newcommer/ driveline help

[77D-VeTTe]

Hey guys, I just got my 77 coupe 4spd monday night. I'm still in shock when I go to work in the morning and she is sitting in my driveway. I have a few questions:

1st. My dad drove the car yesterday and now the clutch go bye bye. how much should a new clutch/ flywheel +install run?


2nd. When I put the key in the drivers side door to unlock it, the key doesnt movefar enough to completely unlock it. I took the door panel off and watched the mechanisms as i turned the key. after turning the key there is still more turning that needs to be done to unlock it. The interior knob works fine, its just the key hole thingy.


THanks guys
-D

 

[78SilvAnniv]

"its just the key hole thingy"

FINALLY!
Someone who speaks my language!

Welcome to the CACC, 77D.
Friendliest vette site on the 'net. I don't have an answer for your problem, just wanted to welcome you.
I had a similar problem with the 78, and we lithium greased everything we could see, and it seemed to help for a while. I am still not happy with the function of the key and locks. So, I'll wait and see what gets posted here for a fix.
Silver

 

[vigman]

Welcome

Sorry your clutch went BYE BYE, did you buy this from a dealer or private party....?
Having the car 1 day and the clutch goes BAD, yikes!



As far as the LOCK THINGY goes
replace the door lock mechanism ( both sides)

The shaft at the end of the lock gets worn out REALLY bad ( Cheap pot metal )

You can verify this by taking the door panel off, & having somebody slowly lock & unlock the door.

Lube everything really well, put it all back together ( While your there lube the window tracks)

Mike

 

[77D-VeTTe]

"lock thingy"-- dont ya love technical terms

ok now by "both sides" do you mean the driver and passenger side or both sides of the lock mechanism?? So I need to replace the entire lock assembly not just the key lock cylinder.

Well I got her form a private owner, that wasnt very nice to clutches. Im not that surprised that the clutch went so soon. Esp having been in the car when my father drove it ( I stopped watching the tach after about 4k as he was easing off the clutch in a parking lot.)

I just remembered another question....
Does anyone know if the American Racing 16"
standard rallye wheels would fit with no problem, or am I going to need an adapter for any wheel other than stock. Also whats a good tire brand and size to go with. I have some crapy tires on there now that can't hook up behind 4.11's at all

thanks all


- D
77 coupe 4spd

 

[JHL]

If you replace the clutch with something like a Centeforce it will run to about $350. Cheaper ones are available but imho it`s worth paying for the better set-up. I would also recommend replacing the whole thing inluding the release bearing at the same time. It`s tempting to save some money and just replace the plate but in the long run it will cost you.

If the flywheel is burnt or badly glazed you can have it ground on a surface grinder, I think you guys call it Blanchard grinding. On these machines the table rotates as well as the grinding stone giving the right finish. This should take a good shop no more than an hour to grind so add on an hours shop time for that.

If you can get the car up high enough it`s a fairly straightforward job to do yourself although the flywheel can be a bit tricky. I used and impact driver to loosen and tighten the bolts on mine but if you the old school ring spanner and big length of tube method you need to stop the engine from turning.

IF YOU USE THIS SPANNER AND BIG TUBE METHOD BE 100% SURE THE CAR WILL NOT ROCK OR MOVE ON THE JACKSTANDS AS YOU HEAVE ON THE FLYWHEEL BOLTS. ONE OF THE LOCAL HOTROD GUYS IN OUR COMMUNITY WAS KILLED RECENTLY TRY TO INSTALL AN AXLE. HIS TRUCK CAME OFF THE JACKSTANDS AND CRUSHED HIM.

Another thing to watchout for is the distibutor hitting the firewall as the engine tips back. If you are confident I would remove it all together, tilting the engine back as far as it will go will make the gearbox much easier to get in and out. Be carefull with this that you are not stretching any hoses or wires as it tilts back.

Good Luck
J.

 

[vigman]

What I mean

Is the FULL lock piece , not just the inner guts.

Mike

 

[JHL]

Keith,

even with the cap off the base of the HEI will still catch the firewall if the engine is tilted back to far. It only takes five minutes to remove and with the engine tilted as far as it will go it`s much easier to get the geabox in and out. I have to say though that when I recently did my clutch I was able to work in a garage that had a four post lift and a transmission jack.

J.

 

[JHL]

Keith,

You got me on that one:L :L My 81 only has the electric fan so I never thought of that. I`ll add " remove fan" to the previous comments.:L

J.

 

[rpounds]

Dude!! Sounds like the first thing that you need to do is keep your dad out of it!! Just kidding.

I don't have any input concerning the clutch, however, let me try to shed a little light on the door lock situation.

When I bought my '75, I had the same problems with both door locks. The lock cylinders had been removed when the car was painted, which was my first clue. The second clue was that on both sides the door handles had been replaced. Therein was the real problem. The problem was not with the door cylinder not turning far enough, although that's the way it appeared. It was actually with the adjustment of the actuating rod that runs from the door handle to the lock mechanism. I used the old 'trial and error' method to adjust the rod. Adjust it, put it in and try it, take it out and adjust it, try it out, pull it out and adjust it, put it in, try it out, repeat . . . you get the idea. Someone here may have a better way to get it right the first time. For me however, this was the solution. A good way to check it out? Remove the door handle actuating rod and see if that solves the lock cylinder problem. I believe you will find that this is the answer.

Ron

 

[Bullitt]

As far as the locks are concerned, replacing the lock cylinders is not difficult, but the access will drive you up the wall. The access plate behind the door panel is easy enough to remove, but expect some hand cramps will try to dislodge the lock cylinder c-clip. Alot of pentetrant and the right screwdriver will go a long ways to easier removal. The lock cylinder anti-theft plate is easy to remove, but is a bit of a pain lining up again. Why the cylinder went bad is beyond me, because that's the way I bought my Vette. In remounting my passenger door panel though, I've encountered a problem in unlocking the door from the outside. Inside is no problem, so I think that the clearance between the panel and the door lock rods is affected. I'm thinking of removing the anti-rattle rubber on the lock rod and see if that solves it. I haven't been able to get any time to work on my '71, so I'll have to wait and see what I can get to work. --Bullitt

 

[77D-VeTTe]

Thanks for all the replies. I got the clutch taken care, fixed the accelerator cable while I was down there.... :bang what a mess. Next week I will tackle the door locks and parking brake. I thought maybe the parking break was just in need of tightening but nnnoooooooo its all fubar oh and I need to un-rig the vacuum lines to the headlamps. cant wait till I get to the engine mod stage VROOM VROOM


thanks guys and have a good weekend,

-D
'77 coupe