Ok, heads done, now what did I forget? :)

[rrubel]

Spent the afternoon putting my new Pro Topline heads on. Now that they're on, I have the nagging suspicion that I forgot to do something. It's most likely just me (and my lack of confidence in my automotive skills), but just in case... here's what I did.

1. Used a gasket scraper (really a putty knife) to remove all traces of the old gasket.
2. Used an acetone-like substance to remove all traces of grease/oil/antifreeze from the block (heads are new, so I didn't do anything to them).
3. Chased the threads for all head bolts with a high-quality tap.
4. Vacuumed out any crud that was down in the cylinders, and wiped the bores with transmission fluid (the only thin oil I have). Found some extremely small scratches in a couple bores; can't do anything about it now.
5. Installed the new composite gasket, black-line-side towards the block.
6. Put the heads on the two studs.
7. Put a washer on each bolt (these are ARP; the washer is concave on one side - does it matter which way it faces? Directions didn't say and I figured they would if it did) and coated a couple threads with Permatex hi-temp teflon sealant.
8. Hand-tightened each bolt, then went around in the right sequence tightening them all to 45, 55, and 60 ft-lbs in turn. Before the final turn to 60, backed each bolt off and re-tightened, per ARP instructions.
9. Washed hands and had a beer.

Does this sound about right?
Thanks... Yes, I'm a nervous virgin - haven't done heads before on any vehicle.
[RICHR]

 

[Magmotor]

I just had my heads done and the mechanic insisted that I put in new head bolts. He refused to use the old ones. He speacializes in that area so didn't argue. Certaintly couldn't hurt. Said the new bolts didn't have to be 're-torque' after running for a while. For such a big job w/little expense I have a better piece of mind about the whole thing anyway. Just my .02.....

 

[vettepilot]

Spent the afternoon putting my new Pro Topline heads on. Now that they're on, I have the nagging suspicion that I forgot to do something. It's most likely just me (and my lack of confidence in my automotive skills), but just in case... here's what I did.

1. Used a gasket scraper (really a putty knife) to remove all traces of the old gasket.
2. Used an acetone-like substance to remove all traces of grease/oil/antifreeze from the block (heads are new, so I didn't do anything to them).
3. Chased the threads for all head bolts with a high-quality tap.
4. Vacuumed out any crud that was down in the cylinders, and wiped the bores with transmission fluid (the only thin oil I have). Found some extremely small scratches in a couple bores; can't do anything about it now.
5. Installed the new composite gasket, black-line-side towards the block.
6. Put the heads on the two studs.
7. Put a washer on each bolt (these are ARP; the washer is concave on one side - does it matter which way it faces? Directions didn't say and I figured they would if it did) and coated a couple threads with Permatex hi-temp teflon sealant.
8. Hand-tightened each bolt, then went around in the right sequence tightening them all to 45, 55, and 60 ft-lbs in turn. Before the final turn to 60, backed each bolt off and re-tightened, per ARP instructions.
9. Washed hands and had a beer.

Does this sound about right?
Thanks... Yes, I'm a nervous virgin - haven't done heads before on any vehicle.
[RICHR]

Sounds like you did everything correctly. This isn't rocket science, it's basic mechanics, and should be fun to do. I'm sure you're having a good time seeing your project come alive.
The only question I would raise is about the washers; most washers are designed to mate with the chamfer that is present just below the head of the bolt or screw, this provides for relief of strain against the bolt head when properly seated. If that bolthead chamfer is mated against a "square" surface such as the "wrong side" of the washer that creates a very small area pressure point that could be considered a potential strain point. You didn't say just how you installed the washers after you mentioned the taper. Depending on the design of the washer, and the bolts, there could be a correct and incorrect manner of installation. From your brief description of the washer(s), I would say that the taper you mentioned should be placed facing the bolt head when installed.
Other than that it sounds like you did good.... and that beer was well deserved.

vettepilot

 

[rrubel]

Magmotor, did use new bolts... old were GM, new are ARP. The Haynes manual said I could re-use, but I just didn't want to risk it.

Vettepilot, I put the concave side of the washer against the head of the bolt and the flat side of the washer against the head. I did not SEE any ridge or anything on the head, and the washer sat flush either way, but I decided to put them facing out. My only real thought was that on non-alloy wheels, the indentation on the wheel meets with the convex part of the nut to center the wheel in the hole.

Thanks for the double-check, guys. Next I finish reinstalling the radiator, drop the oil pan to put the timing cover on, put the water pump on, and then work on the intake. Still a ways to go...

[RICHR]

 

[vettepilot]

Ya did good... you deseve another beer...

vettepilot

 

[corvette66]

.....

Sounds like a job well done, or soon to be.

The only thing that i would consider doing, if you have the motivation and time. Re-torque the bolts. Some head gasket sets like MR GASKET say that its not needed. but, it is always needed. the heads and bolts get hot and expand a little bit. after about 100-200 miles , i would re-tighten them. Thats just me. Reason being...... you have expensive heads. I just did the head gaskets on my 86 back in october. It was just a temporary fix for the time being. The motor is coming out in another few weeks again for a new one. So i didn't re-torque. Bu thats up to you. Prolly no big deal anyway.

beer time

 

[thirdtimevetteowner]

I was told, by a machinist, that you should put a few drops of oil on the washers (under the boltheads), to get the proper torque. Doing it completely dry increases friction proportionally, which in turn reduces the amount of torque actually applied, also proportionally. It may seem a moot point, but then again, 65 ft./lbs. or 55-60ft./lbs. are not the same, and Chevy dictates the torque for a reason. Just my $.02

 

[Edmond]

Rich,

I see one problem:

You only had 1 beer?

You're putting the Super Ram on, right? How long will that take you?

 

[rrubel]

Heh. This is *last year's* thread... I've since done and undone a ton more work and it's still not running perfectly.

The latest is that there's still a vac leak at the #8 vac port on the manifold; this, of COURSE, necessitates taking the whole mess apart again. I've given up and taken it to my mechanic, who's going to slowly put it all back together, testing for leaks as he goes. And after that I'm going to hopefully never open the engine again.
[RICHR]