Need window removal help!

[Bill75]

I'm trying to remove the pass side power window, glass, tracks, motor...everything. I have all the bolts removed including the vertical tracks but I can't figure out how to get the motor disengaged from the mechanism so I can get the thing apart. I can hold the motor and move it all around in the bottom of the door but I don't see any way to unhook it.

The window is down, should I have done this with it up or something?

Thanks

 

[Bill75]

Well, I made a little progress, I think! I brought the window to the top and held it there with some wood dowels thru the holes in the door panel. I removed the three bolts holding the motor and the motor came off, AND THE SPRING LET LOSE AND NEARLY CAUGHT MY FINGERS!!!!!! I still need some advice on how to get the window out. I'm thinking maybe to remove the bolts holding the glass at the bottom then take the tracks out from the top and the horizontal pieces from the bottom???
Anyone done this before? I'm really going to need some help getting the spring back correctly.

 

[craig32]

It ain't fun the first time, Bill. You do need the window up to get the motor out, which you apparently already know. To get the glass out, you need the window down slightly. You can get the rear nut off, then you have to let it down a little more to get the front one out - after you loosen the door handle, if they are the same as the '81. After they are both off, you need to remove the stop in the front track (mark it first) then push the window down some more to get room to let the window clear the channel it is bolted in. Then there's a lot of twisting and cursing involved, until you figure out just how it comes out! There is a roller on it somewhere that has to slide out just right, I think you need the front track lose for that. If you get in a bind, you can e-mail me and I'll walk you through it. Good luck!
Craig

 

[Bill75]

Hi Craig,
Well, I have the cursing part down...no problem! I got the rear nut off the glass but can't figure out how to get the front one off. I can tip the glass forward only so far and it's not enough to allow it to slide down the front vert. track so I can get the front nut off. It seems as though that's the key, the front nut has to come off so the rollers can slide out of the horizontal track, otherwise they hold the window in place. Right? There must be a formula for this, and I'm definately not using it!

 

[jdp6000]

Well Bill your in luck I just did mine. Are you trying to get the window out or the whole track (called the regulator)? I see yours is a 75 but it should be similar.

The window is easy. There is a bolt on each end of the window. Remove them. You can use your power window switch to move the window up or down to line up the bolts with an opening in the door. Next at the top of each track you will find a stop. Remove the two stops. these two stops keep the window from going up too far. Pussh the window off the track bolts. The window will now pull out but there is a plastic plug in the glass at the front that catches the upper door hardware....so you will be able to get the back right out but the front will catch....with the back out and up slide the glass back and lift....you almost have to pry it out.

As for the motor. Its not recommend you take it off with out first removing the entire regulator. The regulator is spring loaded. If you take off the motor the spring will contract and you will have a difficult time getting the motor back in. Take the who thing out. It is also easy. By the way...I did not remove the window...I wedged something in the top to keep it in the up position. You still need to remove the two nuts and remove the window from the track. Remove the black access panel at the bottom of the door. There are 3 rivits holding the regulator to the door frame. Punch out the center of the rivits.Drill out (if its been out before there will be 3 bolts in place of the rivits) the rest of the rivit with a 1/4 drill bit. Remove the two bolts that hold part of the track to the door (feel around for the lower track..you will find the bolts). Unplug the connector to the motor. Remove the track motor part first...a little twisting will get the entire assemble out. Install in the reverse. Those 3 rivits need to be replaced with 1/4" 20 1/2" length bolts and lock nut at the rear. Us the bolts with the rounded head that require one of those hex type screw drivers. The bolts have to be low in profile otherwise your door panels won't fit over them.

Jim

 

[Bill75]

Hi Jim,
Great information!!! I appreciate the detail. I think I did everything just opposite of what you've recommended. I pulled out the motor not realizing it could be removed attached to the regulator assembly, the spring letting loose really got my attention!!

I'm removing the whole thing, window, tracks, and regulator assembly; the mechanism is pretty gummed up with old grease so the rollers barely turn. Now that you've detailed it so well, I think I can get it back together again. Looks like someone has had it apart in the past, the rivets have been replaced by 1/4X20 bolts as you mentioned. I'm sure I'll have another question........stay tuned.

Thank you Bill

 

[jdp6000]

Bill,

Once you regrease it will run like new. Since you have the motor out take the part that turns out and pack the area with a good grease. I used a high quality bearing grease. Grease every joint and wheel. Reinstall the spring withe the motor off....if its coiled too tight from use give it a pull to spread it out a bit. Once you have reinstalled the coil (it can only go one way...the objective is for it to tighten on the roll down so it gives your track upward help on the wind up) you will need an extra pair of hands to pull the track down so you can reinstall the motor. Teeth must catch the motor gear.. Put it all back together and put it back inside the inside the door. Mess around with getting everything in the right place once you get it in the door. first think I did was reattached the bolts (where the rivits once were). Then I put the window back on the the track....BUT BEFORE YOU DO THIS (TRICKY PART) THERE IS A GUIDE ON THE REAR UP/DOWN TRACK THE MUST GO ON BEFORE YOU ATTACH THE REAR PART OF THE WINDOW TO THE REGULATOR TRACK. I for got it the first time so pay attention to it.
last thing is to attach the bottom part of the regulator track (the one with the two nuts about 5 inches appart).

Now the fun starts realigning the window so it closes right and opens right. It takes a fair bit of tinkering. if you didn't have to loosen off any of the adjustment points it may align as good as before. If you need to realign. Loosen of everything. sit in the car with our wrenches. Put the window up until you are happy with height and position. Then tighen everything up. if your parts aren't badly worn this should work. If they are worn you will need to make some adjustments.

Anyway, you will notice a big difference after greasing. Just a suggestion, since you access to the bottom inner door area apply some rust inhibitor.

Jim

 

[craig32]

Bill, you did it right, I don't think the regulator comes out with the motor attached either. What you're referring to as a channel, Jim is calling the regulator. The channel slides over the rollers on the regulator and the window bolts to it. You need to find the access hole to remove the front nut, then lower the window about halfway so you can get the bolts free of the channel. Then it will come out back first, there is a roller on the front that you will probably have to loosen the vertical track to get out. Also there is another stop of some sort on the very front of the window that you have to guide out one of the openings in the top of the door. Oh, and be careful not to rip the rubber strip! Good luck.
Craig

 

[Bill75]

OK on everything Jim. I've cleaned and regreased things and gotten the regulator back together with the motor, good tip on greasing the pinion gear on the motor also, I never would have thought to pull that off and clean/regrease under it.
Did you note the amount of play in that "T" piece with the two rollers where it's riveted to the regulator when you had yours apart? Mine seems to have quite alot of play although the rivets look good and show no signs of not being in the right positions. Maybe it's made loose for alignment purposes.

I found a plastic bumper and other plastic pieces in the bottom of the door so I'm going to order some parts tomorrow, I see Corvette Central sells them.

You did a great job describing how this is done, I searched a long time and couldn't find anything, I'm sure this will really help someone else down the road too! I'll let you know how I make out when the parts get here.

Regards,

Bill

 

[Bill75]

Hi Craig,
Just saw your post. I think he's right, once you unbolt the motor the big spring is disengaged from the gear on the motor and it lets loose pretty severly. I was just in the garage and reinstalled the motor on the regulator assembly after cranking up the spring with one foot and two arms. :ugh After the motor is bolted on it slides back into the door OK and lines up. I'm not quite ready to install the channel yet so we'll see how that goes later I guess.

You're right about the access hole for the front nut, I did get smarter after your post and lowered the front to line up with the hole and removed the nut.

Thanks Bill

 

[jdp6000]

Hey Bill,

Ya mine had a fair bit of play there too. It didn't have any effect on the performance. Not that I have noticed anyway.

Your on the right track....

Jim

 

[Bill75]

Windows back

Just though I'd report that the windows are back inside the doors intact, not one hammer went thru the glass!!!!!
Just kidding, everything went pretty well, Corvette Central sent me some hardware that wasen't right at least for a Corvette. Might have fit a Caterpillar but not a Chevy! Thankfully the Vette shop helped me out.

Thanks to you guys for all your help, hope I can return the favor some day.

Bill

 

[craig32]

Bill,
Good to hear, I got mine put back together also. Kinda fun putting the mirrors back on by yourself with new paint, but I got it done. Car is all back together with a few minor repairs, totaling all of $0.75! When the line between the pump and carb ruptured, I figured out why there was a box of fuel line hose in the car when I got it. The 75 cents was for a new taillight bulb. Still got some issues here and there but it'll keep me occupied this year. Have fun with yours!
Craig

 

[ironmoo]

My situation:
Took out the rivets, unbolted the bolts that hold the channels in place, took out the motor without a problem. However there was no spring loaded event with the motor being remove. Is just came out with the three bolts and mounting plate!
Perhaps I have a broken spring in the first place?

However after several hours of trying to remove it...everything is stuck between the door. Yes it glass/tracks etc, can move about ...but reading over this post (which had been very helpful!) the main thing to ask is, I DO need to remove the glass to extract out the regulator? Now rereading these post is seems that is the step I missed!

The original problem was the power window motor would run but the window would not lower. Nice is was stuck in the up position!
On a side note. After I removed the working motor, I plugged it back in to the harness to make sure it still ran...(which it did just 5 minutes before) .....now it does not run!!! ACHK!

Any extra suggestions on removing the assembly from the door?

Thanks!

-MoO!

 

[wedge1028]

My situation:
After I removed the working motor, I plugged it back in to the harness to make sure it still ran...(which it did just 5 minutes before) .....now it does not run!!!

i just had this same problem today? Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

My original problem was the drivers side window would not go all the way up so I took apart the assembly but not it seems like the motor is not getting power somehow.

 

[ironmoo]

i just had this same problem today? Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

My original problem was the drivers side window would not go all the way up so I took apart the assembly but not it seems like the motor is not getting power somehow.

The motor worked fine until I pulled it out. Now nothing. Grrrr.... The teeth were bad on the motor gear and also on the metal teeth for the track/regulator assembly. Bought a new regulator, track assembly, gear and spring, bushings etc. as the original parts all looked old, worn and rusty from water damage leaking in the door over the years.

I replaced the wiring harness (the door lock switch was bad and the door J- hinge hook needed replacing which was easy with the old door harness out.)

However the window motor is now dead and replaced with a new one...still no go.

Checking fuses and the switch itself on the center console next....found that I am getting power to the motor via a test light on the cable motor plug. Thank goodness!


A bad motor again?!? Hard to believe.

- Does the motor need to have tension from the gear and spring to operate at all?

- Is it a grounding issue being that everything has to be in place for the motor to operate?

And I thought I was ready to reassemble today. ;(

-Sad Moo.

 

[ironmoo]

The old power window motor works fine!

Found out that the motor needs to be grounded by the actual attachment to the whole door assembly to function.

Once the power window motor is unbolted and pulled out (but still plugged in to the wiring harness, ) all you have left is 2 hot wires, one for the window going up and one for down...and NO ground! Felt a little silly once I realized this with a test light. Electricity 101 stuff! lol :L

Window works fine now, all new bushings, new door and pillars weather stripping (replaced since I had everything torn down.)

Problem with getting the window everything aligned just right but I should have it corrected when I have time to work on her again this weekend.

Best!
-MoO!