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greenstingray
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Finally got to root cause of the problem. Stuck valve in ABS pump. Replaced pump, and bleed the brake system with a pressure bleeder. Everything works fine now. Thanks for all your help.
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how did you find out that it was a stuck value in the ABS pump?Finally got to root cause of the problem. Stuck valve in ABS pump. Replaced pump, and bleed the brake system with a pressure bleeder. Everything works fine now. Thanks for all your help.
how did you find out that it was a stuck value in the ABS pump?
Thanks. it looks like mine is bad also. I can't find one on ebay. can I ask how much you paid for it?
ABS has nothing to do with maintaining fluid pressure. It cannot create line pressure under ANY circumstances. It has only something to do with fluid pressure RELEASE. And it cannot release pressure on one wheel and allow pressure to maintain on the other, without ANOTHER pre-existing problem already causing line pressure discrepancies between left and right.
What about a stuck valve my pump is bosche 202 pump two lines for the front one for both wheels in the back. And my pump did have a stuck valve. The guy I calledl Gordon Kilabrew used to work at the factory, look him up. He said its rare but does happen. I changed out the pump and the car is fine now how do you explain that then.
The stuck valve if closed would only hold pressure that was created by pressing the pedal. If stuck open, it would not allow pressure build-up in those lines.
The ABS pump is not a 'pump'.
The ABS device is a hydraulic valve controller, and it does NOT in any way increase line pressure. NONE. It only controls valves.
The ABS controller does 3 things in EVERY ABS car -
It registers line pressure at the valve,
It releases line pressure when activated (by opening the valve),
It closes the valve back up, and allows pressure that was there before (by the depressed brake pedal) to be restored. It does not in any way increase pressure beyond what existed before it released the pressure. If there was no pressure before, it couldn't 'create' it afterwards either.
Even if functioning perfectly, it probably cannot exactly restore all pressure that was there before ABS kicked in.
There's no way it can act like a check valve either, because the valve is sort of 'in parallel' with the fluid line, NOT 'in series' with the line. An accumulator is what the valve leads into, kind of like a blister in the line.
I found one web page that said the 3rd step is 'Pressure INcrease' (wrong word). AND, in the same paragraph, it said the Control Module allows 'driver-applied' pressure to RESUME to what it was before the valve opened, if and only if the brake pedal is still pressed. 'Driver-applied' means let off the pedal, the pressure drops. No way the pressure can even be 'retained'. All other pages accurately described it.
There's NO ABS function, or MALfunction, that will maintain hydraulic pressure if the pedal lets off. ABS is all about releasing pressure, working OR broken.
I have no clue why yours works with a new 'Pump'. BPM? I am totally clueless, and would REALLY like to see what you had going on.
You said the ABS light is working at start-up, and that you hear it do the self-test when you start moving. That normally means everything is as it should be.
I see no diagnostic situation in the FSM where the ABS BPM - brake PRESSURE (not pump) modulator, which controls (not creates) fluid pressure, can MAINTAIN that pressure when the pedal is let off.
FSM section for 'Brake line restriction' does not indicate BPM failure, only physical inspection of the brake lines.
Finally, the base braking mode descri
edit: I found a possible explanation here...
ASR Acceleration Slip Regulation CAN apply pressure to the REAR wheel calipers, WITHOUT brake pedal pressure, and if ASR is active.
If the previous owner (or a mechanic) has hacked something, or some damage has been done, that could explain dragging front brakes. That is SO much a stretch...
Did you have a 'Service ASR' light?