Motor Q and A (Will this one bolt up)

[BigRed]

Ive been reading through Jegs and have gone to GM to ask about Crate engines. Ive done this because for a engine shop to properly turn my existing engine into a 383 Stroker its going to cost me 4500-6500$ depending on head choice.

Now In Jegs they have an engine from GM that quotes 385Hp called the "Fast Burn 385" for about 6000 even

Now this will mean I have a complete L98 (dressed) to sell (Which is a super cool Idea)

All I have to do judging by the information given is buy the MiniRam from TPiS (Wiring/injectors Etc...) and Im set correct?

My question is on this motor will things like to port holes line up? Will the motor mounts be the same? Will the Bellhousing be the same? I'll need a scater shield which one do I buy? Are all the sensor locations the same?

Basiclly is this pretty much the same 350 Im pulling out? I was under the impression all 350's are based on the same engineering but Im working off uneducated rumor here.

Im trying to develop my battle plan for when I do the "Big change" so when I have the money put away I can just point and Click as I'll be doing ALL the work myself.

Thanks all.

BTW part number from Jegs is 809-12496769 for the 385

the other possible motor is,

809-24502609 (ZZ4 w/ 54cc Alum Heads w/ 355Hp) ((a little cheaper Im assuming from the 35Hp loss but it says reccomended for pre 76 vehicles)) <--Is that because of sensor postions?

I don't want to go with 2 bolt mains hence not wanting Jegs's 350 Ram Jet.

 

[BigRed]

Oh yes I forgot,

With a 400Hp+ engine (Which this will be with the Miniram and MSD) can my drivetrain handle it?

4+3 Standard w/ stock rear end

 

[69MyWay]

There are several differences in the SBC (small block chevy-350 cid)

1969-1986 Type I blocks are all about the same. and will interchange with each other. There are minor differences like which side the oil dip stick is, etc. Two piece rear main seal, flat tappet hydraulic cams, perimeter screw valve covers. Externally balanced.

1987-1991 (vettes at least) Type II blocks have a one piece rear main seal, roller hydraulic lifters, and the heads have a different bolt angle on the two center intake bolts, as well as different raised rails for the valve covers (center screw vs. perimeter) Internally balanced (means you can't use a type I flywheel).

Vortec Series--these came along in the mid 90's and were used on trucks as the Vette and F body had gone to the LT1, then the LS1. The Vortec series has the same basic block as the Type II, but the intake bolts down completely different, and the ports are at a different angle. You can fudge a type I intake to interchange with at type II and visa versa with a good dremel tool and some longer bolts and washers for the center bolts. However, you can not interchange the Vortec series with the type I or type II heads.

TPiS now makes the miniram in different models to fit all the generations of heads/blocks. So, there is no problem there. You will have to make sure you match the correct balanced flywheel to your application. If you go with a Type II roller block, you most likely will have to run a 4+3 Flywheel from a 87-88 Vette as it has the correct balancing. In fact, that is EXACTLY what I have on my 90 six speed as I did away with the heavy dual mass flywheel and I have a Type II block. ( I know it does not sound right, but it works).

The motor mounts are the same, the water pump goes on the same, ans well as the accessories. You can get into trouble however if you go with too tall of a valve cover. Watch out for that on the windshield wiper motor, and the front accessory clearance.

The exhaust is all the same, no problems there. You will be running headers anyway to maximize power.

Will the 4+3 handle the power? I have no idea. I think it has a lot to do with how you actually drive the car and how often you plan on excercising the new power levels the car will be able to generate.

I think you would be best served to yank your block out, and buy a stroker 383 kit. Have your block bored and cleaned and the relief cut to clear the extra stroke. Get a good set of heads (Edelbrock, AFR, DART, .....), The miniram, good cam from TPIS, injectors, bigger TB, etc. and assembly it yourself so that you have fun, and get the thrill of seeing your handiwork all come together. You can also take your time and detail/paint/polish as you go along to really make the job look trick when you are finished. However, I just spent like $6,500 of your dollars in a matter of a few words.

BTW, not trying to be a slick salesman here, but you could always put that 85 up for sale, take a quick trip to Florida, soak up some sunshine, and drive my 90 home. You would be 95% of where you want to be in the couple of days it would take to pick it up and drive it home! Sounds like a Road Trip!!!!!!!

 

[BigRed]

You little ^$% LOL I would like to swap cars! :L Your right you've done exactly what im trying to do and your car is 5 years newer!.

I just thought it'd be cool to find a Crate motor that way I can sell the one I have complete to pay for part of the bill. But it sounds like aside from the flywheel (Minor) and Valve covers Im golden!

you know what I might do (Better not tell the wife) is test the market with my vette. It would'nt hurt putting it up for 20 or 21 to see if theres any grabbers.

I paid 12 for my car and now have a total of 28 into it, aside from the carpet and seat covers it is totally a brand new car either for real new or rebuilt. (Including the engine and half the transmission.)

But you know I sure love my car because it is 100% done by me correctly in most cases and aside from me being the power hungry goblin I am its near mint.

All Im doing to it aside from power hungry goblin stuff is Seats,Carpet, and Rims Thats it that all.

I dunno LOL we'll see how it go's

 

[BigRed]

MEDIC!

I just got a WICKED idea!

My Dad wants to build up a 32 Ford coupe. we've been tossing around the idea for a long time!.

New questions Lol Can I stick the L98 in there? Do I have to keep the ECM and all that techno stuff or can I transplant it using Carbs or even keep the injection? Can someone specify what Im in for? I'd like to keep it bare minimum No pollution controls No computers if not necessary etc..

If I do this my transmission will pbly go into the Ford along with the engine. As I will upgrade to a Richmond 6

 

[69MyWay]

I have done it before, no big deal at all.

You just need to contact one of the many suppliers of aftermarket computer harnesses, and computer hardware.

I know that TPis sells one, painless, and the list goes on and on.

YOu can transplant the L98 into the street rod, and short of some minor changes in computer software and engine hardware, it will never know it left the vette. You will leave all the computer and harness in the vette and simply attach a aftermarket harness system in the streetrod.

I have a all original metal bodied, chopped and smoothed 36 Ford (not mine, I just built it and maintain it) sitting outside of my bedroom right now with a 96 LT1 engine and electronic four speed auto trans living and breathing in there. You can do it!

You know I am going to keep kidding you about the 90......he he

 

[BigRed]

Lol I even talked to my Wife about it, she said if I really wanted to I could do it ( HA Permission!) But now the trick is to get 20-21 out of my car (Good Luck) but I'll try anyways If I got a grabber and shes sold I'll call your for sure.