Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

Orange Vs. Green Coolant

Joined
Jun 20, 2002
Messages
2,510
Location
Tallahassee, FL
Corvette
none right now :(
Anyone out there have experience with both the regular green coolant and the new Dexcool orange stuff? I had a 93 LT1 6 speed with the green and a 160 degree thermostat, and it ran a little under 180 with the AC off, and about 185 with the AC on. My 96 LT4 6 speed has the orange stuff, I put in a new 160 degree thermostat, and it runs over 190 with the AC on, and high 180's with it off... does the regular green coolant run better? Is there something else I should look at in my cooling system? This is the first car I have owned with the orange coolant so I am not familiar with it's cooling capabilties.
 
Coolant

The standard green coolant and DexCool are both ethylene-glycol based products. The green coolant has a silicate based corrosion inhibitor and DexCool has an organic acid based corrosion
inhibitor. The silicates in the green coolant get depleted over time and the corrosion protection diminishes dramatically. That is why it needs frequent replacement. The DexCool lasts is suppose to last 5 years/ 100,000 miles (compared to 2-3 for the green) due to the different chemistry in the corrosion inhibitor.
Problems with green coolant prompted the use of DexCool from the factory as well as the long term corrosion protection compared to the green coolant.
Dexcool is suppose to remove the heat from the engine better than the green coolant, which may explain why its temp is higher than the green coolant.
Some mechanics may tell you to switch back to the green coolant. However, you system is designed to run with Dexcool. There have been numerous problems with Dexcool. The previous owner of my 96 LT4 had the system flushed and the water pump replaced at only 24,000 miles. What to really do? Hell if I know. I only know what i have discovered on the internet.

Finally, I run at about 195 to 230* temps in my LT4. I plan on switching the thermostat and reprogramming the fans to turn on earlier. Coupled with a TB bypass, temps should run lower.
 
Thanks for the information... I am thinking about flushing the system on my car, and adding Red Line's water wetter or 40 Below... anyone use either of them with good (or bad) results?
 
All Corvettes 1996 and newer require DexCool and have DexCool as factory fill.
 
I have the dexcool already, I just was wondering if anyone had any luck with the coolant additives... redline's water wetter or 40 below... thanks
 
Vetelt193, there has been extensive arguments/discussions on the Redline Water Wetter issue.

Just do a search a see for yourself......very interesting reading!
 
I have used it in the past on a couple cars.

I had it in the vette last summer when I went through Nevada. Vegas and on the way to CA it was 115* out. I was running 200-205* without and with A/C respectively. Oh yeah, my water pump was going out at the same time, so factor a loss of efficiency.

I have had positive results in other cars, but nothing earth-shattering.
 
There was a great article in Car and Driver about a month ago on the different types of coolant and what they did for you. Apparently the best one to buy is what the long-haul truckers use - Zerex Extended-Life. 500000 mile (yes, half-a-million) life on the additive package, then you dump in an extender (more additives) and you're good for another 500k miles (which is what, maybe a year for a truck?). However, this stuff is not easy for you or I to come by and it hasn't been 100% certified for use in passenger cars yet.

Regarding Water Wetter, I ran straight water plus a bottle of the stuff (since it also contains corrosion inhibitors) in my old turbo Subaru when the radiator was getting clogged and it stayed VERY cool (no digital temp gauge, but noticeably lower on the dial). Where the car would overheat on trips before this, it kept below the halfway mark (normal) afterwards.
[RICHR]
 
Did you properly burp the system after refilling? It could be running low on coolant causing the higher temps. LT engines have a reverse flow cooling system. It has to burped when doing coolant service. I think the you purge the air at at the throttle body, and at the coolant line. Both points should be bled of air. Maybe you know this already?
 
The system has been properly burped (did it when I put in the new 160 degree stat), but I haven't flushed it yet (I am 99% sure the previous owner had Chevy do it)... even though it has been done, I am getting a rust orange color in the system, so I want to do it again... Of course, My parents used to have a service company with 1996 S-10's, and all three of those had the dex cool, and the coolant turned rust colored after a year or so... I am assuming this is normal, but who knows... life seemed easier with the green stuff:)
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom