Parking brake engagement point

[miskowitch]

I have a 2001 6 speed coupe. When I engage the parking brake I have to make sure I pull it to the final click, otherwise it does not hold the car back on a hill. I leave it in reverse as well as an additional precaution. I purchased the car 3 months ago, so I'm not sure what it was like when it was new.

Is my parking brake adjusted correctly, or should I get it adjusted?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,
Normally, midway through the travel of the ebrake travel, it will hold the car.
If you are going all the way to the top, there should be an adjustment performed on the ebrake shoes in the rear.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[DHoskins]

I tried the 'autoadjust' procedure as described by Evil-Twin in the tech section (link below), this helped some but is still not great. My local dealer said the console must be removed to fix the problem?! I'm looking for a new specialist in Harrisburg, Pa. Too bad you're so far north.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/techtips/viewsubtopic.php?SubTopicID=158&TopicID=1

 

[miskowitch]

Thanks. Normally I enjoy driving my car forward. But tonight I'll try some backward driving. I thought the emergency brake was supposed to autoadjust when the car goes backwards. Thanks for the tip on the good article.

Rob

 

[atmmac]

I had the dealer adjust mine. Just letting you know it cost me 200 dollars. They had to remove the rear brakes.

 

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,
You do NOT have to remove the console. There is NO adjustment there. The ebrake lever has a engagement pawl, but NOT an adjustment because it is spring loaded.
The adjustment is under the rear brake rotor.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[DHoskins]

HI there,
You do NOT have to remove the console. There is NO adjustment there. The ebrake lever has a engagement pawl, but NOT an adjustment because it is spring loaded.
The adjustment is under the rear brake rotor.
Allthebest, c4c5

Thanks, I had the sense that removing the console was not right especially when the service manager told me it would take about 1-1/2 hours. That's when I checked the linkage and found you are right. I then found the adjustment procedure in the Tech section. I'm not happy with the service at this dealer although I've only been in 3 or 4 times for oil change and state inspection. They always seem to avoid the problems I talk about. Nothing major just 1 tire monitor, park brake, door fob problems and the recall for the seat belt. I just don't feel comfortable with the run around. The remark about removing the console followed a trip where they replaced both rear tires at 22,000 miles. When I checked the tire pressure next morning with a digital gauge I found 45 pounds in each tire. I'm not even sure they understand the proper way to drain the oil. OK I'm finished venting! As I said I wish I could find someone like "c4c5specialist" here in my area. But this site IS a fantastic resource for info and helpful fellow enthusiasts.

 

[miskowitch]

Well it might just be a placebo, but I tried the autoadjust technique. The brake seems to engage sooner now. I should have marked the old position before doing the adjustment. But it does seem better now. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Pegasus]

HI there,
You do NOT have to remove the console. There is NO adjustment there. The ebrake lever has a engagement pawl, but NOT an adjustment because it is spring loaded.
The adjustment is under the rear brake rotor.
Allthebest, c4c5

True story Paul! I've done mine before. I believe I've seen a spec calling for the brake to be "all in" at 11 clicks. In other words, 11 clicks after pulling up should have the p/b fully applied. This is about half of the total travel I think. HTH

Robert

 

[VETTEX2]

I had the dealer adjust mine. Just letting you know it cost me 200 dollars. They had to remove the rear brakes.

200 bucks ?
you got ripped. Max time to do is 30 minutes to pull the tires and caliper mounts and then adjust them. 45 minutes if you don't have a lift.

 

[baxblue]

Pull the parkiing brake and - - Nothing

Found this post through the search and hope someone can help. I got in my 2001 C5 (6-spd) the other day, pulled out of the garage and stopped to close the door... when I tried to pull the parking brake it would not engage. There was zero tension on the handle. I pumped the handle a few more times and it finally caught. This is now happening intermittently... almost as if the cable is not moving. I have btw, had a similar issue in the past to another post where the brake must be pulled all the way to the top and only then barely held the car. Do not know if the two are related but would appreciate any insight. I have a jack at home and wonder if this can be easily fixed at home?

 

[curtbriggs]

I had to pull my rear rotors and it took 55 clicks on each star wheel. From Evil Twins thread, I may have been able to accomplish the same thing by a series of parking brake applications while going backwards to get the e-brake lever back to the 40 to 55 degree position where the auto adjustor will start to work again.

 

[Gdad45]

Which Procedure to adjust?

I too have the problem of having to pull the park brake handle ALL THE WAY UP or the car rolls away.

I tried the backing up method, but the left rear clangs loudly and locks up. Something bad going on in there.

So,
Since the rear rotors are worn horribly I'll check the parking brake shoes when I have the rotors off for replacement.

I'll let you know. (whenever the temp outside goes up beyond "way too cold".

 

[Gdad45]

Parking Brake NOW works just fine

Since the car was up on jack stands to bleed the clutch I snatched off the rear wheels to check and adjust the Parking Brake.
Pulling off the disks revealed much grime and debris on the shoes and adjustment wheel. Some cleaning and turning out the adjustment wheel until the disk just barely cleared the shoes did the trick. Handle now goes up halfway and holds fine.