Locations for Lingenfelter shops....

[WhalePirot]

Don't forget the camera. .

I am looking for an inexpensive camera mount; probably to bolt into the 'targa' bolts. Maybe Ken would volunteer to hold my vidcam in or out of the wagon.

Would the aftermarket heads like TPIS, AFR or Edelbrock heads be a better choice than to have your stock heads worked on?

I went with the proven formula of a long-established shop, hence the Dart heads.

I wish I were qualified to answer the head question, but I suspect that the choice lies in what you expect from the engine; how you will use it. Such were the primary questions this 25 yr.+ shop asked me. HP motors is all Speed-O-Motive has done for those decades. I do know a great head guy, but I suspect he will ask me the same questions when I redo my L-83 into a stroker for my '55 Effy. I expect to use the stock Vette heads.

I had my stock heads reworked for flow and the 2.20/1.60 valves many years ago, when it ran the Xfire w/ larger TBs and a warmer cam, plus headers. It ran a lot better than stock, but the small ports limited what any head would do.

I am absolutely sold on the BB-like stroke of the 406. The 383 is similar, but I am a low-end grunt lover, while loving the sound of SBC revs north of 7000 (which I cannot do). With the Nash engaged, the car turns 1:3, tach vs speedo, hence I expect the car is capable of nearly 190 mph in 7th gear, at fuel shutoff. I think I have the power to pull that high.
Gotta find a track.

Meanwhile, sounds like MaxRevs should get an e-mail.

 

[Moonunit 451]

This is me personally but if you were to go through the work of taking the engine out for whatever reason, it's a great opportunity to make sure it has more cubic inches when it goes back in. Whether you stay 350 or go 383, it's still the same work to put the motor back in the car.

There are some hot 355's without a doubt. If I recall correctly, you got the 87. Want low 12's or 11's? There is a PROVEN setup. and I have it. Just because Lingenfelter doesn't want to mess with early C4's anymore doesn't mean the formula has quit working.

It's out there for you to have. It's all a matter of how much you wanna spend. Are there qiucker faster setups? I think so, but how much do you care about low 11's or 10's?

I've been where you are! There are HUNDREDS of choices. How much are you prepared to spend? Add 30- 40% to that and you will be happy. I did it on the cheap cheap financially and it was well over 10K to get the 3 sec. or so, BUT I started with an 86. BIG DIFFERNCE!

I know, I know, It's Not going Back Together Stock. Take your time, do your own work if you can, otherwise, add 5+ to that 10 G's. Is it worth it to ya? Do you have the money? If not, buy a crate motor and be happy for 4 G's.

Otherwise, I KNOW the COOKIECUTTER answer to your questions, as do MANY others

 

[Edmond]

I'm going to do mine slowly. I'm going to collect parts and shop around for used parts. I see no reason to get a brand new intake manifold. A used one will be just as good. I see no reason to buy new heads when the ones I have can be worked on.

However, there are parts that I will not buy used. I will not buy used electrical parts or valve train parts.

Honestly, I probably won't even go out to the track. I just want something to drive around town with occassional trips on the expressway. I would want something with 350 HP and 400 twist. Is that too much to ask for?:L:L:L

My plans so far are:

port the intake manifold
port the plenum
large tube runners
1.6 roller rockers
Vortex Ram Air intake
TPIS long tube headers
redo the whole suspension with a package from VB&P
custom prom
cam
new oil pump
new water pump
heads

I think it can be done by the time driving season starts next year. I figure that I'll keep looking in the classifieds online for the parts and see what comes up. Save some here, save some there and do the work myself when I can.

 

[Moonunit 451]

I'm going to do mine slowly. I'm going to collect parts and shop around for used parts. I see no reason to get a brand new intake manifold. A used one will be just as good. I see no reason to buy new heads when the ones I have can be worked on.

However, there are parts that I will not buy used. I will not buy used electrical parts or valve train parts.

Honestly, I probably won't even go out to the track. I just want something to drive around town with occassional trips on the expressway. I would want something with 350 HP and 400 twist. Is that too much to ask for?:L:L:L

My plans so far are:

port the intake manifold
port the plenum
large tube runners
1.6 roller rockers
Vortex Ram Air intake
TPIS long tube headers
redo the whole suspension with a package from VB&P
custom prom
cam
new oil pump
new water pump
heads

I think it can be done by the time driving season starts next year. I figure that I'll keep looking in the classifieds online for the parts and see what comes up. Save some here, save some there and do the work myself when I can.

In a word to answer your quetion Edmond-YES. I'm sure you new that already
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Sorry Vetteboy, thought yo had the 87 for a minute, you NEED an 87 or better block to save on machining costs :cry Steal your Bro's while he's drunk some night

 

[Vettefan87]

In a word to answer your quetion Edmond-YES. I'm sure you new that already
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Sorry Vetteboy, thought yo had the 87 for a minute, you NEED an 87 or better block to save on machining costs :cry Steal your Bro's while he's drunk some night

No, my motor has been through enough already...:L I am curious as to what is really different between the 86, and 87 block?

I wish I could go back and completely do everything differently...although the car could still be sitting today... It has its pro's and con's of getting it put back together stock. Oh well I will make sure he gets this thing built right, and it comes back as mean as it possibly can with the money he is going to put into it. Then for me it is a procharger... hopefully

 

[Moonunit 451]

The 87 is the first year of the roller cam block. You can machine the 86 block for a roller, but it's just as cheap to get an 87 block.

 

[vetteboy86]

Is this something that needs to be done in order to build a 383?

 

[Vettefan87]

The 87 is the first year of the roller cam block. You can machine the 86 block for a roller, but it's just as cheap to get an 87 block.

What is the main difference between the roller, and the non roller blocks? What is the benefit?

 

[Hrtbeat1]

What is the main difference between the roller, and the non roller blocks? What is the benefit?

Non Roller blocks use flat tappet lifters (either hydraulic or solid) and a flat tappet cam .... works alright but a lot of friction.

Roller blocks use roller cams and roller lifters (again solid of hydraulic) reduced friction. Cam changes in a roller block are easier also. Remove the pushrods and spin the cam all the way over .... the lobes of the cam will push the lifters up out of the way ... there should be enough resistance to hold them up. Then just slide the cam out the front of the block.

With a non roller block you have to pull each one of the lifters .... which can be a PITA. It never fails there is always one or two that just don't want to come out.

I'm not exactally sure but I think when Chevy went to the roller block, they also changed the rear main seal from two piece to a one piece seal.

 

[Vettefan87]

So would it be worth it for Craig to get his block machined for the roller cam?

 

[Moonunit 451]

You should be able to find a roller block for $250-$300, my understanding is that the parts and machining will cost you that if I recall correctly. There is a conversion kit you need to buy.

 

[Edmond]

Check out Jason:


www.vette2vette.com

He has always hooked me up good. He's about an hour west of Joliet, Illinois.

 

[WhalePirot]

So would it be worth it for Craig to get his block machined for the roller cam?

I doubt it. Roller camshafts have a friction reduction, delivering a bit more 'free' power, but is pricey.

A roller can have steeper ramps on the camshaft lobes, allowing for a more aggressive grind, as the rollers' lower friction lets you run stiffer springs, closing the valves faster on those steeper ramps.

I was not aware of roller vs non-roller difference either, nor of any required machining.

 

[maxrevs85]

The cost to convert to a roller is about $500 dollars , includes cam and lifters. I would rather spend my money on parts that aid reliability. Like, going with billet steel main caps . If the block is a roller already, fine. Others wise the flat tappet hydraulic cam will be good. after all the've been around along time. These TPI motors are not high revs motors, and aggressive cams are hard to tune with FI.

 

[maxrevs85]

Let me correct myself . Roller cams do offer reliabilty over flat tappets. They do have longevity. On a limited buget you have to choose wisely.