New C1 Owner (1960) needs help

[dharris45]

I just purchased a 60 corvette to finish the restoration. Probably paid to much, but this is my retirement project. It had partial frame off restoration, but has been sitting for about 4 years. I will start and run but not well, e.g. very rapid idle, spitting and backfiring.
My question is how best to treat the engine/fuel while doing other restoration work. Will not be starting/running for a while. Should I drain what fuel is left? What about fuel in the lines and carbs?

As I said, I am new to corvette restoration, so I need a lot of help please

Thanks,
Don

 

[Tom Bryant]

Welcome to the CAC.

Add fuel to the tank and treat it with Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer. Available everywhere auto parts are sold. It will keep the fuel fresh and prevent varnish from building up in the carb when it sets and dries out. That's probably your running problem now. The carb may need to be disassembled and cleaned.

Also use it in your lawn mowers, chain saws and anything else gas powered that sets unused for extended periods.

Tom

 

[dharris45]

Thanks Tom.

I probably should drain and replace the oil since I have no idea what the state of the existing oil. What oil do you recommend? Also are filters readily available at local auto supplies?

As for fuel, do you use unleaded high test, and with or without an additive.

Again, Thanks,

 

[orlandjoe]

I agree with the Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer and possibly clean out the fuel bowl area. I would also check the distributor mechanical weights that could be sticking/binding. Just remove the distributor cap and move the rotor and shaft which have a small amount of play. I have had a problem where my 1966 distributor weights plate would stick and not return to normal. The distributor was just plain worn-out. Replaced it with a Mallory electronic unit and all is well.

 

[67vet]

Put the sta-bil in the fuel as Tom said and run it for a while to get it up to the carb. Fifteen minutes just to be sure. If you are going to take the fuel tank out during your project, still run the fuel sta-bil through. Before you put her back on the road, I suggest disconnecting the fuel line at the fuel pump and air blow the line from the tank to the pump. Change the fuel filter and then maybe a carb kit to be sure. One lump of stuff in the fuel line gave me quite a bit of problems.

 

[JohnZ]

Thanks Tom.

I probably should drain and replace the oil since I have no idea what the state of the existing oil. What oil do you recommend? Also are filters readily available at local auto supplies?

As for fuel, do you use unleaded high test, and with or without an additive.

Again, Thanks,

Any oil with a CI-4 or CJ-4 API Service Classification (on the API "bullet" on the back of the container) has ZDDP content that will provide adequate protection for your cam and lifters; common brands are Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, etc.

Any NAPA will have your oil filter element - Wix or NAPA Gold are excellent. Be sure you get the old big O-ring completely out of the groove before you install the new one.

Unleaded premium fuel will work fine - you don't need any "miracle" additives.

 

[2X4's 60]

Unleaded premium fuel will work fine - you don't need any "miracle" additives.

I agree. I've never used Sta-bil in anything I own and have never had any fuel related problems. The gas in my 60 is about 18 months old and it ran fine when I drove it last week.

 

[dharris45]

Thanks to all.

What are the rules of this forum for a thread? Should I used this one thread for all my questions regarding my project?


Again, Thanks,

Don Harris

 

[Tom Bryant]

Don,

You would attract more attention to the topic if you start a new thread pertaining to the project you are working on. Just adding onto this thread might get your question missed by a lot of members.

Tom

 

[Tom Bryant]

I think John was referring to the lead additives and octane boosters that some think are necessary. As for needing Sta-Bil or not, that may have to do with the blend of fuel they use in your part of the country. I have had rough idle in the spring in the '81 until I ran a tank of fresh gas through it. Since I started using Sta-Bil in the tank over winter it is smooth as sillk at first spring start up.

Tom

 

[jimbo64]

I think John was referring to the lead additives and octane boosters that some think are necessary. As for needing Sta-Bil or not, that may have to do with the blend of fuel they use in your part of the country. I have had rough idle in the spring in the '81 until I ran a tank of fresh gas through it. Since I started using Sta-Bil in the tank over winter it is smooth as sillk at first spring start up.

Tom

i agree- we use stabil in everything-fuel will go bad, stabil is cheap insurance