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Oh my lord!

  • Thread starter Thread starter jiangtao
  • Start date Start date
J

jiangtao

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Not a sighting of him, but a quote from the Chevy dealer! I posted the code 32 thread and finally took it to the dealer so they could do a diagnostic. My MAF and EGR proved to be true. I asked them how much they wanted for the job and they said $1,521.00!!!!!! I replaced the MAF in about 10 mins, but still got the 32 code. I am going to replace my vapor canister and soelinoid tomorrow{gas smell} My question is how much of a pain is it to replace the EGR?



Edit: I altered the title to keep from offending too many people. It just wasn't appropriate for this forum.
Ken
 
I have just put a locking gas cap on it,BUT I do need to replace the gasket that is around the fuel pump harness and the tank. Would that do the same thing? Should a gas cap on an '86 be vented? I am sure that the gasket is making up for any venting issues! LOL Thanks, Jiangtao
 
Thank God for this forum! I know there isn't any broken hoses or lines, but I think the canister itself is bad. I will replace the gasket. If I had the wrong cap on would that cause hard starts only when the outside temp is hot and VERY humid? Should I hear a hissing sound when I open the cap to put gas in? Thanks again.
 
Bring that up to Chicago and I'll change that EGR out for you in 30 minutes.:L

It's not that bad, there are just a bunch of bolts. The problem I encountered was the EGR bolts itself. They are difficult to get to so use a crows feet socket. It's 3/8" while the rest of the bolts are metric or torx.
 
Ken said:
Edit: I altered the title to keep from offending too many people. It just wasn't appropriate for this forum.


Ken

Thank You. :) I do appreciate that.
 
Edit: I altered the title to keep from offending too many people. It just wasn't appropriate for this forum.

Ken
[/QUOTE]

Thanks - Ken
 
Did you replace the MAF Burnoff relay? Located just behind the battery on my '89.


Good luck, (and screw the dealer)
Dino
 
I haven't replaced the burnoff relay yet. Is it in the same place on an '86? I thought there was also another relay that should be replaced with it too?
 
I am not sure if it is in the same location or not. Check the service manual if you have one. I did replace both relays since they were the same part number. They are about $11 each.

Hopefully, this helps.

Thanks,
Dino
 
jiangtao said:
I haven't replaced the burnoff relay yet. Is it in the same place on an '86? I thought there was also another relay that should be replaced with it too?

There are two, beh :eyerole ind the battery, toward the firewall. Replace them both for about $30, then put your old MAF back on, good chance that will be your problem. The dealer should have done or suggested this first
 
Precisely why I do the work myself. Typical price for labor at a Chevy dealer is about $70-$80 per hour. Not to mention the very high mark up of parts. If I had taken my Vette in to the dealer with all the things that have gone bad with it in the time I've owned it, I would never be able to even afford having it. Just think of all the Craftsman tools you can buy by doing the work yourself and saving hundreds on this project alone. Heck you already fixed half of it in 10 min.
 
jiangtao said:
My question is how much of a pain is it to replace the EGR?


It's cake. Just undo the hoses at the Throttle body, remove the throttle linkage braket from the side of the plenum, and unbolt the upper runner bolts on both sides and lift the plenum up and unplug the wire connector at the bottom. Now you have full access to the EGR valve.

As mentioned by Edmond, the hardest part of it all is removing the EGR hold down bolts. But with a "crowfoot" attachment, it's cake. Now you can go buy yourself a nice set of Craftsman tools with all that money you saved.:upthumbs

A heads up when you go buy a new EGR Valve. Get one that has the vaccum line "nipple" on the side, not on the top, cause if it's on the top it will hit the plenum and not allow it to do down all the way to align the bolt holes. I did not pay attention to this when I bought mine and had to trim off some of the "nipple" so my plenum would be able to go down enough to get the bolt holes aligned.
 
You don't even have to take the TB off or undo the coolant lines. Just take the 4 bolts that attach the TB onto the plenum along with the throttle cables and electrical connectors. That'll give you enough wiggle room to pull the plenum up when you take off the runner bolts and the one bolt that holds the throttle cable clip.

Be careful when you take the plenum off. Make sure the connectors on the bottom have been disconnected as well as the brake booster line at the rear of the plenum.
 
Edmond said:
Make sure the connectors on the bottom have been disconnected as well as the brake booster line at the rear of the plenum.

Yes. Forgot that one.
 

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