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My Radiator is washing the Ground

  • Thread starter Thread starter 84Vette
  • Start date Start date
8

84Vette

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So I got to work today and went out to smoke and i see a puddle under my car. First thing i though was oh great leaking caliper but to my dismay it was a radiator leak. So Now my question is 1) should i get it repaired 2)Should i get a replacement 3) If i go replacement should i go all out and get an aluminum core radiator or stick with the brass. Seeing as the aluminum dissapates heat faster. But i just don't know.

BJ
 
Yikes!

Are you sure it isn't a hose? What failed?

I'd say this would call for some judicious decision making.
Was the failure at a critical juncture that would predispose it to future failures? If the radiator is repairable was it performing its job? If yes, repair, if no, buy new.

My personal opinion is that the original radiators do their job well if everything else is working well, too. I have also heard about the aluminum ones having problems with longevity if not taken care of properly. Anyone care to elaborate on the aluminum radiators?
Heidi
 
at first i thouht it to be a hose but i checked the hoses and all were dry so i looked at the radiator and seen it was coming out down near the bottom drivers side fan shoud.
 
I accidentally put a pin hole leak in my copper radiator. It was about half way up on one of the tubes. I carefully snipped away a fin and had good access to the hole. I shined up the hole area with a small wire brush then wiped it down with rubbing alchohol and let it dry. Then , i applied JB Weld in a small amount and let it set for 24 hours. Then i applied another small amount on top of that and let it set for another 24 hours. It dried hard as a rock. I did this 3 years ago and it still hasnt leaked , and i have a 22 lb. pressure rated radiator cap .

If you have access to the leak...i would give this a try. But..if your radiator is very old, then its most likely on its last legs and you should fix it with JB Weld to get you going...then shop for a new one.

S.D.
 
You may want to just get a new one. You can have it repaired, but the two tanks on the radiator and the petcock are plastic. You have a 20 year old car...heat + plastic + 20 years=brittle.
 
Hi
My original 4 row brass 68 big block rad leaked from the drivers side tank. I got it repaired 3 times during last summer and it gave up shortly afterwards, but brought me through the season into the winter.
A recore would cost 400 $ over here, so I got a universal alu 2 row 1 inch tube rad for 170 $. Finally cost me 230 $ including shipping and import tax, but was still a good price againsta recore or a unique Vette rad.
I had to reweld both water necks as they are just traight out on universal rads and also had to modifie the brackets.
So all together a bit of work, but it looks fine , is new and is alu.:cool
Try to get it repaired once, may be your more lucky. But if it leaks again, it's just plain old and wrotten and needs at least a recore, which includes a complete resoldering of both tanks from the inside.
Good luck Gunther
 
BJ:
If you’re working on a 1978 ... it came with a copper & brass rad ... no plastic tanks. 1984 & up came with plastic tanks & aluminum core. Some 78s came with 3-core ... others with heavy duty cooling had 4-core. Modine numbers for copper & brass OE-type replacement rads are: 3-core = 717 ... 4-core = 718. Your nearest Autozone discount auto parts store can sell you a new 4-core copper & brass ... brand is GDI ... pn 433718 ... price about $185 at Springfield IL store. You can get a universal fit 31x19 aluminum w/2 BIG cores for same money or less at www.speedwaymotors.com pn 917347-31 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/as....60/cont.1/intPgNo.4/redirect./qx/product.htm ... but you’ll have to do some minor fabication to make it fit. It’s a nice rad ... brand is Northern mfg ... USA-made. I prefer aluminum. BTW ... the rad Gunther refers to is a Northern. G’Luck.
JACK:gap
 
well be sure to give it a mop so it can scrub it too...

;LOL ;LOL

just had to do it
 
84Vette said:
Jack What type of mod our we talking about?
First ... if yours has auto trans ... you'll have to add an auxilliary fluid cooler ... it'll actually be primary because universal fit has no trans cooler.
Second ... universal has no draincock ... if you want one you'll have to add it (heliarc in a bung).
Third ... your stock hoses probably won't fit ... get NON-molded, universal fit (convoluted, accordian-type) from any local parts house.
Last ... your stock rad support brackets may or may not fit ... you may have to bend them a bit or make new ones.

DeWitts can sell you an aluminum setup that'll drop right in ... Tom's service & products are first class. In today's world, real service is increasingly rare ... and is valued accordingly.
JACK:gap
 

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