Oil temp before nailing it?

[74bigblock]

So you must all have oil temp gauges then??


I don't. C3's weren't as fancyshmancy. I will get on it in any car after the coolant temp reaches at least 3/4 of the normal running temp. In my Corvette's case, this is at about 130-140 on the coolant temp. I figure the coolant has to be getting hotter for some reason!

Dave

 

[74bigblock]

So you must all have oil temp gauges then??

Dave

Anyone??

Anyone??

 

[froggy47]

Hi 74,


I'll post you back since I started this thread

My 96 & I guess going back a ways has reading for coolant temp & oil temp. You hit a button on the dash to cycle thru those & voltage (or all off I think might be an option)

Since oil temp lags behind coolant temp as they both warm up, I'd think you might want to wait a bit longer before you "nail it" on yours.

Of course once all your temps are up then oil runs hotter than coolant

If your coolant is 130-140 your oil is barely 100 degrees, that's not really warm enough to be flowing like it should for a redline run, don't you think?

Less you're kidding us?

 

[Vettefan87]

My vette with the 160 degree stat the thermo master chip, and the oil cooler the oil doesnt really get above 175 to often so around 160 is where I set the limit at I guess. coolant is usually around the same.

 

[74bigblock]

Hi 74,


I'll post you back since I started this thread

My 96 & I guess going back a ways has reading for coolant temp & oil temp. You hit a button on the dash to cycle thru those & voltage (or all off I think might be an option)

Since oil temp lags behind coolant temp as they both warm up, I'd think you might want to wait a bit longer before you "nail it" on yours.

Of course once all your temps are up then oil runs hotter than coolant

If your coolant is 130-140 your oil is barely 100 degrees, that's not really warm enough to be flowing like it should for a redline run, don't you think?

Less you're kidding us?

I'm not kidding. I don't have an oil guage, but I can tell you that in the time it takes to start the car (cold) back it out of the garage, put my car ramps down, and pull the car back up onto the ramps, the oil gets warm enough to be uncomfortable in tempurature to drain. I assume that by the time I've done a few miles with the motor under load... she's ready to go.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

It take my C5 about 15 minutes of driving before the oil temp gets to 185 degrees. The water temp gets hotter a lot faster than that.

 

[grumpyvette]

"What would be the best proceedure for those of us firing the engine for the first time in a non drivable chassis? Would we be better off waiting until we have the car roadworthy to fire the engine?"

first thing to keep in mind is you don,t want to overheat an engine, so letting a garden hose spray water thru the radiator to keep it cool is a good idea,and youll be fine running the engine that way rather than driving the car
next,
you should change the oil and filter in a new engine after the first few hours of run time to remove all the metallic dust the break in normally produces, and removing the cam lube and E.O.S. that may partially clog the oil filter
next
adding magnets to the oil pan TRAPS a huge percentage of the metalic dust durring a cams/rings seating/break-in

"Any source for the magnets Grumpy? "

http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0001

these are NOT REFRIGERATOR magnets "#0001" can pick up a SBC cylinderhead, and you wont beleive the amount of crud they remove from your oil and prevent from reaching the bearings
© 2003 ForceField
Email us
toll free (877)944-6247 or (970)484-7257
Also, you can visit us at our retail store in Fort Collins, Colorado, USA at 614 South Mason Street!
Ive been installing 4 of these lately in the corners of the oil pan sump,nothing magnetic (metallic dust from engine wear, assorted trash,etc.)can get past them, I also sometimes install one near the rear oil drain in each head to collect broken valve train shrapnel in case of a failure to limit damage on race engines. btw if you dont want to install them inside the sump you can J&B weld them to the outside of the oil pan permently or just place them there if you want them removable,TRUST ME THEY WON,T FALL OFF ON THIER OWN attached to the steel oil pan sump

NEXT
I normally pour it in just before starting the engines cam break in,procedure. because I want to make sure that nothing in the oil/E.O.S. mix can settle out from sitting over a long period of time. now if your running a flat tappet cam you should have also used a moly cam lube on the lobes and be useing a mineral base oil for the break-in procedure, and youll need to do an oil and filter change after about the first 3-4 hours running time to remove that moly cam lube from the engine after its served its purpose of protecting the cams lobes and lifters at start up, aND AS THE LOBES/LIFTERS LAPPED IN. MOSTLY to prevent that moly grease and E.O.S from potentially partially clogging the filter after that mix cools down,but also because both those lubes might leave deposites in the combustion chamber ,over time that might aggravate detonation.
even G.M. suggests that E.O.S. is not a great long term oil suppliment, and that its main function is to add extra oil film strength durring new engine break in.
1052367
ENGOILSUP
EOS - Engine Assembly Prelube<BR>Specifically formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. E.O.S. provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication

don,t forget a few magnets in the oil pan goes a long way towards trapping unwanted metalic dust formed from the cam and rings lapping in durring break-in that might otherwise get imbedded in your bearings or cause other problems
heres the magnets I use in every engine
http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0035

btw this may help

this chart (above)is COOLANT TEMP NOT OIL TEMP,OIL TEMP. SHOULD BE 20F-30F higher for IDEAL LUBRICATION
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

 

[hardnoks]

180

i was told by Greg Carroll,of Carroll supercharging,when i picked up my 95 after he did all my work to not get on it till 180 or above,and i've stuck w/that ever since.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks grumpyvette. More great advice as usual.

Tom

 

[grumpyvette]

glad to help out!

 

[Gary Melton]

Things(in technology) are different these days...

As a retired auto and aircraft gearhead, what can I say. In the past I broke-in my auto race engines before starting them up for the first time. The system of pulling the plugs, two teaspoons of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder & pully cranking the engine at 500 rpm's for one minute then 1000 r's for another 30 seconds to one minute is old chrome-ring technology. I don't race or build anymore so it's good to hear some thoughts about today's world of gear-heads.
Gary

Grumpyvette,

As usual you are a wealth of information. A question about the break-in procedure. After the 15 minute elevated rpm run-in you say to drive it around the block for 90 minutes and then bring it home and let it cool. What would be the best proceedure for those of us firing the engine for the first time in a non drivable chassis? Would we be better off waiting until we have the car roadworthy to fire the engine?

Tom

 

[grumpyvette]

theres not a single reason , you need to wait till its drivable, simply make sure the oil levels correct,the radiators full of coolant and the fan belts are tight, the ignition timings correct,the valves are correctly adjusted and have a fan blow on the radiator, and A GARDEN HOSE RUNNING SIGNIFCANT AMOUNTS OF WATER OVER/THRU the RADIATORS fins ,the combo will remove heat fast enought that the engines not going to overheat if its tuned correctly

 

[Galen]

Not sure why you guys have such hi heat in your oil. With synthetic and a clean cooler it should run no more than 10-20 degres more than the coolant unless you are running it hard. 150 is a good start. Do you think race engines get the oil that hot before they run. Heat will make it flow easier but even NASCAR uses light oil for qualifing.

 

[c4black92]

So oil temp of 200 (Mobile 1) and coolant temp of 197 on an LT1 is normal? good? or not hot enough? Where should the guage be reading at these conditions? In the middle of the guage?

 

[schmaltzr]

I don't get on it until I see it at least at 190. I also don't back out of the garage until the pressure stabilizes for about 10 seconds. I don't want to put any load on the bearings until I know they are well oiled.