original car the same partial vin is stamped on the trans and on the frame.
Take the advice given above - if you are looking for an original car, take along an "expert".
Never heard of an "H" code Corvette. What's the "H" code supposed to be?
Corvette pads have 2 letters up to 69, then 3 letters afterwards. Some examples: RF, RE, RD, etc. for 62/63. 3 Letter codes CKW, etc. Chuck
Corvette pads have 2 letters up to 69, then 3 letters afterwards. Some examples: RF, RE, RD, etc. for 62/63. 3 Letter codes CKW, etc. Chuck
- Thread starter
- #7
3
396 RAT
Guest
?????????
Engine suffix" for 1966 that start with H
HE- Manual 327
HH- Air 327
HR- Automatic/Air 327
HD- SHP 327
HP- power steering 327
Engine suffix" for 1966 that start with H
HE- Manual 327
HH- Air 327
HR- Automatic/Air 327
HD- SHP 327
HP- power steering 327
64cat,
Something to keep in mind when looking at the block numbers is the machine marks on the pad. If you look at the picture 67Heaven posted you can faintly see lines in the metal just to the right of the 71 that run up and down as the picture is posted. Chevrolet used a broach to machine the block face which leaves these kind of straight machine tool marks. Most rebuilders use a mill which is a much less expensive operation and leaves a curved line that would run side to side as the picture is posted.
Some high end cheaters will have a bogus block broached before restamping so this is not a sure fire way to tell if a block is restamped. It just eliminates the obvious fakes.
If numbers matching is important to you or has an impact on the sellers asking price you'd be best served having someone who is familiar with Corvettes check the car out for you. A local NCRS chapter could put you in contact with someone who could give you help/advice about numbers as well as places to look for body repairs, frame rust or birdcage rust.
Eugene
Something to keep in mind when looking at the block numbers is the machine marks on the pad. If you look at the picture 67Heaven posted you can faintly see lines in the metal just to the right of the 71 that run up and down as the picture is posted. Chevrolet used a broach to machine the block face which leaves these kind of straight machine tool marks. Most rebuilders use a mill which is a much less expensive operation and leaves a curved line that would run side to side as the picture is posted.
Some high end cheaters will have a bogus block broached before restamping so this is not a sure fire way to tell if a block is restamped. It just eliminates the obvious fakes.
If numbers matching is important to you or has an impact on the sellers asking price you'd be best served having someone who is familiar with Corvettes check the car out for you. A local NCRS chapter could put you in contact with someone who could give you help/advice about numbers as well as places to look for body repairs, frame rust or birdcage rust.
Eugene
- Thread starter
- #10
R
ro.co2
Guest
I've got a question, I've got a 65 convt. 250h.p. ,auto. ,a/c car. When I bought it I was told I had a hQ car but it appears that my pad has F0712HC to the right and 120992 faintly to the left which is the last of my vin#. I've had little luck trying to look up that HC code so any help would be appreciated.Roland.
Don't forget HT like my '66- 327-350HP w/mt. There is also HO- 327-300HP w/at. for 1966.
ro.co2- The HC suffix I find says '65-'68 327-250 or 275HP w/pg. Also '69 350-250HP w/mt. All passenger car applications.
Dick
ro.co2- The HC suffix I find says '65-'68 327-250 or 275HP w/pg. Also '69 350-250HP w/mt. All passenger car applications.
Dick
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ro.co2 said:
Your VIN derivative stamping on the pad should start with "5" (for 1965) - should be "5120992".
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