Oil Pressure Sending Unit location

[Bob Chadwick]

Russ,

I think I'm just going to pay to have it done. The mechanics I have been working with all say the same thing; The send their own work out to the guy I'm going to use. The bends are unpredictable and alot of the time they don't line up the way they should and have to be rebent, something that I don't have the tools for. So rather than run the risk that I get it all undone and can't get it back together, I'm just going to bite the bullet and pay $200 - 250 in labor and be done with it. This will include 2 1/2 inch pipe, two cats and the two flowmaster, plus an x-pipe.

I heard what you had to say Russ but I was just uncomfortable with it.

Bob

 

[vmrod]

That is a very good price, and you will not have to sweat at all! I plan on mounting the sidepipes myself, but I'm not too sure how I will connect it together after that. I may hook up something temporarily, then drive to a shop and let them bend some pipe for me.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Good luck Vmrod. It's killing me to pay the money but I am concerned about not being able to get it back together. The muffler shop is 3 - 5 miles away through the center of the sleepy little town of old Norcross. I don't think I could sneak it through there.

I need to clarify. The $2 - 250 is for labor only. The parts with the pipe, 2 cats and mufflers and cross over is another $500 or so.

Bob

 

[vmrod]

Wow!, but you know as well as we all...if you get a vette with the intent to keep it nice, or make it like new again, then you will be spending quite a few bucks and spending lots of time. Once things are done right, then you have nothing left to do but enjoy them!

By the way...about my oil pressure sending unit...I got a tap & die set from my grandfather. Since the oil pressure sending unit is a little too big for the hole in the block, I plan on using a die on the sending unit and making it a little smaller. While I have the tap&die set, I'll also put a heli-coil in one of my water neck bolt holes.

I'm expecting some sway bar mounting hardware and a rubber dust boot w/clamp for my power steering control valve. This should be enough things to keep me busy through the next week.

It won't be long before I have to do the inevitable...drop the transmission and replace the front seal. :crazy

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Sounds like good progress. Your garage is like mine. Stacks of parts around it for the next project.

I don't know about you but it's difficult to repair any of the system, even when you are doing the work your self for much less than $300 - 500. When you pay someone the price doubles.

Bob

 

[77-4speed]

Well vmrod,

I have to apologize, I totally forgot to look at the washers last night. Instead I spent the night outside playing volleyball and drinking instead I will FOR SURE (if I don't forget again) look tonight!

As for your side pipes, did you get side-pipe headers or are you doing something with the stock manifold?

Russ

 

[vmrod]

I would love to have real sidepipes w/headers, but unfortunately, that is not in my current budget, especially considering the vast amount of work (and money) that my car requires. (You can check out the pics in the members gallery).

I saw some sidepipes in JC Whitney, which look like a real header/sidepipe system. However, only 1 of the 4 inlets (2") is real the other 3 are dummy pipes only for looks. I figure that if I put in an equalizer pipe, then I should get descent flow through the pipes. (The outlet and side pipes are 3 1/2", so it is only 2" for a little bit).

...and yes, stock manifold. The ram-horn. I think it is a 2" collector, but it may be 2 1/2". Never looked into it much.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I'm sticking with the stock ram horns as well, at least for now. I read somewhere that they have pretty good flow for stock and that unless you up the ponies substantially it does the job.

 

[77-4speed]

vmrod,

I've seen those side pipes before. A good alternative for the money. I'd be interested to see how you mount the H pipe (I assume it will be an H pipe since an X-pipe would be very difficult to mount)

Bob,

I've heard the same thing about the stock manifolds. Plenty of flow for semi-stock applications. Plus, you won't have the added heat of uncoated headers to contend with! Speaking of restricting flow, I have been told that you can add ~100 hp just by switching out to a different set of polished and ported heads. I think that this would probably be the best $600-$800 you could spend on the car.

Russ

 

[vmrod]

Yeah, I read the same thing somewhere too. Besides, that is something that can be done later down the road.

I've got a few engine mods already, but I'll just funnel my money into other areas that REALLY need it. Since I found this web-site, I have been really excited by the wealth of information and collected experience here. I am really trying to get my car on the road again, even if it is to take it around the block.

Take your time looking at the shock washers. If I have to change mine out, it will be so easy to do, and can be done anytime. However, I think that the flat ones that I used will be OK, I just need to add a pair of locknuts.

 

[vmrod]

Russ,

one idea I am toying with is to install a free flowing cat. right behind my stock 'Y'. (a cat with dual 2" outlets) The exhaust pipes would each have to make a 'U' turn towards the front of the car, then a 90 degree turn to the sidepipes. If I do this, I would not need an equalizer pipe, cuz the exhaust is already together with the stock 'Y' pipe.

Why do I put a cat? Well, if it is free-flowing then the only things I must contend with is extra heat and required space. But the cat will act like a splitter pipe for me, and it will also help my exhaust fumes/smell. Maybe I can put a heatshield around it or nearby it.

My other idea is to remove the 'Y' pipe and run true dual exhaust to the sidepipes. I would install a 'T' on each pipe and connect it.

I figure that since there're a few solutions, and I am flexible about the idea (oh yeah, I could also use flexible exhaust pipes!), then I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. (I could always re-install my original exhaust system too!, but I want sidepipe looks.)

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Vic,

I took a look at your pics in the members gallery. The picture of the rear suspension shows a lot of work. Did you go the POR15 route on the areas that are black?

Bob

 

[vmrod]

Bob,
I don't know what POR15 is. I removed my rear differential crossmember (replaced cushions). With my handy drill and several wirewheels, I stripped off all paint that I could. (Yes, even on the half-shafts and driveshaft.) It took several days to do it all. My biggest problem was either the road tar or some gooey undercoat on everthing. Since my transmission rear seal has been leaking for awhile, I also had a nice build-up of trans-fluid too. High temp black was painted and aluminum paint.

The trailing arms just had to be bolted on. (rebuilt by Bair's corvette and an excellent job too)

 

[Bob Chadwick]

POR15 is this messy paint used in marine applications that supposedly bonds with the rust to make all traces of it go away.

 

[77-4speed]

vmrod,

The free-flowing cat is a good solution. I don't know how restrictive they are though. Also, I would think that the T-connection would end up being a little less expensive. If you don't have to worry about emmisions I would say go without the cat.

Por-15 is a rust proofing paint that you can use to paint straight over rust and leave a very durable finish. Bob just did his (or is still doing ) and I am doing mine next week.

Russ

 

[vmrod]

I really don't have much of a rust problem. I just did it for looks. I wanted to do a frame-off retoration, but I had trouble renting a place to remove my body, plus I don't have a sand blaster for the frame.

I figure that I will do the best with what I have right now, then perhaps later I can yank the body, and clean up the frame and underside later.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Still doing mine Russ. Unfortunately it did not paint itself last week while I was in Jamaica.

Bob

 

[JohnZ]

By the way...about my oil pressure sending unit...I got a tap & die set from my grandfather. Since the oil pressure sending unit is a little too big for the hole in the block, I plan on using a die on the sending unit and making it a little smaller. While I have the tap&die set, I'll also put a heli-coil in one of my water neck bolt holes.

I'd be very cautious about "making the threads smaller" on the sending unit; it doesn't have much wall thickness, and if it fails, you'll have no oil pressure and oil all over the ground. Those are also NPT pipe threads, not machine threads. Why don't you just install it in the production location next to the distributor? If there's somethng else there already, just make up a tee arrangement to accommodate both of them.

 

[77-4speed]

vmrod,

I finally looked at the washers on the rear shocks and they are NOT cupped. They didn't look original though. They looked like they came with the NAPA shocks.

Just thought I'd let you know.

Russ

 

[vmrod]

Russ
...while you are down there....I just got my rear sway bar hardware in. I understand how the bracket bolts to the trailing arm, but there is a link which bolts to that bracket. The link has a bushing supplied with it. Am I supposed to press this bushing all the way inside the link? or only halfway?

My oil press sending unit idea failed. I was gonna use a die and re-thread my new sending unit to fit in the hole in the block by the oil filter. (It's a 1977 sending unit, but my engine block is from another chevy.) Unfortunately the threads on the die are not the same as the threads in the engine block. I'll just have to run down to the parts place and try to find a sending unit to fit the hole, then I have to hope that the sending unit will work with the gauges.

I had purchased a temp sending unit, and it fit in the proper hole, however the engine temp reads about 165 deg. when the engine is cold!

I have had nothing but problems with these 2 instruments! If the specs were supplied with them (resistance, port size, thread size...) it would be easy to find the right one.

UGGH!!!

(I did manage to rethread my stripped out water neck bolt with a bigger bolt. No more leaks there.)