Motor break in

[IH2LOSE]

So as You guys know I recently received my new motor.My understanding is I have to run it at 2 or 3 thousand rpm for 20 minutes . How critical is this? when I purchased my headers I was told they WILL discolor if used to break in a motor.Unfortunatley I have no other headers to use these things barely fit in.

The local guy who was going to build my ls6 said he can break it in on his dyno for a charge of $400.00 or so and set the timing and carb for peak performance but he said he really cant do any hard pulls on the engine because I have to get some miles on it first.So he really cant set everything and the only real benifit it he will be breaking in the motor .So what do I do.

I had to dimple my headers in an out of site spot for clearence with the upper a arm,so I am just wondering do I just do the break in with my headers on and pay sanderson to recoat them? Do I not run it as they suggest and just take a leasurely ride with it on a long slow road with no stopping.

Any advice is apreceated

 

[tigernut]

I also have ceramic coated headers and went ahead with my engine break in with them on anyway. They didn't discolor.

I don't see the difference in using them during break in or using them after break in while crusing down the road at the same rpm and temperature.

I think the important thing is exhaust temperature. My motor never broke 180 deg. during break in and ran like a champ, so I'll assume my exhaust gas temperature was in the normal range and hence no discoloration. Just my WAG.

I'm sure others will chime in with their past experiences.

Doug

 

[Duntov-097]

I would think that if you have the timing correct and the carb close you should be OK. I think the discoloration comes when some people get the headers cherry red due to timng being off or way lean fuel situation.

 

[studiog]

Hi Larry,

I broke my engine in last year when it was just on the chassis, no body on. My machine shop said to keep the revs up for 20+ minutes at 2-3 grand and to vary it from time to time. They said the biggest concern was to not wipe out the cam with poor lubrication at low rpm's. Easier to recoat headers then to replace cam & lifters. By the way I got my door & windshield posts back today from Superior Chrome. I took 3 weeks to the day just as promised. Most other shops were running 8-10 weeks. They also gave me the best price. I am happy with the quality except for a couple of very, very small grind marks left in 2 spots. Good luck with the engine Larry.

 

[firstgear]

I would think that if you have the timing correct and the carb close you should be OK. I think the discoloration comes when some people get the headers cherry red due to timng being off or way lean fuel situation.

I have asked this question to a few people as well, and the answer I kept getting back, was if someone knows how to setup the carb and timing you will be ok, the problem is when the mixture is too lean and the header tubes get really hot, then that is where the probelm comes from.

 

[qwik-tripp]

what camshaft are you running? Hyd, hyd roller, or solid? this is where the break in time is determined.

 

[bossvette]

It is my understanding that with a roller cam you don't need the initial break in like you do with flat tappets. I was under the impression you went with a new crate motor with a hydraulic roller so you should have no problems or need to "run it in".

 

[maxrevs85]

Dyno tuning is really the best way to go for break in and tuning. Its in a controlled enviroment where you can watch temp, fuel and air flow and an excelleant way to check for oil and water leaks before you install it. The tuning part is well worth the money . They can get it right on the money. As far as not being able to do a pull, I dont see why not . Its not going to hurt it a bit . The other great advantage is making sure it is ok before its installed. I've been involved with several engine dyno runs and never has there been aproblem with running a new engine AFTER the break in. Dave

 

[IH2LOSE]

It is my understanding that with a roller cam you don't need the initial break in like you do with flat tappets. I was under the impression you went with a new crate motor with a hydraulic roller so you should have no problems or need to "run it in".

Definately a Hydraulic roller cam.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Dyno tuning is really the best way to go for break in and tuning. Its in a controlled enviroment where you can watch temp, fuel and air flow and an excelleant way to check for oil and water leaks before you install it. The tuning part is well worth the money . They can get it right on the money. As far as not being able to do a pull, I dont see why not . Its not going to hurt it a bit . The other great advantage is making sure it is ok before its installed. I've been involved with several engine dyno runs and never has there been aproblem with running a new engine AFTER the break in. Dave

The engine builder explained he could do the break in but no real hard pulls as suggested by gm

 

[maxrevs85]

They afraid it will break? ...

 

[JohnZ]

No run-in is necessary with a roller cam; just follow their break-in recommendations when you start driving it. The problem of discoloring coated headers is normally a result of retarded ignition timing and lean mixture calibration generating unusually high EGT during the 20-minute cam break-in, aggravated by lack of highway airflow across the headers.

 

[maxrevs85]

Your right John, my TPIS coated headers got almost red hot on the initial breakin. But they are fine. They dont usually keep the shiny appearence long anyway. Unless you dont turn it over 2500 , ever.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Thanks Guys


I am just going to install it and run it.

this is just one less thing I am going to be concerned with

 

[wallyknoch]

I am just going to install it and run it.

this is just one less thing I am going to be concerned with

Why worry about a brake in? If your confident of your work, all thats really needed is to make sure you have oil pressure, its warmed up, and no leaks. Then go out and press on the go pedal and have some fun.

 

[maxrevs85]

In actuality , you only want to run the cam breakin rpm between 1500 and 2000. Any more is not neccessary. It will help with less heat build up too.

 

[Ken Anderson]

The rings should seat in 30 seconds. Then set the timing and let 'er rip.

 

[wallyknoch]

The rings should seat in 30 seconds. Then set the timing and let 'er rip.

I`m with you on this subject. Thats why and the way we build um.

 

[vette]

With a roller cam you do not need to break in the cam. Just prime the motor fire it up tune it and go do burnouts.

 

[IH2LOSE]

With a roller cam you do not need to break in the cam. Just prime the motor fire it up tune it and go do burnouts.

Thank you all.

My plans excactley. How is your project coming along.Did you get your frame yet? I have been thinking about you.