Help! Odd noise

[mc1992LT1]

I have a 1992 LT1 coupe. I back out of my driveway..I start to move forward in drive,(it has an automatic) and I hear a clicking noise coming from the rearend or brakes area that reminds me of the sound a car makes if it is put in park while the car is still moving. The sound only lasts for maybe two seconds and it only happens after I have used reverse first. Also,it does not always make the sound after backing up. Any ideas? Thanks

 

[BigJimZ16]

I have a 1992 LT1 coupe. I back out of my driveway..I start to move forward in drive,(it has an automatic) and I hear a clicking noise coming from the rearend or brakes area that reminds me of the sound a car makes if it is put in park while the car is still moving. The sound only lasts for maybe two seconds and it only happens after I have used reverse first. Also,it does not always make the sound after backing up. Any ideas? Thanks

Loose axle nut??

 

[mc1992LT1]

Loose axle nut??

Thanks Big Jim,I'll check that out for sure. I'm in the process of installing new u-joints anyway so that's a good idea.

 

[tmkassin]

Check your owners manual. That is the ABS computer setting. It only happens the first time you take off. It's normal.

 

[mc1992LT1]

Thanks tmkassin. Good to hear from another '92 owner. I didn't get an owners' manual with the car so that's next on my list. I'm really happy to hear that this is a normal abs noise...I've spent alot of money on this car trying to make it more reliable and I thought for sure I'd be throwing more money at it. Don't get me wrong...buying this car got me back in the garage playing with something that I truly like. I'm 60 and so excited to get in this car and drive. What a blast.Thanks so much.

 

[boomdriver]

Lets make sure its NOT hub bearings or u-joints before something comes apart....

IF its the ABS....its more of a growling sound that ONLY happens when the car moves over 3 mph in forward. The ABS runs a self-test and sets the ABS pump after the car moves a few ft and reaches 3 mph in forward. It briefly growls, pulses the brake pedal (can be felt sometimes) and then its good to go. The ABS is the single most tested, safety checked, and engineered piece of hardware/electronics on any car. It does this every start up, everytime the car moves after start up.

To eliminate the hub bearings jack up the car wiggle each wheel by grabbing at 6;00 & 12;00 and try to feel any play in/out as you wiggle. IF you CAN feel some movement, its time to replace that hub bearing. IF you can SEE the movement its time to PARK the car and repair because the wheel is about to fall off. These rear bearings hubs assys are held in place by 3 torx bolts....only. The spindle nut only holds the inner bearing race....so a worn bearing CAN come apart and separate.
U-joints...you have 6...use the solid joints and change them all. Grease zerks on joints are useless since its almost impossible to access the zerk when its in service. Even a needle gun is difficult if not impossible.

 

[mc1992LT1]

Thanks boomdriver..I'm planning on installing new u-joints and I'll be checking the hubs,ect. This car is in really nice shape but with 66,000 miles on it I think I'll feel alot better if I check it over completely.Thanks

 

[boomdriver]

I'll give you the info now just in case you do need to buy a hub bearing assembly....spend the money on good ones !
They range in price from $75 to $200 each. The cheapo's are chinese made POS that will be loose from day one and be worn out in 10,000 miles. The OEM equivelent or GM part cost alot more but can be found at other places besides the GM dealership and be purchased for alot less...$125 to 150 range.

One other thing thats very important...
if you do not have one yet, get a FSM and follow the repair proceedures that are outlines in the book. Its the Bible of Corvette ownership/repair/maint and will save you thousands of dollars every year. Too often folks throw parts at a problem that is as simple as a fusable link thats hidden. With all the electronics in the Corvette, guessing is not an option. With the tight specs of the Corvette, close 'nuff and bubba engineering can be fatal to the car and the driver.

FSM come in 2 book sets for around $75 used on flea-bay or a little more new. Do a search here for FSM and there is a link somewhere to order new books on paper or CD. I prefer the older paper book because the electrical book has the drawings in color the same thing as your cars harness which makes it much easier to work with. One book is nothing but electrical and the other book is all mechanical/maint or repair diagnostic proceedure.

 

[mc1992LT1]

Thanks again boomdriver..I'll be buying an owners' manual and some shop manuals before I tear into these projects.

 

[boomdriver]

Thanks again boomdriver..I'll be buying an owners' manual and some shop manuals before I tear into these projects.

The FSM will pay for itself the first year, with precise diagnostics and the very good flow-charts that give you detailed instruction on what to do if it does this or that.

 

[Itshakes]

Help! Odd Noise

I have the 2 factory manuals and have used them often on our '96 LT4. I'm 69 years old and not afraid to tackle any repair with the use of these manuals. Best thing I ever bought.

 

[G Winter]

Boomdriver, On my 90 the ABS also does the test in reverse.Maybe all yrs are not the same in this respect.


Glenn