Ok Keyless entry / alarm help needed

[jackyl]

Ok, I'm in need of info on installing car alarms/keyless entry etc.. I'm trying to finish up the Vette and I still have no power to the ignition so, I need to put the auto page back in that was in before. Problem is, I have no idea what wire is what. Anyone able to point me to a site that may have info like this?? Thanks
BTW this is what I'm fixing for those of you that don't know :L this was a year ago...

 

[Corvette-Pilot]

Can't help on this one but just had to say

OUCH :blow

 

[vette-dude]

I have a Burning desire to help you but really don't have the answer you need.

Randy

PS: Just couldn't resist after seeing the pic.

 

[jackyl]

Yeah driving the Vette and having the dash blow up was a riot!!:eyerole

 

[vette-dude]

What caused this to happen? Did you have a short? I had a short in the tailight assy in my 62 vette and when I came to a stop on a hill ( car was a four speed) the under dash wiring began to smolder and it caught fire. Dash looked alot like yours. You're right it wasn't funny and scared the be-jesus out of me. Luckily I had just moved the batt to the trunk and was able to get the pos term disconnected and the guy behind me had a fire extingushir and we got it out before the car was damaged too bad. I can laugh about it now ( 30 years later) but it sure wasn't funny at the time. I do have a friend that has a 88 vette that he tried to fly over a road barrier ( didn't make it) and if I knew what you are looking for I could go over and see how it all goes together. The car is a total and if it is a part you need I might be able to talk him out of it. Let me know and let's get yours looking goood again!!

Randy

 

[vigman]

WOW

What a mess! WHAT HAPPENED?????

I can help... are you electrically inclined?

Can you read a schematic?


I have the FULL 88 shop manual ( Including electrical )

Let me know WHERE you want to start?

I assume you will strip the orig wiring harness out, or at least remove it for inspection.



Vig!

 

[vigman]

Oh yeah

I might have some of the parts ( Like the DIC panel & switches) and the A/C controller.


I'm still staring at the dammage!

So sad



Vig!

 

[jackyl]

Randy, the info center shorted out, and melted. It sucked big time!!! This actually happened about a year ago.

Vig, I have a new harness in, and have a complete dash to reinstall... problem is where I am now I have power to the lights, blinkers etc. But turn the key, and no dice. The car had an aftermarket keyless entry along withe vats, so I'm assuming that since it's particially installed that's the problem with the ignition. Any other help you guys have would be GREAT!!

 

[vette-dude]

Do you have a wiring diagram? Do you have power at the switch? I assume you have checked that. I would try and wire the car exactly per the diagram and take the aftermarket VATS out of the system. Once you have "rung out" the wiring (Checked all power leads for volts) then the car should start. If not then one of the fusible links might have burn out because of the DIC going to h***. You could trace power from the batt to the ignition switch which should be a rect. looking plastic thingy attached to the steering column under the dash (I think). If there is no power there then it is on the Batt side of the switch. if there is power then check again in the start key position. I there is power then it do same check at starter solenoid. Electrical stuff is definitely a pain but if you follow the schematic it makes sense. Vig has the schematic and I'm sure he can get it to you if you don't already have it. I think the big thing is to wire the car as stock and eliminate the aftermarket VATS. I assume this is an automatic car and you don't have the clutch safety switch. It might be also the nuetral safety switch if it is an automatic. I susapect the fusible links or the ignition switch itself but hard to say for sure.

Randy

 

[jackyl]

You're right, it is an auto. I'll test all of the things you mentioned. No, I don't have the Schematic. When I removed the old harness I labeled every connection, then marked the new harness the same as the old. So pluging everything back in was just a matter of "A into A" B into B" etc. I pulled out all of the aftermarket stuff lastnight as well. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll let ya know what I find out!!

Jeff

 

[vigman]

Ok a couple of things here More VATS 88

Does the dash light up?

You just get a NO CRANK condition right?


Did you use the OLD VATS module, or a new one that came with the COMPLETE DASH?

( I assume you bought the whole thing from a wrecking yard)

Can you describe ( wires, colors & location ) of where the OLD alarm was spliced in?

Here's a guess, if you used a different VATS module.. you have a 1 in 16 chance that the resistor chip is the same value as you old one.

Now the cars an AUTO so we can do a simple test...In your year.. the VATS only disabled the starter line & the fuel pump crank enable line ( the prime the pump as you start).. we'll come back to that later.

To bypass the vats ( for the starter )

Behind the DIC is the starter enable relay.

There is a BIG yellow Pin C & BIG dark green Pin B...

Get a test light see if the yellow heats up when you put the key in the start position, jump those two and see if the car cranks...just bilp the key. If that dosent get it.. the next HIGH CURRENT connection is the Park Neutral saftey switch located under the center console.

BIG Dark green /white coming in.. Big purple coming out.. Put a test light on the purple.. ( with the yellow & dark green jumped) and see if the purple heats up.. if it does .. but the starter does NOT spin.. gotta check the firewall connections.


Head hurt yet?!


Vig!

Let me know


Vig!

 

[jackyl]

I pulled all the electronics off of the 88 that weren't burned. All of the vats parts that I can find relay etc, are from the 88. What does the actual VATS Module look like, or # off it, and I'll be able to tell which it's from, the 88 or new 89 harness. I get a NO NOTHING condition. The dash lights etc do not light up. NOTHING that requires the car to be on. So you turn the key and it's like a dead battery. However the headlights/tail lights, brake lights, blinkers etc work.

 

[vigman]

First things first.. ( fusible links )

On the 88.. there is a wire which goes directly to the battery to the Jump start junction block. 2 mm wire


It's a black plastic connection point with a stud in the center and a gaggle of red wires coming out. Get a test light.. make sure the studs HOT.

It's location
Left hand of engine compartment rear behind battery.

Next we have to locate fusible link "A"
power feed to key switch.

When you look at the Jump start block, there is the wiring harness going DIRECTLY to the firewall bulk head connector.

There are 4 red wires coming from the jump start block into that harness in a single group ( not taped ).

Those are links A,B,C & M.

Link 101

The link has a red wire coming into a round tubular black moulded bit of hard rubber.. then a short bit of wire ( the actual "link")... and a splice, which on the otherside should be whatever color the wiring diagran calls out ( In this case RED )

The LINK part is the flexy wire inbetween, and is intended to be 4 wire gauges SMALLER then the circut it's protecting.

The actual fuse value of the link is a mystery BUT in a 93 in the same circut it's two 60 amp fuses feeding that same point!

Get a test light with a sharp pointy bit on the end ( make sure you have a good ground) and check that BOTH sides of the actual wire ( Red from the lug and red AFTER the link splice) are HOT by jabbing through the insulation of the wire itself.

Betting the one that's OPEN is "A"

PHEW

VATS decoder location
Behind right side of Instrument panel near fuse block ( Behind the BREAD LOAF.. pass dash padding)




Vig!

 

[vigman]

Vats module on an 88

http://corvetteobsession.homestead.com/files/interior/031902/ECM-1.jpg

Gold bracket...BINGO!

Pix courtesy of KEN!


Vig!

 

[-=Jeff=-]

I can also vouch that the 89 Harness came orut a perfectly good running car. The owner (me) decided he wanted the 1991 dash in his 89 instead :crazy

 

[vigman]

So Jeff.. did he just get the harness

OR the entire dash off of you?

Vig!

 

[-=Jeff=-]

Just the harness..

I think he got everything else locally..

 

[jackyl]

Just the harness..

I think he got everything else locally..

Yup, I got the dash and eveything e;se for $300 from C5 West.

 

[vigman]

So here's the burning question

2 problems as I see it now


1) The no power to the ign switch ( betting bad fusible link "A")

2) The NEW Vats module is installed... rendering you OLD key invalid.

2 fixes here
a) Use OLD vats module if not to crispy

b) We discuss the how to fool the vats thing ( either bypass it or figgure out the correct resistor.)

We need to get power up to the dash first!!!


Vig!

 

[jackyl]

Ok........... I have 3 Vats modules. The one that was in the car originally is a little crispy on the outside, but the internals look ok, So I may try it in a different housing and see if it's ok. How would I test the other 2 to see what the resitor code id for them? Or by pass the whole thing all together and not use one at all. Then I can go strictly to an aftermarket system, or back to a VATS after the powers all normal again.