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MAD ELectronics and Midyears

Kid_Again

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
1,171
Location
NJ - Which exit you from?
Corvette
65 SB Roadster, 66 BB Coupe
You HAVE to deal with this outfit - the man is named Mark and he is an absolute expert on charging systems and automotive electrical information. VNV first pointed me to their website and I THINK he said that JohnZ pointed him there originally. Figures. :BOW

I ordered an electrical connector pad so that I could neatly take off one 8Ga hot lead from the battery to a central point and take power off to a few accessories. Mark cautioned me about that, telling me that if I ran high demand devices off that setup, my Ammeter would read incorrecting. It's only an MSD box and a modest stereo head unit. He entusiastically explained to me that our Ammeters are really shunt gauges that are designed to read low voltages under the dash and how a more modern setup using a true voltmeter would be a better setup. He then went on to explain the differences between an alternator and a generator and explain why the generator has the big wires on the commutator whereas the generator has the big wires in the field windings.

I just listened and listened and I bought more and more. It was great listening to someone so knowledgeable explain his craft. If he was ever a teacher, he must have influenced one hell of a lot of kids.

I kept saying, Oh Yeah, gimme some of those connectors too, and some of that wire...How do I hook this up again???? :W

REALLY a rare treat. Buy something from this guy just to talk to him. VNV posted the website somewhere and this is the same outfit that described the relay solution for brighter headlights.

Holy Mooses!!!
 
Mad

I am glad to hear Mark is still at it. He helped me out with a charging problem on my 68 about 8 years ago. He really loves what he does. Very refreshing to speak with him. Mark, if you are out there, keep up the great work. Jerry
 
Kid_Again said:
You HAVE to deal with this outfit - the man is named Mark and he is an absolute expert on charging systems and automotive electrical information. VNV first pointed me to their website and I THINK he said that JohnZ pointed him there originally. Figures. :BOW

I ordered an electrical connector pad so that I could neatly take off one 8Ga hot lead from the battery to a central point and take power off to a few accessories. Mark cautioned me about that, telling me that if I ran high demand devices off that setup, my Ammeter would read incorrecting. It's only an MSD box and a modest stereo head unit. He entusiastically explained to me that our Ammeters are really shunt gauges that are designed to read low voltages under the dash and how a more modern setup using a true voltmeter would be a better setup. He then went on to explain the differences between an alternator and a generator and explain why the generator has the big wires on the commutator whereas the generator has the big wires in the field windings.

I just listened and listened and I bought more and more. It was great listening to someone so knowledgeable explain his craft. If he was ever a teacher, he must have influenced one hell of a lot of kids.

I kept saying, Oh Yeah, gimme some of those connectors too, and some of that wire...How do I hook this up again???? :W

REALLY a rare treat. Buy something from this guy just to talk to him. VNV posted the website somewhere and this is the same outfit that described the relay solution for brighter headlights.

Holy Mooses!!!

Me Two

I have to go with you on this one Kid, because I experienced the same thing as yourself. I called Mark about a month ago ( busy signal for two days ) and after finally getting a hold of him I must have spent more then two hours talking shop. When it comes to vehicle electrics, he is without a doubt the most knowledgeable person I have had the pleasure of talking to. ;worship

During our lengthly conversation ( voice over INTERNET for me = free long distance ) I, like yourself realized that there was not much he was offering, that I didn't need, so as the discussions continued, I purchase most of the items he has for sale on his web-page. My order ( not yet received ) is now in the hundreds, and I must confess, I would have liked to know about him for some of my previous builds.

We have since exchange information in many e-mails ( please don't ask me for his address ) and already he has help me immensely. I am looking forward to receiving all my parts , and you can trust me when I say they will all be put to good use.

If you have any issues with your Corvettes electrics, or just make something good, even better, this is definitely someone you have to speak to.

Yes Sky65, this is the guy http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

Stepinwolf
 
Its great to hear folks Rave about good service. The part your describing sounds like the part I just had fail on my 62 ,an auxelery fused power source.I am pulling power from mine to power up my msd box,and my cooling fan.and my fan assisted trans cooler. I also wanted to run a set of landing lights on the high beams (as wally knoch has suggested) and plan to pull power from this block for that.

Thanks for the tip.
 
IH2LOSE said:
Do you have a link to the power block you were going to use as I cant figure out how to search his catalog

Larry,

Just choose " Catalog " at the top of his page, and then click on " Insulated Terminal Block " if I read this right I believe the part number you are looking for is CN-1.

http://www.madelectrical.com/

Stepinwolf
 
Thanks I am going to call the fella today

I am looking for a terminal block that will axcept full size push in fuses that has at least 4 circuts to attach to. that will carry a Full load of 40 amps max
 
IH2LOSE said:
Thanks I am going to call the fella today

I am looking for a terminal block that will axcept full size push in fuses that has at least 4 circuits to attach to. that will carry a Full load of 40 amps max

Larry,

I also needed a 4 circuit block for mine, but I opted for a model # PB-15 sold by " Ron Francis " ( see pics ). However it does not use push-in fuses, but rather the circuit breakers identical to the ones that are already part of our wiring systems. The price was 35$, and included the hot lead, and protective caps for all the terminal screws. There are two 20 AMP, and two 30 Amp breakers, but these can easily be replaced ( one only nut ) with what ever size you might need.

You may check it out for yourself at the following link www.ronfrancis.com

block1.JPG

block2.JPG


Stepinwolf
 
Yup, CN-1

Please tell him that this discussion started on the CAC. I promised him that I would fire up a thread.
 
Yeah we have to fire all this credit for finding mad's site to JohnZ. He's the one that posted the link first. When I had gone out their before Mark was not available thru email or phone. Some one had posted a note about Mark being under the weather and not available to take calls or or email orders.

Glad to hear that he's back on the phones and or email and he is doing ok. Of course now that Kid_Again has bent his ear ...he might be out again for anoher 4 weeks....:L .

Glad to also see that some of you are reconfiguring your MidYears and or C-1's Lighting and elecrical systems. As I have said before ..there is some good reading there..

redn.jpg
 
IH2LOSE said:
Thanks I am going to call the fella today

I am looking for a terminal block that will axcept full size push in fuses that has at least 4 circuts to attach to. that will carry a Full load of 40 amps max

Larry,
Check out This Site http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=FDB


This is a link to fused distro boxes.. Also look on the left side menue for other useful gack.. If you order..tell them I sent you "Mark Richman"...
I spent quite a few bucks with them. You can reach them by email before you order if you have questions. They answer fast..:beer
 
block1.JPG


Thanks you for the link I dont want to sound picky but I am looking for the plain old full sized push in fuses. This way I only have to pack an asortment of fuses,1 maxi fuse and one relay in case I have a failure on the road.

Thanks again,

Whats the latest on you set up for the clutch pedal saftey switch,did you get the relay figured out for it
 
Whats the latest on you set up for the clutch pedal saftey switch,did you get the relay figured out for it


Ahhhh..Did you mean me or Larry ???? ...Heh Wait.. That would be me Larry has a Slush Box....No Clutch..... Doooooohh..!!

Well I am working on it ...I still have to install the other relays and switches. I only have time to do this stuff on the week ends mostly. But every time I try to get started on my car Kid_Again breakes down in my driveway....:L .

I'm going to try and do some stuff this week end. I think Kid Might be dropping by with his new "Mad" Relays for his HeadLamps... Well see...:beer
 
IH2LOSE said:
Whats the latest on you set up for the clutch pedal saftey switch,did you get the relay figured out for it
Safety switch??

Are you installing a switch that requires the pedal down to start the car?

If so - bad idea. When my clutch came apart in Montana, the pedal would not go down. I drove it home (2000 miles) that way. Start it in any gear you want.
 
magicv8 said:
Safety switch??

Are you installing a switch that requires the pedal down to start the car?

If so - bad idea. When my clutch came apart in Montana, the pedal would not go down. I drove it home (2000 miles) that way. Start it in any gear you want.

The key word here ....is ...Back up...or....And over ride switch in case of failure...that by passes the start switch. Forgetting your in gear and driving thru the garage wall into the laundry room is not a fun thing. Have you ever....started any manual trans car and for got it was in gear???? I have.. Becuase sometimes I have Brain Farts...It happens when you get old.....:L
 
magicv8 said:
Safety switch??

Are you installing a switch that requires the pedal down to start the car?

If so - bad idea. When my clutch came apart in Montana, the pedal would not go down. I drove it home (2000 miles) that way. Start it in any gear you want.

I agree with Mark,,

The two small wires that control the switch, can be accessed, and pulled almost without leaving your seat, so as VNV just explained, to jump the wires in order to start the car, would be a no brainer for anyone having done this type of installation.

Stepinwolf
 
If you run the switch wire to the neutral safety switch connector on the harness above the wiper motor, you don't need to cut the wiring and the switch can be disabled by restoring the default plug connection.I forgot about people who leave their manual transmission cars in gear.

You guys are right, this is a fender saving option.


PS: Sure is boring having to put line breaks in these posts to get blank lines inserted.
 

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