Help! New Fidanza flywheel & heavy grinding sound

[Mario93ZR1]

A while ago I had a shop replace the standard flywheel of my '93 ZR-1 with a light Fidanza flywheel. The shop warned me about more noise from the drivetrain and I was ready for that.

I have driven the car for about 800km now, including a trip on the German Autobahn and taking it up to 220km/hour while chasing a newer model Ferrari, but the noise keeps giving me the creeps sometimes. The clattering sounds are louder, just as expected, but there is also a more grinding noise that worries me.

It sounds like cog wheels that do not run smooth together (heck, I guess that actually IS the sound), like a machine without oil in it (I hope I describe it good). The sound is sometimes very loud, especially in 1 and 2, but also in 3 in RPM's under 2000, worst in low rpm's. I also hear it with high RPM's: on the autobahn when I took the engine above 4500RPM in 4th gear, the sound could even be heard over the loud Flowmaster mufflers.

Strange thing is that sometimes it's there and other times it's not there. I do the same thing: drive away in 1, 2 and 3 (normal, not hard) and I just hear the rattle. Then later on, I do the same thing: drive away in 1, 2 and 3 (normal) and the grinding sound is back.
:ugh
I checked with the shop that replaced the flywheel and they sent me two cans of new Castrol Manual TAF-X oil (specifications: SAE 75W-90; API GL-4+; VW 501 50) and a tube of Wynn's H.P.L.S. Transmission Treatment (+stop leak) for 2 litres of oil.

Is there a mechanical problem or am I just paranoid? Is it wise to replace the oil with the above oil + addition?

Thanks!

 

[LT4man]

Ask Bill @ http://www.zfdoc.com about your noises.

I believe the oil recommended to you is not the right viscosity for your transmission.

I use the Castrol 10W60 oil found at the BMW dealerships.

Good luck!

 

[MRDZR1]

All normal, I have a Findanza on my '91 ZR1 and it does make noise while idling and wines up until 2500rpm, but I kind of like it, it remind me of the Rock crucher M22 my father had in is '67 L88.

But I do suggest the Bimmer 10W60!

Martin

 

[Hib Halverson]

First of all, the lubricant the shop sent you is not correct. Don't use a 75W90 gear oil in a ZF S6-40.

As you're in Germany, probably the easiest lubricant to obtain is the Castrol 10W60 engine oil used by some BMWs, however, there are better choices. Red Line Oil makes some good lubricants for the ZF, either MTL or Light Shockproof are the Red Line products to use.

Now, as for the noise...and know that diagnosing noises via the Internet...is very difficult. In reading and re-reading your post, I'm thinking the level of gear rattle and "growling" is more than even more than a late ZF should make.

How many miles are on the transmission and what is its service history?

 

[jonszr1]

nothing against hibs oils suggestions . but bill boudreau knows more about these trans, and if he suggests the 10 60 castrol thats what i would use. plus there have been some redline related failures when used in our trans,jmho

 

[Hib Halverson]

You have "nothing against hibs oil suggestions," but then you claim Red Line lubricants caused a failure in your trans.

Don't kiss my butt then say I'm full of poop. That's a bit disingenuous.

Bill does know a lot about those transmissions and he does recommend Castrol 10W60 in some cases, but he also will tell you his own tests show that the Castrol, while an acceptable lubricant, must be changed frequently, about every 10,000 miles which is pretty poor durability.

I've used Red Line Light Shockproof in two different ZFs for over a decade with no problems. Lubricant changes are done every 3 or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first and I spectrographically analyze oil samples at each change. Several years ago, Bill and I disassembled one of my ZFs and, after measuring some of the parts, Bill observed that, considering the mileage on the gearbox, he was amazed at the low level of wear.

So, "jonszr1"...can you, please, post the evidence you have proving that Red Line has caused failures of ZF S6-40s?

 

[jonszr1]

just call bill and he will give you a copy of the 3500 bill i ended up with due to red line trans lube . and you could at least have some class when you dis agree instead of flexing your journalistic pompas key strokes .i used to think you had some class. also there are others that have had the same problem with redline trans fluid .i only wish i had the computor skills to find them and the time but i have 3 businesses to run and over 120 people that look to me for paycks. and what is so wrong having to change trans fluid every 10-15 k it keeps things clean and one can maybe catch a problem before it gets real costly 60 for fluid every 10-15 k is way cheaper than 3500. i drive my 3 zr1 at the strip and on road courses alot .maybe you just cruize which is way easier on the trans than what i do . we are all intitled to our opinions and i was just honestly sharing what i have heard .have a ncie day

 

[jonszr1]

i have emailed bill for the info on the redline and will post as soon as i recieve it .

 

[jonszr1]

i must stand corrected after talking with bill. he says the redline maybe be very good .the only reason he doesnt recommend it is he hasnt done a wear test on it .

 

[Hib Halverson]

Just to restate my positions:

The occasional rumor that Red Line Lubricants cause failures of ZF S6-40s is just that...unsubstantiated rumor, perhaps spread by persons who are agents or employees of other lubricant makers or by people who just don't understand the facts but like to repeat what they "....have heard".

There are two low-viscosity gear lubricants made by Red Line which are appropriate for the ZF. One is MTL, which is a conventional ester-based, GL4-rated, 70W80 gear lubricant. MTL is a good choice for street use or street-track use.

The other is "Light Shockproof Gear Lubricant" a gel-type, ester based lubricant which uses a calcium-based EP additive package. Light Shockproof flows like a 30Wt engine oil or an 80W gear lube, but has the film strength of a 75W140 gear lubricant. Light Shockproof is a good choice in a transmission behind an engine that's been heavily modified in very aggressive street use in hot weather or racing.

 

[xfirez51]

Mario,

Can I ask what clutch disc your shop installed? Was it a sprung hub design or the stock ZR1 disc? ;squint: