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Mystery wire at firewall..Help

Hmmm. I dont know. The old coil still had the condensor mounted on the side and then I believe 2 wires on the neg. and 1 on the poss.
Does anyone have a photo of this wire still in route ??
Thanks gmjunkie
 
Hmmm. I dont know. The old coil still had the condensor mounted on the side and then I believe 2 wires on the neg. and 1 on the poss.
Does anyone have a photo of this wire still in route ??
Thanks gmjunkie
I can't remember on what years they changed things!!
But on some they had 2 wires to the hot side,1 was 12 volts when cranking and the outher was a resister wire 6-7 volts while running!!! Outherwise it would burn up the points purdy quick!!!!If I remember right my 68 427 Tri-Power vert was that way!!! BTW what color is your 68??:upthumbs
 
I was just curious,I fell upon hard times and had to sell my 68 about 30 years ago when I moved from Illinois to Florida!! It was British Green with both tops, Damn I want to find it and buy it back!!!!!! I still have my 78 it was almost new then!!:upthumbs[
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If I remember correctly the 12V coil wire came from the solenoid to give it a little more umph when starting. The resister wire was from the ignition switch. When did they do away with the old ballast resistor? Didn't some coils have the resistor built in; if you used one of them with a resistor wire you had poor or no spark.

My 68 has pertronics ignition. I'll look at a wire diag and see if I can figure it out.

coil + terminal connections the yellow wire is from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid to give 12V while starting. The Tan with red and blue tracers is from the firewall connector.

there is also a brown with white stripe that goes to the wiper door limit switch.
 
While you have your wheels off look at the rear body mounts and tell me what they are made of and about how thick they are; mine are aluminum about 3/8 thick; I thought they were supposed to be rubber.
 
That's the resistance wire from the ignition switch to the coil (+) terminal; 1967 was the last year for the separate ballast resistor. That coil terminal should also have a yellow wire on it from the starter solenoid, and the black wire from the radio noise suppression capacitor mounted on the coil bracket.

:beer
 
Thanks JohnZ,
Are you saying I should extend that wire and attach it to the (+) side of coil?
The other wires sound rite and will confirm back tomarrow.

Has anyone ever stumped you yet?? (you dont have to answer that)
 
Thanks JohnZ,
Are you saying I should extend that wire and attach it to the (+) side of coil?
The other wires sound rite and will confirm back tomarrow.

Has anyone ever stumped you yet?? (you dont have to answer that)
I think they'd have to get up purdy early in the morning!!!!:upthumbs :D
 
Thanks JohnZ,
Are you saying I should extend that wire and attach it to the (+) side of coil?
The other wires sound rite and will confirm back tomarrow.

Depends what kind of ignition setup you have now - if that cloth-covered resistance wire isn't connected to anything now, what IS connected to the coil (+) terminal to give it power?

:beer
 
JohnZ,
Its another cloth covered wire like the other one but its a larger gauge and the same color and its in a wire bundle that goes up to the drivers front where the TI ignition unit is located.
Hope this helps w/ your thought process
 
JohnZ,
Its another cloth covered wire like the other one but its a larger gauge and the same color and its in a wire bundle that goes up to the drivers front where the TI ignition unit is located.
Hope this helps w/ your thought process

Well, the fact that you have T.I. clarifies it - the resistance wire that's flopping around loose is supposed to be taped back on itself to the harness and not used; the other cloth-covered wire from the pulse amplifier powers the coil on a car with T.I. If you look in the K-66 section of your assembly manual you'll see the note to tape back the production resistance wire to the coil.

:beer
 
Thanks again JohnZ..
I hope my next dilema is as easy as this one..
 

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