New Tube Frame or Old Chassis for Restomod

[RedRicer]

I have decided to restomod my 1963 convertible.

My first question is should I keep the frame, weld it and clean it then sell the parts? (I am going to replace like suspension, brakes and wheels)
or do I sell the rolling chassis and replace it with a tube frame chassis with a suspension brakes and wheels? What would you do and why?

I think but I am not sure that a new chassis will perform better but cost more than keeping the frame fixing it and upgrading to coils and disk brakes while selling the suspension, brakes and wheels.

Would the sale of the rolling chassis make up for the difference?

 

[jrose7004]

I think that I'd redo the original frame and build from there.

 

[Silver Blue 58]

I think that I'd redo the original frame and build from there.

Ditto, remember your original frame has your serial/VIN # on it. In the future this may become important.



Fred

 

[RedRicer]

That was easy..thank you

I think the frame is in good shape already but overall it seems like the body has a lot of flex. Even cornering now seems

I was thinking i would weld the frame where the factory originally just spot welded it and have it cleaned up.

At the same time I was thinking of adding a roll cage for safety and to stiffen it up. My plan was to have one designed that wasn't to scca or nasa specs specifically, use smaller tubing and have it be more subtle but still add saftey and rigidity.

 

[Wilkinshc]

I see your post about selling your rolling chassi so I take it you decided to go aftermarket.

I would have to agree, go with a srIII frame with c5 front and rear suspension.

Actually the cheapest would be to buy a car already done but if you want the fun of doing it yourself and don't care that it will cost you more. Go with:

lsX motor (turbocharged or blower), c5 tranny and rearend, extended fenders, stainless steel tank, a/c, and updated interior. Should not be more than 80-100k. Really!

Good luck!
Chuck

 

[RedRicer]

A good deal on a rolling chassis

i was calling around talking to differnet builders about options and was offered a complete rolling chassis ready for wheels, tranny and engine without having to use mine as a core for approx 20k.

I figure if I can sell the one I have for 5-7 then why not?

Its probably not going to be that easy to sell a rolling chassis like this so I will likely not go with the aftermarket chassis.

I am really curious about the characteristics of the original chassis with bolted on coil over suspension using stock mounting points like the SharkBite? or VBP products and a steeroids conversion.

 

[Wilkinshc]

I originally planned a 30k build so I with the stock frame direction but which I had went with the srIII frame.

You sound just like I did when I started.

Right now I have VBP front a-arms, Streeroids rack, QA1 double adjustable shocks, Tom's Differential, ZL1 Ramjet, 200-4r tranny, c3 fronts spindles, alum. calipers, and more. I was side tracked building a new office but getting back to the car now. I am at around 80K and probably need 20K more.

So like I said it would be cheaper to buy one already done.

Here's a link at some pics:

65 Corvette Cpe pictures from corvettes photos on webshots

Good luck with your build.

 

[RedRicer]

Checked out the pics

So the Chassis in the last few pics on the left is the SRIII and the one on the right is the stock modified one?

It cost you 80k to get the under carraige and drive train to that point?

It looks like you are doing the work yourself so 80k in parts?

The progress looks great by the way.

 

[Wilkinshc]

RedRicer,

No the second frame is for a 63 impala. I did the stock frame but wish I would have went the srIII frame instead.

Quick breakdown:

ZL1 - 20k
2004r & torque convert- 6k
Tom's Reared- 10k
steeriods rack-1200
fuel tank- 1k
vbp suspension-1500
ssbc brakes-2k
Dash/guages-1500
a/c-1200
radiator-1200
wheels & tires-3k
pulley system-1300
fiberglass body parts-4500
sandblasting & power frame-1k
headlight motors & parts-1k
tilt colum & steering wheel 600
hooker headers & side pipes-600
wiring harness-300
rebuilt wiper motor-300
and odds & ends ie grade 8 bolts, fuel lines, brake lines, fluids, and more.

Around 58k in parts plus 20k for project vette. Them I have 2 quotes for 16k for bodywork and 3k for interior work.

So it is easy to get 80k into parts, bodywork, and interior.

Chuck

 

[RedRicer]

Tom's Rear end 10k?

What's so special about a Toms rear end? That sounds like a lot.

I guess the price that I have missjudged the most is the transmission. I had planned on using the 4 speed that is in there now but it seems like everyone replaces them.

I was estimating

10k for the Suspension
2k for the Chassis clean up
7k for the engine
2k for the tires and wheels
1k for wiring.

22k for a complete rolling chassis.

Then later I was planning on roughly:

10 K interior
15 K Exterior


So I think I need to add another 5 k for the transmisison?

 

[RedRicer]

Transmission has me stummped

Can I use the stock 4 speed? I would prefer a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission what are the recommendatoins?

 

[Wilkinshc]

Tom's converts the diff to a 12 bolt, a lot work goes into the prep on the housing, 31 spline axles, 1480 ujoints, 3 1/2 half shafts, and many other special parts. They hold up routely to 1000hp motors.

What I would ask is what are you doing yourself and what are you paying others to do?

Paying someone else to do work adds to the cost a lot.


Motor- Are you going to add a steel crank, new pistons, alum heads, roller cam, new pulley system? if so I would budget 10k. Or if you are thinking about fuel injection? add another 4-5k but the time you buy the unit, tuning, fuel lines, fuel pump and tank.

Tranny- I would really go with an overdrive. 5 speed seems to be the most popular for a manual. I went with an automatic overdrive. I hope to boost the motor later.

Also you have to be careful of the " well I might as well do this too". Then you have to add all the little things like, dual master cylinder & power booster, roll bar, shoulder seat belts, led lights, stereo, new glass, rechrome bumpers, new grill, stainless tank, and more.

Your own number so far is over 50k without fuel injection. Somethings that will make it a really nice driver is:

Overdrive, Fuel injection, A/C, Stereo, well insulated, dual master cylinder, pwr steering, 4 wheel disc, Automatic (my preference).

 

[RedRicer]

5 Speed Overdrive

I was looking at one of these

ford transmission swaps | tremec | mopar restoration parts | automatic transmission, camaro transmission

'direct' bolt on up to 500 continuos HP/TQ.

adapter and accessories for $3,750

and one of these:

Corvette Crate Engine GM Performance Parts ZZ4 350 - Mid America Motorworks

for $5,600

without any interior or body work I am estimating $21,500 in parts alone.

Add the following to the Engine and Tranny:

VB&P Performance Suspension 2579.99
Disk Brakes 2000
Radiator 1200
Steeroids Rack 1200
AC 1200
Wheels 1500
Tires 1500
Wiring Harness 500
Body Mounts 500

Transmission 3750
ZZ4 Crate Motor 5600

My Gas tank and fuel lines were replaced with an alumunium one when I restarted the car a few years ago. The rear end has been rebuilt and is in great shape.

I think that gets me pretty close to a complete modernized rolling chassis with a new engine and transmission. Without any labor!

I believe I will have a car that drives like new, is reliable and makes a very nice street car, but looks old. I will have the opportunity to spend 10-15 k on the interior some time in the future as well as 10-15k on the exterior as well. In the meantime I will have a spectacular sleeper/driver.

Everything else on the car works, new interior with sound deadening, console, dash, wipers, headlight motors, the paint is decent, lights work. Top leaks but who drives a 63 vette in the rain anyway?

Sound right? Did I do my homework?

And thanks for the time and input.

 

[Wilkinshc]

That sound good. I would add 4-5k for the little stuff.

With the motor and tranny you are doing I would stay with the stock frame and just weld it up and maybe brace it up in the place the road racers recommend. If you do a search, you should find post on bracing the frames.

Was the rearend built using the big block parts? If not, with a few hard launches you might tear it up. I would recommend BB Spindles, polished gear set, and splicer ujoints.

I think you have a good plan.

Good luck.

 

[GTR1999]

I now build the 12 bolts using Tom's parts and $10k is high. I just built a complete 12 bolt,3.5 shafts, 31 spline axles without cores and it was less.

 

[Wilkinshc]

It was for the diff.,1480 half shafts, trailing arms, leaf spring, half shaft loops, and hubs. Basically the complete rearend with all the accessories. It's been about 2 1/2 years since I got it but I am pretty sure everything was about 10k.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Have you looked at the C1 stuff from Jim Meyer Racing Products?

 

[RedRicer]

Jim Meyer

I looked at the Jim Meyer stuff but wasn't sure they have the equivalent for my C2. I planned on calling to find out.