Northern Universal Radiator. What hoses to use?

[lone73]

I've been spending some time in the archives and I'm thinking now that I might go with the Northern universal rad that Jack recommends. I'd buy it now but I'm not sure how it's gonna look.

How do the saddle's have to be modified, or do they?

How do I handle the lower hose connection? That connection comes out striaght according to the guys at Motorville.

If different hoses, what are they? P/N's?

Thanks a bunch!!

BTW, got my old radiator out yesterday and looks like I'm going to be forced to replace the support. The whole bottom end is about gone. Where is the cheapest place to buy one of them critters?

 

[Vette-4-Life]

I purchased the Northern radiator also for my 80. don't know if 73 is the same but this is my version of what will happen:

i purchased the Northern Universal Radiator, you must also purchase the overflow nipple separately. You are correct in stating the lower hose connection comes out straight, there is also no drain bung. I had a drain bung installed and the lower outlet modified to point up, approximating the stock angle (no bubberization for me). Then the fun part is finding hoses that fit. The big difference is the upper outlet on the rad is the same size as the thermostat housing and the lower outlet is the same size as the water pump, this is not how your stock rad is. The upper was easy, used a universal and was able to angle it down just enough so that it is about same height as rad cap. You'll run into problems if hose is above cap, something about air getting trapped and wanting to gurgle out thru your overflow tank. I was able to find a direct fit for the lower by taking the stock lower hose and looking thru the stores inventory (Murrays Auto Parts) for one that looked similiar yet had the same size on both ends. I have no idea what car this hose is for since it only had a part # on it and the employees said they could not cross reference it to a particular vehicle so i bought 2 of them. The rad sits in the support just fine, i made mounting brackets to hold it at the top.

How do you plan on cooling this rad? It is a bit thicker than stock and i could see no way to install it, the shroud, and the mechanical fan without a fair amount of fabricating. So i converted to electric fans (this appears to be what most have done when putting in a universal, i used dual 11" spals) which added a whole new dimension and cost to the 'Universal' rad.

I know that i seem to be in the minority here but i would not get a universal again because i did not save any money doing this plus the amount of time to have rad modded, find hoses, make brackets..., i would buy the direct fit or the stock replacement. I have noticed no difference in cooling using the alum. rad. i think what makes the difference is the electric fan setup.

I don't believe there is a cheap rad support.

 

[lone73]

Vette-4-life

Thanks for your honest input. That kinda' puts me on the fence whether to go with stock or the northern radiator. I don't want to have a bunch of trouble getting it back on the road.

I would like to see a cool looking aluminum rad under the hood, I just can't justify 475.00 for a DeWitts direct fit. I can get a stock rad from TLD for $275. Can't see paying an extra $200 just to have it be aluminum.

Cheapest support I found was $265, also from TLD. It's on its way to Austin.

thanks
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[Jack]

The challenges and solutions Vette-4-Life found when installing universal aluminum rad are fairly typical ... typical for any universal, not just Northern. As there are differences amongst shrouds/rads/hoses throughout the C3 years ... there is no single approach ... one year/model maybe more difficult than the next ... or easier. Regardless, near certainty you'll have to find a lower hose and probably an upper.

Time is important ... if you have time to piddle with fitment ... then a universal may be a good choice. If your time is quite valuable a universal is not for you. Also, if your fab skills or resources are limited then you'll end up paying someone to do it. Chasing parts/hoses takes time, time is money ... and everyones' is worth something.

I know of no universal that routinely ships with bung/draincock, cap or overflow barb.

I differ on one small point ... all the universal Northerns I've seen have a lower outlet that is NOT straight out ... all I've seen have a slight inward/upward angle ... most other brands' universals are too. Top straight, bottom angled. I buy stuff from Motorville ... not all of em are experts. Regardless, the universals' lowers are much straighter than OE.

I add this personal testimonial about Northern universal's robust construction: We had a race car that got its nose more or less torn off ... including the rad hoses torn away from rad. It had a Northern universal rad. The rad was badly bent ... nearly 1/8 turn twist between R & L tanks. Well after it laid on the shop floor I noted there was not a drop of water around it ... wondered if it really wasn't cracked. So I filled it back up and no leaks. So we laid it back on floor and STOOD on it and bent it back nearly straight. I refilled it and again no leaks. A couple of us were thinking "I don't believe this schlitz!" Well ... the real kicker was that we ended up putting the rad back in the car ... and raced it ... NO LEAKS! Safe to say we got real lucky ... but it also confirmed (for me) how well Northern's flues, header panels and tanks are put together.

For perspective ... I also had a late 80's street oldsmobile that got hit pretty hard in front ... bent the whiz out of the OEM plastic-alum rad ... but it never leaked either. On the other hand ... last week, I bought a real clunker of a 77 C-10 pickup ... ABUSED & CHEAP ... but fine for hauling trash and junk around! It's leaking around top rad inlet (brass) because someone has overtightened the hose clamp until it's crushed the inlet. I very gently rework inlet until it's nearly cylindrical again ... but still, it was too much force ... I broke the solder joint. A few choice words & 15 mins later I'd resoldered with no leak.

So the universal route is fine for some folks / some models ... beyond that is where guys like Tom DeWitt and his first class drop in rads provide a near perfect solution.

As for stock OE type rads ... look for a local wholesaler that specializes in supplying body shops with NEW aftermarket repair sheetmetal (fenders, hoods etc) ... most such suppliers also offer OE rads at good prices ... usually better than the net. Local supplier has OE type #717 (3 row brass) fits most 77-82 vette for about $150.
JACK:gap

 

[lone73]

....As for stock OE type rads ... look for a local wholesaler that specializes in supplying body shops with NEW aftermarket repair sheetmetal (fenders, hoods etc) ... most such suppliers also offer OE rads at good prices ... usually better than the net. Local supplier has OE type #717 (3 row brass) fits most 77-82 vette for about $150.
JACK:gap

Jack,
Thanks for that reply, very informative.
Two questions please sir...

1. How do you handle the overflow barb problem with the universals?

2. Considering the OE rad styles...
I've called all the mail order rad places I can find and nothing under about $400 for a brass/copper. Who is the place your talking about that has one for $150? I might just order from them.

Thanks

 

[Bizzy77]

I'm restoring my 1977 Corvette; I got my 4-row radiator for $154.00 through eBay from Ace Radiator in Independence, Missouri. You can contact them at www.AceRadiator.com or call them at 1-800-643-0678.

Bizzy77
Plano, Texas

 

[lone73]

Bizzy77, Thanks, got 'em working on a price for me. I'm beginning to believe though that the '73 radiator is a little bit unique and that's why I'm getting such high quotes.

Since it ain't original anyway I wonder if I could put a radiator from, say a 76 or 77 in my '73 and have it work and fit reasonably well?

thanks

 

[Jack]

The overflow is not a problem at all ... a threaded hole is already there at side of neck ... just get standard $1 brass hose barb from hardware store and screw it in. I can't recall for sure, but I think it's 1/8" tapered pipe thread ... it's same thread as where oil pressure line/send unit screws in block.

73 rad IS different from 77 up ... 77 up has a near straight out UPPER inlet ... and other dimensional differences. Don't guess or wonder, Go to nearly any real auto parts store and look them up in their radiator catalog ... it'll show the dimensions and configurations. A 77 rad can probably be cajoled into fitting a 73 ... probably similar to, but a bit easier than fitting a universal rad.

Since it ain't original ... maybe the rad's already been changed out to later model?

BTW ... for 77 up C3 (brass) with integral trans cooler ... #717 is 3 flue, #718 is 4 flue.

Robert's Wholesale Body Parts Inc, Florence SC (843) 664-0150. There's surely an equivalent place much nearer to you. BTW, the $154 4 flue brass rad at ACE is a pretty good price ... sure it's Offshore ... but that IS what you get for that price.
JACK:gap