First how would I go about trouble shooting the distributer when I get my car back.
Here are two videos about the Optispark.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFCjaz6zHfc
Inside the LT1 Optispark - YouTube
Since the repairs were done, what has changed? You said the original problem was the engine stalled but would restart after sitting.
When the engine wouldn't restart was there spark?
An indication the optical part of the Optispark is working in a no start condition is the tachometer will show rpm as you crank the engine. If you have rpm and no spark could be a problem with the coil, ignition control module, the rotor is loose or Optispark spark distributor cap.
Using a volt meter set to AC while you crank the engine you monitor the drive signal from the PCM to the ignition coil. If the voltage is around 2-4 volts the problem is in the ignition control module, the coil or the distributor cap or rotor. No drive voltage the problem is the Optispark, wiring or the PCM.
When the engine wouldn't restart if you sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body would the engine run?
That could point to a fuel delivery problem.
You mentioned the car misfired when you first got the car back.
A shop would use a scope and verify the high and low resolution pulses from the distributor are stable and the wave forms are accurate. For the misfire they would use scanner software and monitor the O2 sensors to determine which bank of cylinders the misfire is coming from.
If you look at your old optispark, use your hand and spin it, is the movement smooth or is the bearing bad?
You can take it apart and verify there is no carbon tracking in the distributor cap, the rotor is not loose, the optical wheel has no rust on it and there is no moisture or oil inside the housing.
Other than physical verification with out a scope there is nothing more you can do other than replace it.
Most people also replace the water pump when an Optispark is replaced because a leaking water pump dumps water on to the Optispark.
Second when would a corvette need bigger fuel injectors.
Only if major engine modifications are made that requires more fuel such as a Head or camshaft change. Since you now have larger injectors, you've introduced another variable into the problem. I'd reinstall the original injectors with new o'rings. If you believe the original injectors are bad you can send them out for testing but that will cost you close to $100. To have the computer reflashed to compensate for the larger injectors could cost $100.
Have you verified if any trouble codes were set?
Using a paper clip and short pins either 4 or 5 to pin 12 on the diagnostic connector located above
the drivers right knee and turn the ignition On, any trouble codes will be displayed on the speedometer LCD.
Module 1 is for the CCM
Module 4 is for the PCM
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