Oxygen sensor installation

[MaineShark]

Does anyone know of any nice adapter kits, for installing the O2 sensor? All the local guys can seem to come up with is buying a nut with the correct thread, and welding it into the side of the pipe. Is this really the best way to do it, or is there a better way?

I have a stainless exhaust (or, I will, once I get it installed), so the hardware needs to match.

Also, any idea what a reasonable amount to pay for the welding is? This guy wants $50, plus parts.

And, just brainstorming, but has anyone installed two sensors (one in each side), so that one can connect to the ECM, and the other to an A/F meter?

Joe

 

[patsnitrovette]

I used a bolt that i cut in half and welded it myself to the header,they have oxygen sensor bungs for sale i think like 5 bucks or so but all it is a metal nut your welding in,50 to weld it,i cant see why it takes 2 minutes to do.

 

[phoenix73]

I got the sensor bung for 5$. I'm bringing it to a local friend who said that it would take 5 minutes (but we have to drill through the ceramic coated header first)

 

[sscam69]

Joe

Got to any exhaust shop and they should have O2 bungs to weld.

Just be careful about taking your car in. I needed a new exhaust but nobody, at least the big name shops, wouldn't alter it beyond factory specs. I eventually had to take it to a small shop out in an industrial area of town. Ya know, to one of those guys who doesn't care about SMOG regulations.

Even he asked if it had a CAT and I told him thats the way I got the car, even though you could see the head shield for the CAT. Whoever had it before removed it.

Mock up the exhaust so you know exactly where you want it and then take the piece you want it on to the shop and have them weld it. Shouldn't give you a hard time if you do it that way.

Just my .02

Frank

 

[WayneLBurnham]

In fact I need to run the wire to my right side one today

I only put one on for the A/F meter, then I decided I should have one on both sides and an AB switch, especially since I have an Edelbrock AFB type carb and Performer intake with divided side-to-side chambers. Until I had a cross-over added, I had NO input from the right side of the engine, and those carbs are set side-to-side, not front-to-back.

The guys at the muffler shop just scavenged a bung off of a cut off exhaust pipe and charged me $3 to weld it on. Have them put it as far forward as possible, preferrably on the header secondary rather than the exhaust, although make it at least a couple or three primary diameters past where the primaries join to make sure you've got a good sampling. (Make sure you'll be able to remove starters and such easily....)

$50 is obscene! Those bungs are cast iron and so will never perfectly match SS. The best they'll be able to do is use some high-nickel electrode or wire or some weird high temp silver solder. Personally, I'd just have it conventionally welded. SS and cast weld up fine with a regular torch, although that spot will :eek rust a little, like any exhaust component. What you want to avoid is any leaks, which is more likely with MIG or TIG welded exhaust assembly.

I need to run the new wire I ran off of my new right one through the firewall and get a switch now that you've reminded me....I had the second one put on there a month ago...

People forget the REAL good thing about a nice A/F meter: it gives you a COOL gauge that MOVES ALL THE TIME!!! Those little yellow and green "pegs" ROCK!!! Sometimes I stop watching the road and just stare down at the friendly little dots... :crazy

 

[MaineShark]

Okay, so $50 is way off. I guess I'll keep asking around, and try to find someone who is a bit more reasonable.

Joe