Ohhhh! NOOOOO! I have to remove the Tank on my 1984 :~

[Streetlight Ministry]

I have to remove the Tank on my 1984. Its real dirty inside. The car sat for a long time.

Are there any photos for tank removal? Looks like the frame has to off in the tail :CRASH

Is there a way I can properly clean the tank from the sender hole?

Thanks in advance

 

[boomdriver]

I have to remove the Tank on my 1984. Its real dirty inside. The car sat for a long time.

Are there any photos for tank removal? Looks like the frame has to off in the tail :CRASH

Is there a way I can properly clean the tank from the sender hole?

Thanks in advance

If you have the top off, then its not a big deal to clean out. After its been drained, reach in and wipe it out. I made a "mop" from a small cotton string mop head and used that to wipe all around inside.

I've also used a siphon hose to suck up trash and debris as gas was siphoned out. That will get 90% of the stuff out. The sender is the worst part with rust on the tubes. be sure to clean that and use a NEW strainer/screen. A new tank gasket is needed as well. This is not a big deal. Just use common sense and remember at ALL TIMES....that its the fumes that are explosive..so do this is a well ventilated area.

 

[WRECKER88]

All you have to do is remove the fuel pump-sending unit from the top of the tank. Open the gas door and you have to remove 4 screws, then remove the rubber boot. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector and the fuel hoses. Remove the 10mm bolts and pull out the fuel pump-sending unit. It is that easy. When you have it apart i would replace the fuel pump. Last year i replaced my fuel pump and i did it in about 1 hr. Good luck.

 

[Streetlight Ministry]

thanks all!
i couldnt get my arm in the hole enough to clean it out, so my daughter volunteered to put on the long gloves and clean it out for me.

The rubber tube/ hose from the pump connection had dissolved. What a mess! After she cleaned it out it looked great!

===> Im putting in an 85 high pressure pump instead of the 84 low pressure pump. The new pump didnt come with a short fat rubber tube so I'm guessing i need to pick up a high pressure gas line to make the connection from the pump to the metal fuel line. has anybody any experience with that?

Does this capacitor need to be replaced or just removed?

 

[boomdriver]

thanks all!
i couldnt get my arm in the hole enough to clean it out, so my daughter volunteered to put on the long gloves and clean it out for me.

The rubber tube/ hose from the pump connection had dissolved. What a mess! After she cleaned it out it looked great!

===> Im putting in an 85 high pressure pump instead of the 84 low pressure pump. The new pump didnt come with a short fat rubber tube so I'm guessing i need to pick up a high pressure gas line to make the connection from the pump to the metal fuel line. has anybody any experience with that?

Does this capacitor need to be replaced or just removed?
View attachment 4165

Leave that. The new pump will have instructions on how to wire it in, Its pretty cut-n-dried.

BUT....

the pumps are different. Your 84 is low pressure because the injectors only require 14 lbs of pressure. The 85 pump is for TPI that runs more like 40 lbs. I think the solution is in higher volume, not necessarily higher pressures.

If you run 40 lbs thru your system as it is, you could blow things apart if the old stuff won;t handle the higher pressure.(hoses, O-rings etc)

There are upgraded pumps for the 84 CF injection. Everybody does it. I'm not sure what else needs to be checked or how the pressure is regulated on the 84, but somebody around here does.

Hopefully someone that has more info on this will jump in and describe exactly what has to be done and what else needs to be modified or adjusted.

Anytime there is gas and injection, get some fuel hose specifically for injection. Its stronger and more durable.

 

[WRECKER88]

Looks like it is time to replace the sending unit asm.

Corvette Gas Tank Sending Unit, Without Fuel Pump, 1984 - Corvette Parts and Accessories

 

[Streetlight Ministry]

I'm going to clean up the sender before I
think about getting a new one.

 

[boomdriver]

I fail to understand why GM did'nt see this as a potential problem...

with possible water, and alcohol in gasoline that makes it possible to hold water in fuel, the steel sender/pump assy tubes and top are the biggest source of rust contamination in a fuel system. They could have at least coated them somehow instead of leaving bare steel there to rust.

Every filter I've ever changed was full of rust, every screen was too. Every sender I've pulled has rust spots on the tubes or plate if not everywhere. I used acid to clean my last one. I could have bead blasted it but I was afraid that scarring the surface would provide more places for rust to grow.

 

[Streetlight Ministry]

yea, so im going to clean my old sender just so it can get all rusty again

is the fuel gauge sender resistor type? I couldnt get a resistance reading?

 

[boomdriver]

yea, so im going to clean my old sender just so it can get all rusty again

is the fuel gauge sender resistor type? I couldnt get a resistance reading?

I see the sender as a resistor type, but there have been arguements from some people that swear up & down that there is NO way that a single wire carrying a varying resistance signal can work......They say that it MUST have reference voltage...which it does not in this case. If there is a voltage wire to that coil, its very well hidden. Look at the thing...there is only one wire from the coil. The other wires all go to the pump.

If i remember right, you should be able to get a reading by working the float thru its range with a digital meter connected to the wire from the coil and ground on the tubes. These often fail due to crud build-up inside the coil. Its a simple hard plate coil, not wire wraps but plates that the contact sweeps across to find its resistance value. I have opened them before and cleaned them, but you have to be VERY careful with the small metal tabs on the coil housing. If they break off, its tough to secure the housing again. The contact is pretty fragile as well.
If opening the coil does not sound like a do-able project, I have also used a mild acid to wash out the coil and dissolve the rust/crud inside. Thats a risk, but it has worked for me.
If there is a signal but inconsistant or wrong, many folks get results from adding Techron fuel system cleaner to thier gas and allowing that to clean the sender as fuel is used. That may take several tanks of treatment if its going to work at all.

 

[Streetlight Ministry]

I see the sender as a resistor type, but there have been arguements from some people that swear up & down that there is NO way that a single wire carrying a varying resistance signal can work......They say that it MUST have reference voltage...which it does not in this case. If there is a voltage wire to that coil, its very well hidden. Look at the thing...there is only one wire from the coil. The other wires all go to the pump.

If i remember right, you should be able to get a reading by working the float thru its range with a digital meter connected to the wire from the coil and ground on the tubes. These often fail due to crud build-up inside the coil. Its a simple hard plate coil, not wire wraps but plates that the contact sweeps across to find its resistance value. I have opened them before and cleaned them, but you have to be VERY careful with the small metal tabs on the coil housing. If they break off, its tough to secure the housing again. The contact is pretty fragile as well.
If opening the coil does not sound like a do-able project, I have also used a mild acid to wash out the coil and dissolve the rust/crud inside. Thats a risk, but it has worked for me.
If there is a signal but inconsistant or wrong, many folks get results from adding Techron fuel system cleaner to thier gas and allowing that to clean the sender as fuel is used. That may take several tanks of treatment if its going to work at all.

Thank You! -The sender has a single wire as it uses the the common ground of the fuel tube & common ground wire.
I guess after I clean it up a little i can plug it in and see it the gauge works.
This is a project car, so I just need it running enough to get it in & out of the garage.

IS the fuel filter near the passenger front tire or the drivers front tire? I have to blow out the fuel lines in between getting parts.