Question: New vats modules?

[boomdriver]

Who has them? who sells new modules.

How can you do a proper bypass to make it home when the module acts up and won;t cooperate?

Grounding the module green wire seems to allow it to ok starter and run . otherwise its dead as toast.


Any suggestions as to where to buy NEW vats MODULES?

 

[boomdriver]

So, the module is simply NOT available anywhere?



my particular issue is the lack of signal to operate the enable relay. The relay is good, there is no signal from the module.

 

[boomdriver]

well, I went thru the FSM process for VATS diagnosis and did all the test. Its a faulty module as a whole, its not or unable to complete the ground path internally to the ECM...

It can be jumped and the starter works. Bypassing the enable relay offers no results..still no crank.
This is the conclusion of the FSM...Replace decoder module.

NEW QUESTION:

I bought a module off fleabay. How do you discover what the code is for this module? Seller does not know. Salvage guy. Are they listed by part number for each different code? or is there another way to tell what the code is??

I am aware of the VATS tool, or device that reads the system when installed...just not sure where to find one.

I looked at several modules and they all were listed as the same part number...coincidence?
The bad one on my car is a different number.....

I don;t really want to go thru 15 trial & error resistors attempts...
and wait for 15 minutes each to reset.:eyerole

Does anyone have the charts for the code/values? I've seen it but I wasn't smart enough to save it......

Until I get this sorted out I'll have to hide a toggle switch somewhere that I will have to hold over while turning the key...or a button somewhere under the carpet maybe...to complete the jumper circuit for the decoded ground.

 

[TedC]

Boomdriver,
1 402
2 523
3 681
4 887
5 1130
6 1470
7 1870
8 2370
9 3010
10 3740
11 4750
12 6040
13 7500
14 9530
15 11800

When the VATS module is first used it senses the key resistance and is "programmed". Dealerships only needed to stock one part. If the module you have is second hand, then it is already "programmed" and the code cannot be reset. You can play around with resistors until you find the right resistance, waiting only 4 minutes between each try. Your Chevy dealership has an interogator tool to check keys and can also be used to find the right code value but it is using a similar trial and error process. Once that step is complete, then you can have new keys made with the proper value (code).

 

[boomdriver]

Boomdriver,
1 402
2 523
3 681
4 887
5 1130
6 1470
7 1870
8 2370
9 3010
10 3740
11 4750
12 6040
13 7500
14 9530
15 11800

When the VATS module is first used it senses the key resistance and is "programmed". Dealerships only needed to stock one part. If the module you have is second hand, then it is already "programmed" and the code cannot be reset. You can play around with resistors until you find the right resistance, waiting only 4 minutes between each try. Your Chevy dealership has an interogator tool to check keys and can also be used to find the right code value but it is using a similar trial and error process. Once that step is complete, then you can have new keys made with the proper value (code).

Thanks Ted,

Actually someone told me which resistor on the board inside the module IS the key code, so I can simply look at the resistor and decode its colors to know what code I need by then using the chart that you provided. Once I know what ohms the replacement module is then its easy...

Yeah, I learned of the "interogator" this weekend and how it operates...someone else also told me of a variable resistor that covers 14 of the possible 15 codes...so I can sit here and do the same thing trial & error. I'm sure there are a few interogators sitting on shelves around Houston somewhere, but I don't want to pay some shop a small fortune to drag one out and go thru that process. I'm sure it would come at a premium.. Heck, I could probably live with the bypass and let the inj interrupt protect the car but I'm afraid that if one side of the module failed that the other could as well...and I am not certain that bypassing the other side (inj) is even possible. That may be a coded signal from the module to the ECM....it looks simple in the drawing but that seems to be TOO simple.. the starter enable circuit certainly is too easy to go around. Once I get the new (new to me) module in order and KNOW that its working, I think I will do some experimenting and see exactly what can be done with a completely failed module and what can't. If you know where, its an easy splice into a single wire to go around starter enable. The fuel inj might be just as easy...if you know which wire to tap....we'll soon see.

 

[TedC]

I stand corrected. According to the FSM under Theft Deterrent System it states "When the Pass Key Module is replaced the new key code may not match... New key needs to be cut...". Regardless, it looks like trial and error until you find the right one that matches your new module.