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new engine options....

  • Thread starter Thread starter CLABORN1960
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CLABORN1960

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okay, I have been giving this some thought, and wanted to bounce some ideas off you all.... my 93 has over 213k miles on it... still runs fine, not burning oil, compression good etc.... my mechanic says I could go another 100k easy.... however I am thinking about dropping in a new engine next year... two simple goals, 400 rwhp with 390+ torque, and a daily driver....

So do I have to stick with an LT1 configuration or can I go with something completely different? Money-wise we are talking about 5 to 7 thousand dollars... and no I am not interested in moving up to a C5.....

Thoughts?
 
Leave it alone. Spend the money on a trip to vegas check out the bunny ranch:Buttslap:dancenaughty:m:beer

They also have a place to shoot cool guns:r
 
Leave it alone. Spend the money on a trip to vegas check out the bunny ranch:Buttslap:dancenaughty:m:beer

They also have a place to shoot cool guns:r
hmmmm that would be an option..... and my wife has always wanted to go to Vegas... however an engine transplant is inevitable.... :rotfl
 
If you go away from the current motor I'm sure you've already considered that in addition to the actual motor change, you're also looking most likely at a new computer control for the car as well?

Just my suggestion, but if you're really wanting to make a major boost to it, I'd do a complete rebuild to freshen up your lt1 and add on either a turbo or supercharger. Keeping your foot out of it (if that's possible for you after the change...lol)...should still give you an affordable daily driver type of economy.

Best of luck with it whatever you decide to do!
 
400 bhp from an LT1 shouldn't be too hard and it will still be very driveable.

However, if you go that route, you will need to upgrade the tranny, driveshaft, differential, and chassis. Chassis meaning rebuild your suspension system, upgrade the braking to match the extra power.

And if you're going that route, it would be a shame not to restore the interior and body too.
 
400 bhp from an LT1 shouldn't be too hard and it will still be very driveable.

However, if you go that route, you will need to upgrade the tranny, driveshaft, differential, and chassis. Chassis meaning rebuild your suspension system, upgrade the braking to match the extra power.

And if you're going that route, it would be a shame not to restore the interior and body too.

interior is fine.... body was painted 2 yrs ago.... just got new wheels.... and yes I do plan on upgrades of the tranny, and rear end... probably will do that before doing the engine upgrade....
 
If you go away from the current motor I'm sure you've already considered that in addition to the actual motor change, you're also looking most likely at a new computer control for the car as well?

Just my suggestion, but if you're really wanting to make a major boost to it, I'd do a complete rebuild to freshen up your lt1 and add on either a turbo or supercharger. Keeping your foot out of it (if that's possible for you after the change...lol)...should still give you an affordable daily driver type of economy.

Best of luck with it whatever you decide to do!
some have suggested getting a new engine would be cheaper than rebuilding... I think I will stay away from the superchargers or turbos as from what I have read (I don't know personally) they can be problematic...
 
some have suggested getting a new engine would be cheaper than rebuilding... I think I will stay away from the superchargers or turbos as from what I have read (I don't know personally) they can be problematic...

I'm kind of guessing here on that way of thinking...a new engine might be cheaper for more HP if they're talking about going with something that's going to be much larger in size...but then that's probably also going to kill your gas mileage if you're trying to keep that in control.

Really though, a good rebuild and upgrading some things such as head, cam, etc...a nice dyno tune...I think you'd be headed in the direction you want to be in...then again, the bunny ranch sounds like a nice direction too at the moment....hmm....
:beer
 
I'm kind of guessing here on that way of thinking...a new engine might be cheaper for more HP if they're talking about going with something that's going to be much larger in size...but then that's probably also going to kill your gas mileage if you're trying to keep that in control.

Really though, a good rebuild and upgrading some things such as head, cam, etc...a nice dyno tune...I think you'd be headed in the direction you want to be in...then again, the bunny ranch sounds like a nice direction too at the moment....hmm....
:beer

maybe, but then again though I drive my car daily most of the miles racked up are highway miles..... I average about 100 miles per day, 90 percent of that is interstate.... so I could go bigger and still get decent gas mileage....
 
bump it out to 383 and go with a LT1 to LT4 kit from GM performance easy enough to do and will get you where you want to be.
 
went thru this

I was leaning towards a crate engine, but every time I made a decision, Chevy changed the availability. So, I had a reputable local shop build me a 406. Not that I would go to the 400 sbc again, though mine is fantastic, I heartily recommend the longer stroke, for the torque.

We speak of horsepower, but really WANT torque. The near-BBC stroker does that nicely and you maintain the relatively economical rear end ratios while greatly improving the acceleration. My car pulls evenly and very hard to fuel shutoff at 6300 RPM.

My upgrade was more involved, coming from a X-fire to TPI ('90 Camaro box) and I probably have a bit more cam than you want for a DD.

My absolutes:
1- ceramic coated long tube headers,
2- find an experienced/qualified chip guy NOW,
3- ONE tuner/builder,
4- NO superRam

Reasons: 1- the ceramics are thermally efficient and will last much longer, while keeping the under hood temperatures much more reasonable. That is important due to all the plastic parts, i.e. electrical connectors (which allow the car to run). Also, I FELT the difference with the thermal improvement.
2- the new ECM (or chip) will make (or not) the engine package street friendly and reliable while maximizing the output from whatever package you build. I have seen the good and half-fast.
3- Everyone has an opinion on how to build a great engine. Combining approaches can end with a lesser result, plus many claims are prefaced by "up to xx h.p. gain). "Up to", can be a minus number for your hard-won performance dollar. Find someone who quietly builds fantastic engines and doesn't blow smoke. The right shop needs no bluster; their results speak loudly enough. One example, some tuners like higher fuel pressure and smaller injectors to deliver a given amount off fuel, believing the spray pattern is better. Others, reverse that (the same amount of fuel). I run factory pressure and the right-sized injectors for that pressure.
4- The SR is a PITA to dis/assemble and mine abuts the WW motor. Sure, it allows a great low end and a good top end, but so do other intakes. just be careful not to overdo the size or it will lack air velocity and kill the low end. This ties directly into the camshaft choice; all dictated by what you want the motor to excel at doing.

Define as best you can; more than MY initial "I want more power" approach, and the right shop will build a motor like mine that men fear for its tire-shredding power in an awesome Corvette.
Any time you take to plan now, will be returned later, for le$$. :w
 
Whalepirot, who did your engine work?

Does your Corvette pass CA emissions?

Do you have more detailed pics of your car? Would love to check it out in detail.
 
Definitely go with a stroker motor. Check out Jegs or Summit and they will have 383's or others that should practically be a bolt in for your car. If you go with a crate motor from chevy or other reputable builder you should also get a warranty of at least one year with the motor. Also, by using a crate motor, you retain your current engine in case you should ever want to put it back to stock condition (possibly higher re-sale).

400 crank hp is not unrealistic for an Lt1 and still be streetable.
 
Whalepirot, who did your engine work?
Speed-O-Motive in Santa Fe Springs built the engine; got TPI conversion parts all over the US and I installed it all in only three years time.

Does your Corvette pass CA emissions?
Yup, with a brand new cat. I would go with a milder cam, next time, and have less issues. Hardest part is finding an experienced and competent chip guy to make it all run.

Do you have more detailed pics of your car? Would love to check it out in detail.
Well, neighbor, c'mon over. I thought you had checked the car out at Fuddruckers one night, but are welcome to see the car, up on stands, on Tampico, off Alicia, while I re-do some 'professional' work.

The reinstall was royally screwed up by 7's Only racing in Buttonwillow.:mad
 
I would suggest the 383 stroker route with mid range CAM (Calif smog), some LT4 ported heads and Intake. there are many Engine builder that will sell you a custom turn-key crate engine for a fair price. If that doesn't get you to the power level that you want, there are other bolt on's and power adders that will boost you pass the level that you want.
 
I would suggest the 383 stroker route with mid range CAM (Calif smog), some LT4 ported heads and Intake. there are many Engine builder that will sell you a custom turn-key crate engine for a fair price. If that doesn't get you to the power level that you want, there are other bolt on's and power adders that will boost you pass the level that you want.
I am thinking about a supercharger..... just researching the pros and cons...
 
it may not stop with the engine upgrade

we are talking about 5 to 7 thousand dollars...
Okay. That's about what I spent, five years ago, to have a fantastic, custom 406 built.....

then the headers and 3" exhaust so it would exhale ($1400 + mufflers)

new intake, injectors and more so it would inhale (over a grand)

then the $2000 chip/tune, custom, to get it all to run and yield mega torque

then the tranny: total rebuild, at 105k miles, plus there's all that extra torque (a mere $500)

then the overdrive: total rebuild, at 105k miles, plus there's all that extra torque ($1400)

then the car overheated: all that extra power (previously, torque)

then the no-start: damn red top Optimas(2 bad; new)

then the rear end broke: there's all that extra torque 2 1/2x stock ('nother $1200)

then, no power brakes: 9" vacuum (electric hydro boost) $920

Ken (R.I.P., pal) almost quit and sold it all, as did RichR and I, just before it all came together. Absolutely, I am not trying to discourage... just have your eyes open to reality which some of us lived. My real total was over $13000, some of which you won't need. Oops, I forgot to add in the BeCool and Flow Cool parts. (another $700 or so).
 

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