Lower

[aboatguy]

thanks,

The only thing that worries me is the alignment adjustment.
should I count the windings to be equal left and right ?

What do you guys think should I go to the local hardware store to fetch me the bolts and washers ?

or is it better to order a kit from the well known Corvette suppliers.

When I order in the USA If have the problem that it will cost me double because of shipping and taxes and importduties. :eyerole

thanks for your help, from a nearly no-brainer called Bubba

I went for the same number of threads showing from the start however, after driving the car it was not level (left to right) so I took a couple of turns higher on the low side.
If you have import duties I would try buying local. Grade 8 bolts or the metric equivalent (9.8C?)should be fine. For a 2 inch drop you will need a bolt with a .5" or 12mm diameter that is approximately 11" long under the head. The stock bolt is 9 1/8" long overall or 8 7/8" under the head.

Good luck

Mike

 

[Jeroenvgfn]

thanks for your help,

with your measurements at hand it should do the trick.


I will post some pics when it is lower.

but that will laterthis winter, It's too cold now to work on the car.
we have 20 F overhere and my garage is arround 32 F

 

[tigmaned]

just got done changeing out the rear leaf spring bolts with ones that are 10" long. took less then one hour, didn't have to pull the tires you can reach right between the rim and fender to get the old bolt out and the new bolt in. but i do have my spare tire carries out so i have more room under my vette right now. i have 4 thread showing on the 10" bolts on both sides and it dropped my vette 1 inch give or take.
does any one else have this?- not all four corners aren't the same height between the wheel and fender rim on mine? is some thing up with my vette or are more like this do to the unibody and all?

 

[aboatguy]

just got done changeing out the rear leaf spring bolts with ones that are 10" long. took less then one hour, didn't have to pull the tires you can reach right between the rim and fender to get the old bolt out and the new bolt in. but i do have my spare tire carries out so i have more room under my vette right now. i have 4 thread showing on the 10" bolts on both sides and it dropped my vette 1 inch give or take.
does any one else have this?- not all four corners are the same height between the wheel and fender rim on mine? is some thing up with my vette or are more like this do to the unibody and all?

I have already posted about this earlier in the thread. It is common for C4s not to be level drive it around some so that it settles and then take a few turns up on the low side.

Mike

 

[tigmaned]

o.k that makes good sense to adjust each sides as needed to make level. and now that i have driven it more its settled down a little more and i am going to raise them just a little.

 

[EOLIVER]

I have a 1987 that is lowered, and while it really improved handling, it turned out to be a pain in # when entering or exiting high angeled driveways or speed bumps for that matter. Good luck

 

[tigmaned]

yeah i am going to raise it back up about 2 more threads, shes settled down a little lower then the front, i wanted them even.

 

[Larry's Yellow Rdstr]

I'm sorry I can't post pics but my digital doesn't work anymore, but the drop wasn't that impressive. A fellow Corvette owner says he can't see a difference.
One thing I noticed is an improvment in handling. The rear end seems to be more planted than before the lowering. The car used to tram going around a particular 90 degree sweeper I drive daily. I can negotiate the road about 10 ph faster and the car feels much more stable.

 

[tigmaned]

yeah me too, but i like the way it drives better now too! i have my fender to wheel set at two fingers high in front and back. faster then getting a ruler out?? i have that same thing going around corners, if while going around a corner and hitting bump in that corner the rear end seems to walk out a little?? so i'll try changeing the sway bar bushing to poly ones since my old rubber ones are almost gone and front i can see a little metal to metal at the end links, not good!!

 

[aboatguy]

yeah me too, but i like the way it drives better now too! i have my fender to wheel set at two fingers high in front and back. faster then getting a ruler out?? i have that same thing going around corners, if while going around a corner and hitting bump in that corner the rear end seems to walk out a little?? so i'll try changeing the sway bar bushing to poly ones since my old rubber ones are almost gone and front i can see a little metal to metal at the end links, not good!!

Everything I have read is that you want some rake to the car,(front lower than the rear) to maintain your high speed stability. I have my fronts even with the fender well (there is still room inside the wheel wheel for suspension travel, and l have about a finger width in the rear. My car remains stable at 160 MPH, hopefully with my future mods I can shorten the time and distance it takes to accelarate at speeds above 145, then I will be able to see what this puppy can do!
Mike

 

[sxyvet]

hi there guys,
i was just wandering are the front spring wedges thinner or thicker when you get the new lowered modified ones?

do you know what the wedges are made out?, so as i can get some made up from a special type of industrial plastic!

has any one seen any posts or websites on how to step bye step porcedure on how to lower the front at all?

thanks guys
cheers
glen
sxyvet
Australia

 

[aboatguy]

hi there guys,
i was just wandering are the front spring wedges thinner or thicker when you get the new lowered modified ones?

do you know what the wedges are made out?, so as i can get some made up from a special type of industrial plastic!

has any one seen any posts or websites on how to step bye step porcedure on how to lower the front at all?

thanks guys
cheers
glen
sxyvet
Australia

The replacement front spring wedges were much thinner than the stock rubber that I cut off of the spring.

The stock pieces were rubber, the instructions from my state that the wedges are made out of urethane.
I know that import duties are a bear however, the kits are relatively inexpensive I believe that it would be cheaper to buy the kit than to pay to have some wedges custom fabricated. My kit came with instructions, if you shoot me an email I will scan them and send you a copy.

Mike

 

[sxyvet]

hi mike,
how are you!
thanks for the reply!
i sent you an email mate!
thanks
glen
sxyvet
Australia

 

[aboatguy]

hi mike,
how are you!
thanks for the reply!
i sent you an email mate!
thanks
glen
sxyvet
Australia

I have sent replied and sent the instructions that came with my kit. It really is not difficult to drop the front. It just seems to be, in comparison with the ease of dropping the rear.

Mike

 

[aboatguy]

hi mike,
how are you!
thanks for the reply!
i sent you an email mate!
thanks
glen
sxyvet
Australia

I just read the Hawaiian Punches instructions and he seems to be a step or two.
The most important I see is cutting the spring retainers so they can secure the spring after trimming the rubber spring cushion.

Mike

 

[sxyvet]

I just read the Hawaiian Punches instructions and he seems to be a step or two.
The most important I see is cutting the spring retainers so they can secure the spring after trimming the rubber spring cushion.

Mike

hi mike,
thanks for reply again and also the email with instructions!
i appreciate it very much!
cheers
and thanks
from glen
sxyvet
Australia

 

[aboatguy]

hi mike,
thanks for reply again and also the email with instructions!
i appreciate it very much!
cheers
and thanks
from glen
sxyvet
Australia

No problem!

Mike