L
ltmark
Guest
'85 coupe - I have written several threads re: idle problems and engine temp. I solved both, but may have gone too far! Replacing the coolant temp sensor fixed my idle problems, but I was also concerned about the inherent high running temp of vettes. So, I installed a 195 degree aux fan switch and ran that to my primary fan (since the aux fan is quite a bit louder that the main!) and routed the ECM fan wire - (going to ground at about 128 degrees) to the aux fan.
All was well and it ran cooler. BUT, while solving the idle problems, I was forced to learn how all the involved sensors interact to have the ECM control the cold start air/fuel ratios.
The ECM sends 5 volts to the coolant temp sensor thermister, which slowly drops as the egine warms and eventually stops at 1.5 to 2 volts when hot. However, with the 195 degree fan switch, I have discovered that the coolant temp sensor gets down to 2.3 volts and then when the fan comes on (195 degrees) and the engine temp begins to go down, the coolant sensor voltage naturally goes up, which tells the ecm that the engine is still not completely warm. Hence, the fuel/air ratio is still slightly enriched.
Although it runs great at idle and acceleration, it is sill enriched from what it should be, effecting my gas mileage! Reading another web tech article, I found that 15:1 provides the most power, but 13:1 is most economical. I don't race or hot-rod, so I prefer the 13:1!
Bottom line- I'm going to go to a 210 degree fan temp switch and see if that avoids the coolant temp sensor from always reading higher than the 1.5 to 2 volts. If so, I can still reduce the higher running temp, but also not screw up the ECM's control of the proper fuel delivery/ratios.
Hope this helps someone in troubleshooting similar issues!
All was well and it ran cooler. BUT, while solving the idle problems, I was forced to learn how all the involved sensors interact to have the ECM control the cold start air/fuel ratios.
The ECM sends 5 volts to the coolant temp sensor thermister, which slowly drops as the egine warms and eventually stops at 1.5 to 2 volts when hot. However, with the 195 degree fan switch, I have discovered that the coolant temp sensor gets down to 2.3 volts and then when the fan comes on (195 degrees) and the engine temp begins to go down, the coolant sensor voltage naturally goes up, which tells the ecm that the engine is still not completely warm. Hence, the fuel/air ratio is still slightly enriched.
Although it runs great at idle and acceleration, it is sill enriched from what it should be, effecting my gas mileage! Reading another web tech article, I found that 15:1 provides the most power, but 13:1 is most economical. I don't race or hot-rod, so I prefer the 13:1!
Bottom line- I'm going to go to a 210 degree fan temp switch and see if that avoids the coolant temp sensor from always reading higher than the 1.5 to 2 volts. If so, I can still reduce the higher running temp, but also not screw up the ECM's control of the proper fuel delivery/ratios.
Hope this helps someone in troubleshooting similar issues!




