One Wire....???? What's the Skinny...???

[Viet Nam Vett]

Ordered a March Pulley set up for the 502. Since my car was a SB the Alternator wireing is on the Passengerside. The new set up locates the alternator on the driver side. So I ordered a nice Chrome One Wire Alternator.

Now just to be sure here .... and please correct me if I'm wrong ... All I have to do is run a heavy Wire from the Alternator to the battery positive..and of course make sure I have the Alternator Grounded correctly to the motor as well as the motor grounded to the frame ..etc.

This alternator is self energizing so it doesn't require field excitation. So....this means that the external voltage regulator will not be used as the new alternator contains a voltage regulator. I just have to make sure that the horn relay and the original circuit is fead as if the Alternator was still tied to the location.

Has anyone hooked a one wire set up like this in there Mid Year???

I did do a search on this topic..but didn't find anything.
Comments and advice Please........

 

[Mac]

Here's a quick guide which I cut & pasted. I'm guessing you don't want to retain the "external regulator" look but the guide was there so I thought I'd leave it in. I guess the "one wire" thing is a bit of a misnomer since you need two wires- the battery cable and one wire going to a switched 12 source.

When I converted my wife's Jeep to EFI, I had to add a diode to the alternator harness to protect the computer. Luckily, the local auto-electric had everything I needed.

-Mac


Easy Way

• The battery cable goes to the BAT post on the new alternator.
• Terminal #1 goes to a switched 12-volt source. A cheap-n-dirty way to accompish this AND to retain operation of the charge light is to run a wire from the #1 terminal of the new alternator to the #4 position of the harness connector on the old external regulator.
• MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE REGULATOR!
• Terminal #2 goes to the battery. Easiest hookup is to jump it directly to the BAT terminal of the alternator.This is the easy-but-ugly way to do the conversion.

Another Easy Way

I found the ultimate and easiest way you can convert your external regulated alternator to an internal model. YEAR ONE sells a plug in conversion kit (Part No. HU30 $13.50). It contains a plug in harness for the external regulator and a plug in adapter from external regulated alternator to an internal regulated alternator. NO WIRES TO CUT. No rocket science involved.

Fancy Way

OK, you said you wanted to retain the external regulator look. No problem!

First, remove the old (or use a spare for practice) regulator from the car. Remove the cover plate. Here's your goal:

• Jumper terminal F and terminal 3 together.
• Jumper terminal 2 and terminal 4 together.

Make sure they do not ground anywhere, or are connected in any way.
Make sure to cut the resistors off the back of the regulator!
Check and double check that these are the only connections made!

On The Alternator

Step 1: Remove the wires from the plug connector on the 10/12SI unit. This can be done with a pin or small screwdriver to relase the tab that hold the connectors in the plastic shell. If you want to cheat, just cut the wires off the old connector and replace "splice" for "insert" in steps 2 and 3 below.

Step 2: Remove the wire from the old alternator connector that went to the F terminal. It should (usually?) be BLUE or GREEN. Insert this wire in the new connector so it connects to the #2 terminal of the new alternator.

Step 3: Repeat step 2 for the other wire; the wire for the old R terminal goes to the #1 terminal on the 10/12SI unit. This is usually a WHITE wire.

You may find that the old terminals are corroded or burned. Now's a darn good time to replace them.


Checkout


Fire up the car. The alternator should start charging immediately if you've hooked up everything correctly. If it does not, here's my checklist, in order:

1. Connector on the new alternator is secure *AND* making good contact. If you used your old terminals then this is probably the bad point.
2. Check for +12 volts at terminal #2 and BAT with the ignition OFF.
3. Check that the generator light works.
4. Check for +12 at both terminals on the harness with the harness disconnected from the regulator.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Thanks Mac,
That's allot of typing . Good info ther. One question...I was under the impression that the so called "One Wire " Alternator is self exciting and there is only one connection ..the Battery terminal. There is no other connector on the unit.

I'll zoom around the web and take a look again.

Thanks...

 

[Mac]

There isn't a place for a plug on the side, separate from the large guage battery cable on the back?

-Mac

ps: there's room here for a joke about being self-exciting by pulling the wire but I ain't going there!!

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Some of the one wire units have the plug on the side as well. I bought a Powermaster that has it and use it so my idiot light will work.

If I understand your question correctly, you are trying to figure out how to install the larger charge wire. I have asked and gotten it down to three potential connections points; the battery positive terminal, the positive connection to the starter and the horn relay.

I looked in the wiring circuit for my 77 and, if I recall correctly, the wire seemed to run to the starter but I can't represent that I understood it all that well and didn't have a chance to study it.

The ground circuit is now part of the case rather than requiring a ground wire.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

There isn't a place for a plug on the side, separate from the large guage battery cable on the back?

-Mac

ps: there's room here for a joke about being self-exciting by pulling the wire but I ain't going there!!

Thanks Bob & Mac

Now take some time and read this and give me your opinion... Kinda clears things up a little...

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I didn't have time to study it but had read it before making my alternator decision. It was one of the factors that made me go with the one wire Powermaster that would accept the plug as well.

 

[Mac]

So it's better to pull three wires rather than one? :ugh :L

-Mac

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

I didn't have time to study it but had read it before making my alternator decision. It was one of the factors that made me go with the one wire Powermaster that would accept the plug as well.

I spent 1 1/2 Hours reading all that pertained to 3 wire and 1 wire. Finding out that 3 wire is the best way to go. Also what I have to do to rewire my system and wire correctly for power distibution and ..as a bonus..finding out How to make my headlights brighter do to the Generals 1960's wire design. And Improve the interior lighting as well as the acc equipment performance.

The guy " Mark Hamilton" who wrote all the info knows his stuff. Any one reading this post who wants to improve there Vette's electrical sytem ...go here and start reading...

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Definitely a good read.

So it's better to pull three wires rather than one? :ugh :L

-Mac

Based on what this guy says, yes.

 

[stepinwolf]

Viet Nam Vett,
I am also considering the purchase of a complete March serpentine pully system, and would appreaciate what ever feedback you would be willing to send me. The March people recommended their kit # 25011 for my 502 Ram jet in a 66-67 Vette
regards
Bob

 

[00fxd]

You one wire alternator should have your 10guage [red] lead from the stud on the alt to the pos [large] stud on the starter solenoid. That's it. No key or interuption required. On my '65 the 10guage does actually run through the horn relay to the starter but it is the same end result. The pos cable from your batt should also go the same stud on the starter solenoid.
It doesn't hurt to have a fusible link at the starter from the alt.

 

[00fxd]

I clicked on and read the "mad" site and granted the guy knows his stuff. But I think he is exagerating some issues. He is not selling alts but he is selling harnesses. Altho I am no expert I do have reservations about the one wire systems. I have never seen the need for a 100amp alt and I am sure it would charge the **** out of a low batt and boil it but it's not like that happens all the time. But if you have a big stereo and a/c you may want one. As we know, it's all a trade off. For years on many vehicles I have built and also on my tractor [1940 ford 9n snow pusher], I use a 3 wire 10 si. [10/12si's are internally regulated]. To excite the reg I use a short jumper from the big pos stud to the furthest male spade on the reg [the 2 terminals for the plug on the alt]. Hot all the time. Some may say that is a bubba look but it works fine and is simple. The 3rd wire may be for a light, I wouldn't know, don't have nuthin' with a charging light. Addressing voltage drop, he even mentions that the resistance is not measurable with an ohm meter. Not a big deal but you should use a minimum 10 guage power lead with todays charging systems.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Viet Nam Vett,
I am also considering the purchase of a complete March serpentine pully system, and would appreaciate what ever feedback you would be willing to send me. The March people recommended their kit # 25011 for my 502 Ram jet in a 66-67 Vette
regards
Bob

On my way out the door to work... I'll get back to you as they say....:L

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Viet Nam Vett,
I am also considering the purchase of a complete March serpentine pully system, and would appreaciate what ever feedback you would be willing to send me. The March people recommended their kit # 25011 for my 502 Ram jet in a 66-67 Vette
regards
Bob

Heh Bob,
I'm at work now ..so I have some time to answer the above.

I went with the March #20540. This kit just has the Alternator Bracket ,WP..Pulley... and Crank Pulley. The kit you ordered has the..AC Set Up.

Since I don't have AC.. I don't require that kit. It's probably the same kit with the Alternator on the driver side. This means I'll have to rewire my charging system set up. But I think this will be an improvement over the stock set up using "Mad Electrical's" Wireing Remote Sensing 3 wire Alternator set up.

I assume your original alternator wiring is on the driver side...If not you will be facing the same rewiring that I have to do.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire3.shtml

The above is page two...

Rich has told me that he has been speaking with you about your project. He's been helping me also with little tid bits here and their. If you need any info from me drop me a line.

 

[stepinwolf]

Follow-up

Thank's for the link VNV, My worries were regarding the needed clearence between the block, and the radiator to install, Alt, A/C, ect. I am using the BB radiator with the twin fans from DeWitts, so there should be more room to squeeze in the accessories. There is nothing between the frame rails as yet, so there is no way an meaningful measurements can be taken.

Rich has also been a great help to me, and I am looking forward to meeting up with him at the up-coming " Super Chevy " show in NH. Speak later,,,

regards
Bob


Drive your Corvettes, as if every day was your last.

 

[bossvette]

I have been running a 1 wire 80 amp on my 76 since '99 with no problems, I also use a ford solenoid on the firewall (ala the hot start kit sold by the parts houses). A 10 gage to the Battery terminal from the Alt does the trick.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Thank's for the link VNV, My worries were regarding the needed clearence between the block, and the radiator to install, Alt, A/C, ect. I am using the BB radiator with the twin fans from DeWitts, so there should be more room to squeeze in the accessories. There is nothing between the frame rails as yet, so there is no way an meaningful measurements can be taken.

Rich has also been a great help to me, and I am looking forward to meeting up with him at the up-coming " Super Chevy " show in NH. Speak later,,,

regards
Bob


Drive your Corvettes, as if every day was your last.

Same Here Bob,
The Dewitts set up is the Best..!! 67 Heaven is also using the same set up I think as well as Rich.

 

[67HEAVEN]

The Dewitts set up is the Best..!!

Ditto. The cooling capabilities of this setup is amazing. I now have zero worries about overheating. I also have room now for the VB&P spreader bar between the shock towers.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

I also have room now for the VB&P spreader bar between the shock towers.

Yep....Just find as many nooks and crannies and places to jam as many extra items you can into your Vette...... :L


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