No Top End...

[Mad-Mic]

The Ostrich from Moates is my first choice, was also looking at a Romulator. I was offered a used Romulator, but it wasn't much of a discount off the new price so I didn't get it. I'd love to just be able to borrow one for a month or two since I probably wouldn't need it after this - which is why Mic and I are considering splitting the cost of one.

BTW - I too was told that you wouldn't need a heated O2 sensor if your headers were coated on the inside. After Mic's done with my laptop, I'll be able to check whether the car goes in and out of closed-loop like his did before he added a heated sensor.

[RICHR]

coming over in a few

 

[C4Tom]

Just an idea... I could be wrong...

When does the torque convertor lock-up? Does it wait until OD on the 700R4?
I've read about a plug-in module by B&M that holds off the lock-up.

Also, I believe back pressure need is dictated by the cam profile. According to the amount of valve overlap you cam has. With long overlap and lack of back pressure there will be too much cylinder scavaging, making it go lean at higher RPM.

My pennies worth...

 

[fredk]

TPIS has a heatrd O2 for around $50.

 

[fredk]

TPIS has a heated O2 for around $50.

 

[geekinavette]

Converter lockup is computer-controlled on the 700R4. There is a 700R4 model that has a hydraulic controlled TCC...not sure what those were used on though. I imagine when the TCC locks up varies over the model years. There is a switch attached to the brake pedal...basically if the pedal is pressed enough to turn the brake lights on then the converter is forced to unlock. Just a little trick you can try and see if the converter clutch locking up is giving you grief.


Bill

 

[WhalePirot]

I am running TPIS coated LT headers. I do not know if they are coated inside or not.

Me, too, and I changed to the heated Bosch. I am not positive, but I think they are inside coated. The heated sensor also warms up faster, bringing the ECM 'online' quicker; plus it stays warm and operating, even if the pipes go cold.

All that is a GOOD thing.

Besides, you're always looking for a good mod and a home or a Ben or so.

 

[rrubel]

Have you looked at my little "invention": http://www.speedtronics.net/aboutprominator.asp

That looks really cool; being a software guy I'm always envious of those who can do hardware .

Little pricy for me, though - looks like I'd be at $250-$350 depending on pro or regular. Not sure what else I'd need with the basic Ostrich, but it's only $175. If I need a bunch of adapters, though, that'd also get pushed into the same price range. I like how yours has easily selectable programs (can you say EMISSIONS vs TRACK vs ECONOMY?).

[RICHR]

 

[Vettefan87]

On this O2 I have two white wires and a black wire. I am assuming that the black wire is the sensor. But the two white wires are for the heater, which is ground and what is the source? When Mic says use the wiper motor he means the switch right? And to put a 30 amp fuse inline of the source for the O2? What gauge wire do I need also?

 

[rrubel]

Mic ran a wire from the sensor into the engine bay and tapped directly into the hot wire on the wiper motor itself - it provides a switched 12v. He put a fuse block on that wire between the wiper motor and the sensor.
[RICHR]

 

[Mad-Mic]

Just an idea... I could be wrong...

When does the torque convertor lock-up? Does it wait until OD on the 700R4?
I've read about a plug-in module by B&M that holds off the lock-up.

Also, I believe back pressure need is dictated by the cam profile. According to the amount of valve overlap you cam has. With long overlap and lack of back pressure there will be too much cylinder scavaging, making it go lean at higher RPM.

My pennies worth...

like i said back pressure is a myth, you only need just alittle "back" pressure for optimum scavenging. with the bends in our exhaust it gives us enough back pressure to make optimum torque. Back pressure is good for torque but bad for horsepower. optimum back pressure is roughly 5% less flow on the exhaust side than the intake side. that means it's a balanced "Air" pump. take a garden hose and tape a straw on the end of it and then blow thru the garden hose part. you'd know what i mean here. hose = intake straw = exhaust. now turn it around and thats what you get with a L98 car.

the computers in these cars keep the AF pretty steady. Granted mine was pig rich when she was bone stock but with a few bolt on's and exhaust work this is what i got..... a consistent 12.9:1 AF.

 

[geekinavette]

That looks really cool; being a software guy I'm always envious of those who can do hardware .

Little pricy for me, though - looks like I'd be at $250-$350 depending on pro or regular. Not sure what else I'd need with the basic Ostrich, but it's only $175. If I need a bunch of adapters, though, that'd also get pushed into the same price range. I like how yours has easily selectable programs (can you say EMISSIONS vs TRACK vs ECONOMY?).

[RICHR]

If you think that is more to your liking...money is something we can "negotiate" (it's nice being "in charge"...heheh). The nice thing about is it's semi-"permanant"...yet with your ECM you can just unplug it and go right back to a MEMCAL.

Bill

 

[Vettefan87]

Well I got it installed, and all wired up and I have no codes so I guess it is working. The old one did look fouled out so I guess this was a good thing. The car does seem to pull a little harder but I didn't take it on a spirited highwary run....just yet . Oh well I go back to the track this Friday as long as it is not muggy out. Thanks to Mic, Geek, and all the others who helped me in this thread.

 

[MoeJr]

not to get off topic but are the romulator or the ostrich able to accept proms out of the ECM and display what is on them to allow you to change parameters? Do they even make such a device?

 

[C4Tom]

Well I got it installed, and all wired up and I have no codes so I guess it is working. The old one did look fouled out so I guess this was a good thing. The car does seem to pull a little harder but I didn't take it on a spirited highwary run....just yet . Oh well I go back to the track this Friday as long as it is not muggy out. Thanks to Mic, Geek, and all the others who helped me in this thread.

Now... will your computer need to recalibrate to the new O2 sensor before it pulls hard all the way through??? :confused

 

[Vettefan87]

Now... will your computer need to recalibrate to the new O2 sensor before it pulls hard all the way through??? :confused

I did unplug the ECM for about a half hour before starting the car up with the new one in. It does seem to pull harder, but it could be my imagination. Guess I will just have to take it to the track .

 

[C4Tom]

Okay, but you will have to drive it some miles so the ECM can recalibrate. So you may not see any dramatic changes for a little while... if you see any at all.

Good luck Friday!!

 

[Vettefan87]

Yeah I had it out for an hour or so last night cruising around and what not. I will try to drive it a couple more days as long as it is not pig hot out. It is like 95 degrees here with the heat index close to or over 100...

 

[C4Tom]

I will try to drive it a couple more days as long as it is not pig hot out. It is like 95 degrees here with the heat index close to or over 100...

Hey no kidding!! I didn't know Indiana was in a tropic zone. ad ad

Black Vettes are much better in 70 degree weather.

 

[Vettefan87]

Hey no kidding!! I didn't know Indiana was in a tropic zone. ad ad

Black Vettes are much better in 70 degree weather.

Yeah 100 degree swing state, it is incredible. 0 in the winter and 100 in the summer. I really need to get my AC fixed ad

 

[geekinavette]

not to get off topic but are the romulator or the ostrich able to accept proms out of the ECM and display what is on them to allow you to change parameters? Do they even make such a device?

In a word...no. In order to "see" what's in your existing PROM you would need to remove it and use a device programmer to read the contents to a .bin file on your PC, then open that .bin file in an editing utility like Tunerpro or Tunercat...along with the appropriate definition file for your ECM (which is unfortunately not available for 84 and older Corvettes). For the '82 and '84 CFI cars, what most people do is upgrade to a 1228746 ECM out of a Caprice or F-body (that's what I have in mine). I'm not sure about Craig's Autoprom...I think he may have added a PROM reader in that, I don't recall.

Vettefan87...I HEAR ya about the AC! That trip to BG and back without AC was enough for me! I got mine working this past weekend...replaced the compressor, filled 'er up with Envirosafe (actually it's still about 4oz low), and replaced the blower fan with one for a '90 to get more air out of the vents.

Bill