Long ride to work yesterday – Three lights came on and five codes!

[Crispyc21]

I’ve known about some of the issues for some time and I’m waiting for warmer weather to do some further investigation. Here are my problems in order of importance to me.

Car: 97, 66k miles, auto

1. No codes for this one but I still need to know what is wrong. For some reason my rear left tire is making a squeaking\rubbing sound. It’s hard to describe. It doesn’t happen all the time but it is happening more and more often. I first thought it was a warped rotor which was rubbing against the break pad but I don’t get any vibration when putting on the breaks nor does the sound stop. I’ve also turned the car left and right when the wheel was squeaking and it stopped when I turned it in one direction (I forgot which direction).
After doing some research it might be the bearing. Is there any way to test if that’s it? Pricing? Let me know what you think.

- I really don’t want to drive the car until I fix this problem so any help is appreciated.

2. While driving to work my check engine light came one (light number 1). I checked the codes and saw 10-PCM: P1416H code is "Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 2." I cleared this code and it has not come back yet. But it’s only been a day.

- Is there anything I can do to help it not come back, and if it does, how do I fix it?

3. Every now and then I will get the Service ABS and Service Traction Control lights (lights two and three). It does not come on all the time but will when I hit some small bumps. For some reason it’s fine with the big ones. I know it’s not the wheel speed because there is no way the wheel is hopping. The other day I went over a rumble strip in the road and it set the codes. (28-TCS: C1226 - LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation)

- What might I need to do fix this issue? Any tests?

Other codes:

PCM: P1571, that code is "Traction Control Torque Request Circuit". – I heard this is normal for 97s

80-Radio: U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM – The radio works fine but I can’t get rid of the code. It just comes back after clearing it.

A6-SCM: B2606 - Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure – Not sure about this one but that might be why my memory sometimes puts my seat in the wrong spot.

 

[c4c5specialist]

After doing some research it might be the bearing. Is there any way to test if that’s it? Pricing? Let me know what you think.

If you jack up the rear end and you cannot find any play in the wheel when moving it in and out at the 12 and 6oclock position, the bearing is not always the issue. If you have a 34mm socket, I would also consider retorquing the axle nut to 130 ft lbs and road test the vehicle.

2. While driving to work my check engine light came one (light number 1). I checked the codes and saw 10-PCM: P1416H code is "Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 2." I cleared this code and it has not come back yet. But it’s only been a day.

The P1416 is telling you that a valve for the air injection emissions system is rusted shut, setting this code. You will have to remove the intake manifold to get to it, and it will take about 2 hours to do. This will repair it.

3. Every now and then I will get the Service ABS and Service Traction Control lights (lights two and three). It does not come on all the time but will when I hit some small bumps. For some reason it’s fine with the big ones. I know it’s not the wheel speed because there is no way the wheel is hopping. The other day I went over a rumble strip in the road and it set the codes. (28-TCS: C1226 - LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation)

YOur C1226 is most likely the wheel speed sensor harness, at the right front wheel, which connects the wiring from the ABS system to the wheel speed sensor located at the left front wheel. The harness is about $50 and it only takes about 15 mins to change. I would suggest doing both front wheels, as if the right one is setting, the left one is not far off from setting C1225.

PCM: P1571, that code is "Traction Control Torque Request Circuit". – I heard this is normal for 97s

Yes, completely normal, as long as it is H for history, NOT Current.


80-Radio: U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM – The radio works fine but I can’t get rid of the code. It just comes back after clearing it.

You will notice that these communications codes are normally only H for history, and never C for current. I would disregard these unless you get a C.


A6-SCM: B2606 - Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure – Not sure about this one but that might be why my memory sometimes puts my seat in the wrong spot.

Yes, you are correct here as well. The problem with this, is that you have to replace the whole adjuster if the sensor is actually bad.
I have seen some terminal connections and pinched wiring underneath the seats, so I would recommend checking that first. It will be the rear motor on the adjuster and the 2 pin connection going in to the side of the motor. NOT the large gauge wires, the small wires.

Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Crispyc21]

Thanks for the reply.
Would you know the part numbers I need to fix the valve for the air injection emissions system and the wheel speed sensor harnesses (for both front wheels).

Have you seen any write-ups for replaceing the air injector? I'll most likely be doing this myself with basic tools.

Thanks again

 

[98TXRed]

C4C5, I also have the the air injection emissions system valve problem and also a oil pressure sensor failure (happened at the same time). Is removing the intake manifold to replace these to sensor something that a non-mechanic do or should it be left to a repair shop?

 

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,
Honestly, I believe anyone can do it.

Tools that you would need.

8mm universal socket.
10mm socket
Torque wrench that you can measure in lbs
1" combination wrench
7/8" combination wrench
Loctite 242, Blue
Intake manifold gaskets

I think that there are some writeups, but I cannot say where. I think I did one once, along time ago.

Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Crispyc21]

I jacked up the car and the rear wheel was a little wobbly, looks like I need a new bearing. Looks like next weekend I'll be doing the bearing and the check valve.

Does anyone know part numbers for the valve for the air injection emissions system and wheel speed sensor harness (for both front tires)?

Thanks again for all the info.

 

[mikes97vette]

3. Every now and then I will get the Service ABS and Service Traction Control lights (lights two and three). It does not come on all the time but will when I hit some small bumps. For some reason it’s fine with the big ones. I know it’s not the wheel speed because there is no way the wheel is hopping. The other day I went over a rumble strip in the road and it set the codes. (28-TCS: C1226 - LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation)

Fortunately I have good news on this one. I have a 97 that did the same thing. Take the front wheel off and you will see a plug behind the rotor. Unplug it. Place a little (I think this is what it is called) electrolite grease between the two plugs. I did this and I have not had a problem over a year.


Good luck

Mike

 

[Crispyc21]

HI there,
Honestly, I believe anyone can do it.

Tools that you would need.

8mm universal socket.
10mm socket
Torque wrench that you can measure in lbs
1" combination wrench
7/8" combination wrench
Loctite 242, Blue
Intake manifold gaskets

I think that there are some writeups, but I cannot say where. I think I did one once, along time ago.

Allthebest, c4c5

I would like to tackle this this weekend.
I just want to make sure I am going to order the correct parts to take care of my air check valve issue. Please let know if I need anything else. I also want to change out me front wheel speed sensor harnesses but couldn’t find the part on GMPARTSDIRECT. Does anyone know the part numbers?



#22048212 A.I.R. SYSTEM CHECK VALVE - Emission Control System Hardware (VALVE ASM) - $12.94



#12533587 Manifold Gasket GASKET KI - $40.99

Also
mikes97vette - Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try.

 

[Crispyc21]

Sorry if this is a stupid question but does someone have a picture of where this air injection emissions system check valve goes?? I know I need to take the intake manifold off to get to it. Is it by the TB??

 

[98TXRed]

Looks like the the air emission valve and oil pressure sensor are common failures / repairs; C4C5 have you been able to find those "lost" repair writeups as I have not been able to locate anything on the Web?

 

[bluecoupe]

it's a good time to put on a 2001 (Z06) style intake manifold and pickup some extra ponies.

 

[98TXRed]

Well, I figured that if I waited long enough something would happen and the the air injection emissions system valve problem seems to have healed itself ... now if only the oil pressure sensor would take care of itself everything would be back to normal!

Who said that procrastination is bad???

 

[bluecoupe]

Well, I figured that if I waited long enough something would happen and the the air injection emissions system valve problem seems to have healed itself ... now if only the oil pressure sensor would take care of itself everything would be back to normal!

Who said that procrastination is bad???

Rename your car "Christine"

 

[Dragon Daddy]

Questions. Questions.

HI there,
Honestly, I believe anyone can do it. (P1416 prob)

Hi,

Looks like I'll have to replace the P1416 check valve. Took a look at the book and the engine and I have a few questions:

1) Do I have to remove the fuel rail?
2) How do I disconnect the fuel lines to the fuel rail?
3) If I disconnect the fuel lines, are new seals required?
4) Are there coolant issues (like replacing the intake on an old Chevy V-8)?
5) Looks like I can pull the injector wiring and vacuum lines out of the way. Please confirm.
6) Looks like I'll have to remove the debris before starting to ensure engine cleanliness. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,
You leave the fuel rail and the line attached.
Simply rotate the intake over and lay on top of the windshield washer reservoir.
No coolant issues, as you would unbolt the throttle body from the intake and leave it right where it is, with the coolant hoses connected.
Yes, the injector wiring must be disconnected and the layed off to the side on both sides. This does include the TAC motor and throttle position sensor.
SIDE NOTE: Do not attempt to just pull the intake out once you have unbolted everything, as there are 2 connections at the rear of the intake. One vacuum line and the MAP sensor. Slide the intake forward slightly, and reach behind and disconnect these 2 things. The brake booster hose remains with the intake and disconnects at the booster. Just follow it around the fuel line and lay it with the intake.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Dragon Daddy]

HI there,
You leave the fuel rail and the line attached.
Simply rotate the intake over and lay on top of the windshield washer reservoir.
No coolant issues, as you would unbolt the throttle body from the intake and leave it right where it is, with the coolant hoses connected.
Yes, the injector wiring must be disconnected and the layed off to the side on both sides. This does include the TAC motor and throttle position sensor.
SIDE NOTE: Do not attempt to just pull the intake out once you have unbolted everything, as there are 2 connections at the rear of the intake. One vacuum line and the MAP sensor. Slide the intake forward slightly, and reach behind and disconnect these 2 things. The brake booster hose remains with the intake and disconnects at the booster. Just follow it around the fuel line and lay it with the intake.
Allthebest, c4c5

On a chance, I used a small plastic line to deliver some Liquid Wrench to the problem check valve. Disconnected the back side of the tube form the valve (where it is attached to the right side exhaust manifold) and blew out any excess fluid. Reassembled the unit and drove the vehicle. After a few days, the error message went away. It appears that the LW loosened up the rusted check valve. Seems to work fine so far without any other troubles.